Door Weatherstrip (another thread)
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Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,660
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From: DFW
Door Weatherstrip (another thread)
I did not want to hijack 65Tuxedo's similar thread.. so here goes.
My car is nearly done at the paint shop (66 Coupe). I visited today and reviewed it with the shop manager. They have the new weatherstrip (Corvette Rubber from LICS) glued on the doors, and are fitting the hinges and the latch.
It is clear that once fitted, the doors will be very hard to close. I'd expected a little push out at the top until the rubber set, but not this tight a fit otherwise.
Any words from the wise on what to do until the weatherstrip "takes a set"?
Harry
My car is nearly done at the paint shop (66 Coupe). I visited today and reviewed it with the shop manager. They have the new weatherstrip (Corvette Rubber from LICS) glued on the doors, and are fitting the hinges and the latch.
It is clear that once fitted, the doors will be very hard to close. I'd expected a little push out at the top until the rubber set, but not this tight a fit otherwise.
Any words from the wise on what to do until the weatherstrip "takes a set"?
Harry
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 6,005
Likes: 1,510
From: Prescott Arizona
I've always left the door weatherstrip installation as the last part of working on the doors since it interferes so much with trying to get the Coupe door adjusted to the body. I finished up the drivers door on my 66 Coupe just a month ago and while there's a little bit less 'push-back' from the new w-strip now, it's still substantial.
Last edited by Vet65te; Apr 21, 2008 at 04:35 PM.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2003
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From: Central Arkansas
Does this weatherstrip have the molded in upper, rear corner? I know this helps somewhat with the fit (that may be all that is sold now). I found that I had to adjust my striker out some to the point where the doors would close without having to use undue effort. Then, over the course of about a year or maybe two, I periodically moved the striker in a little more as the rubber got seated in. It took awhile but they finally seated in fine and close properly. I once had a car in the early 80s with the oversize, hard replacement door weatherstriping and the doors had to be slammed so hard to latch that it eventually stress cracked the paint around the handles. For this reason an easy touch and giving it some time is worthwhile.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,345
Likes: 87
From: Northern MN
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15-'16-'17
I did not want to hijack 65Tuxedo's similar thread.. so here goes.
My car is nearly done at the paint shop (66 Coupe). I visited today and reviewed it with the shop manager. They have the new weatherstrip (Corvette Rubber from LICS) glued on the doors, and are fitting the hinges and the latch.
It is clear that once fitted, the doors will be very hard to close. I'd expected a little push out at the top until the rubber set, but not this tight a fit otherwise.
Any words from the wise on what to do until the weatherstrip "takes a set"?
Harry
My car is nearly done at the paint shop (66 Coupe). I visited today and reviewed it with the shop manager. They have the new weatherstrip (Corvette Rubber from LICS) glued on the doors, and are fitting the hinges and the latch.
It is clear that once fitted, the doors will be very hard to close. I'd expected a little push out at the top until the rubber set, but not this tight a fit otherwise.
Any words from the wise on what to do until the weatherstrip "takes a set"?
Harry
Where are you finding the problem? I bought the Corvette Rubber seals also. They claim the seals should fit without any interference if the door is adjusted correctly. My original seals that were installed in 1980 were hard and I had a heck of a time getting them to shape the door closing correctly. The biggest problem I had with the old units was where the re-inforced area contacted the body. It seemed to bulky and I had to trim some off. Is that where you are finding the problem?
Steve
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,660
Likes: 7
From: DFW
Thanks to those who responded so far:
Vet65te: The shop marked the doors and shims on disassembly, and did fit the doors (but not the latch) once before attaching the rubber. What I saw yesterday will require slamming the door very hard to make it latch, if that is even possible. We could not make it come up flush just by leaning on it.
Dan (yellow66): It has the molded upper rear corner, and is installed with it in the correct location. What I see now will require the periodic re-adjustment you describe. But it will look terrible in the meantime!
Steve (66blkBB): I don't recall a reinforced area on the seal, just the molded corner. Where should I look? Do you recall how you trimmed the seal?
If I can get this resolved quickly, I'll have the car back on Friday and will post pictures.
Thanks again!
Harry
Vet65te: The shop marked the doors and shims on disassembly, and did fit the doors (but not the latch) once before attaching the rubber. What I saw yesterday will require slamming the door very hard to make it latch, if that is even possible. We could not make it come up flush just by leaning on it.
Dan (yellow66): It has the molded upper rear corner, and is installed with it in the correct location. What I see now will require the periodic re-adjustment you describe. But it will look terrible in the meantime!
Steve (66blkBB): I don't recall a reinforced area on the seal, just the molded corner. Where should I look? Do you recall how you trimmed the seal?
If I can get this resolved quickly, I'll have the car back on Friday and will post pictures.
Thanks again!
Harry
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,345
Likes: 87
From: Northern MN
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15-'16-'17
Thanks to those who responded so far:
Vet65te: The shop marked the doors and shims on disassembly, and did fit the doors (but not the latch) once before attaching the rubber. What I saw yesterday will require slamming the door very hard to make it latch, if that is even possible. We could not make it come up flush just by leaning on it.
Dan (yellow66): It has the molded upper rear corner, and is installed with it in the correct location. What I see now will require the periodic re-adjustment you describe. But it will look terrible in the meantime!
Steve (66blkBB): I don't recall a reinforced area on the seal, just the molded corner. Where should I look? Do you recall how you trimmed the seal?
If I can get this resolved quickly, I'll have the car back on Friday and will post pictures.
Thanks again!
Harry
Vet65te: The shop marked the doors and shims on disassembly, and did fit the doors (but not the latch) once before attaching the rubber. What I saw yesterday will require slamming the door very hard to make it latch, if that is even possible. We could not make it come up flush just by leaning on it.
Dan (yellow66): It has the molded upper rear corner, and is installed with it in the correct location. What I see now will require the periodic re-adjustment you describe. But it will look terrible in the meantime!
Steve (66blkBB): I don't recall a reinforced area on the seal, just the molded corner. Where should I look? Do you recall how you trimmed the seal?
If I can get this resolved quickly, I'll have the car back on Friday and will post pictures.
Thanks again!
Harry
I probably phrased it incorrectly. It is likely the molded corner that I am talking about. Doesn't that go into the curve portion of the door where it meets the rear fender peak? If so, that is what I am talking about. Or does that go up on the upper rear corner of the door?
Steve
Last edited by 66BlkBB; Apr 22, 2008 at 09:25 AM.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,660
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From: DFW
@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@@
I probably phrased it incorrectly. It is likely the molded corner that I am talking about. Doesn't that go into the curve portion of the door where it meets the rear fender peak? If so, that is what I am talking about. Or does that go up on the upper rear corner of the door?
Steve
I probably phrased it incorrectly. It is likely the molded corner that I am talking about. Doesn't that go into the curve portion of the door where it meets the rear fender peak? If so, that is what I am talking about. Or does that go up on the upper rear corner of the door?
Steve
Steve, they fit the molded piece to the upper rear corner of the door. I think that is the correct location. I don't think the interference is there, because as it is closing that portion of the door is not yet being pushed outward (an effect I expected). See the note below, but if they have to start triming, I'll have them look at the rear fender peak intersection area..
For everyone, I'm not sure how this was even possible after yesterday, but the shop told me a few minutes ago that they were able to adjust the passenger door for an acceptable (albeit very firm) closing force and a correct body fit. If all else fails on the drivers door, they will trim the weatherstrip. I'd rather not go there, unless we absolutely have to.
Thanks
Harry
