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I have had my 1962 Vette since 1980 and it has always had this problem ( The gas gauge needle jumps up about 1/4 of the gauge when the turn signals are on and even move when I press on the brake pedal.)
I have been working on turning this car into a Vetterod for the last 1 and 1/2 years and now that it is about 95% done I am making all the electrical connections and this same problem is still there!!!
I have cleaned all connections and grounds, but I do not have all of the ground straps on as I am not using a radio (just CD player).
After reading the solutions you guys gave me it started to sound familar and sure enough when I removed the tank cover there was the extra ground wire I installed about 6 months ago when I wired up the rear half. So I followed this wire found and the end was in the drivers side kick panel. Screwed it down and now the gauge only bounces about an 1/8 of an inch much better!!!!! But it still bounces. So I added another ground from sender to frame no difference!!! Next I ran a jumper from the sender to the - battery terminal. Still bounces!!
Any suggestion now or should I just be happy witha little bounce?!?!?!
After reading the solutions you guys gave me it started to sound familar and sure enough when I removed the tank cover there was the extra ground wire I installed about 6 months ago when I wired up the rear half. So I followed this wire found and the end was in the drivers side kick panel. Screwed it down and now the gauge only bounces about an 1/8 of an inch much better!!!!! But it still bounces. So I added another ground from sender to frame no difference!!! Next I ran a jumper from the sender to the - battery terminal. Still bounces!!
Any suggestion now or should I just be happy witha little bounce?!?!?!
Thanks for all your help!!!!
I too get a small bounce after applying the extra ground to my '61 - but the gauge is usable now so I'll live with it - you should prob do the same. This may have been as good as it ever was even when the cars were new.
Oh, I have it alright!!! I always have and after my maiden voyage today, I still have it!!!
Went through the same drill - after replacing my faulty fuel sending unit and 'buttoning up the patient' I find out the gauge is whacky and had to break everything open again and add the ground wire. Had to open it again a THIRD time when I found out later that my drain tube from my gas cap filler area was missing ! All within a couple of months.
Bite the bullet and do it and move on or it will bug you every time you drive off.
Screwed it down and now the gauge only bounces about an 1/8 of an inch much better!!!!! But it still bounces. So I added another ground from sender to frame no difference!!! Next I ran a jumper from the sender to the - battery terminal. Still bounces!!
May i posit that you now have an improved ground, but you don't have a good ground.
Good ground: soldered terminals, not just crimped, clean both surfaces to fresh bright metal where the terminals attach to the sending unit screw and the frame.
It also helps to amke sure the rest of your grounds are good, if your frame to battery/frame to engine ground is bad, you still don't have a good ground.
I grounded the snot out of my car when i had the engine out last time.
I too have "grounded the snot" out of mine as well. I've put multiple extra grounds along with retaining the stock ones. You can never have too many groung wires. Someone told me a long time ago that most electrical problems are Grounding related.
Went through the same drill - after replacing my faulty fuel sending unit and 'buttoning up the patient' I find out the gauge is whacky and had to break everything open again and add the ground wire. Had to open it again a THIRD time when I found out later that my drain tube from my gas cap filler area was missing ! All within a couple of months.
Bite the bullet and do it and move on or it will bug you every time you drive off.
The part that ticks me off is that I cleaned EVERYTHING up very nicely and even replaced my complete wiring harness - albeit a few years ago now. When I did the wiring, I added several new grounds that were not factory.
on later model cars[ 70/80,s ] they use a strap that has teeth[jaws] it is about 2'' long it clamps on the fuel line where the lines go together from the tank to the chassis it is a 2 second fix it is avaible thru parts houses and wrecking yarks
Thanks to all that have replied to my problem.
The good news is that after running a second ground to the frame (That makes 2 extra ground wires) my needle moves so little that I can hardly see it move when turn signals and brakes at applied.