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Old May 6, 2008 | 09:54 PM
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Default Dynamat

I did not want to hi-jack the Floorboard insulation thread.
How much will I need to do a coupe, doors, floor area and roof?

Thanks
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Old May 7, 2008 | 12:49 AM
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I do not remember how may boxes but it ending up costing about $500 and it was well worth the money. I have a 67 BB Coupe with Air and it made a huge difference.
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Old May 7, 2008 | 09:46 AM
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Default Dynamat

I used a product called Thermo Tec. It was half the price of Dynamat. It was $40 per box of 60" by 36". I used four boxes. It is peel and stick. I did the entire floor, front and back, the roof and pillars as well as the inside of the doors. My car is nice and quiet now. Jerry
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Old May 7, 2008 | 10:07 AM
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Any issues with foil type products not allowing air/breathing of fiberglass? Possible damage down the road? Especially on inner door skins and roof where paint has sealed the outside and now we are sealing the unfinished inside?
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Old May 7, 2008 | 10:22 AM
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Originally Posted by Tampa Jerry
I used a product called Thermo Tec. It was half the price of Dynamat. It was $40 per box of 60" by 36". I used four boxes. It is peel and stick. I did the entire floor, front and back, the roof and pillars as well as the inside of the doors. My car is nice and quiet now. Jerry
Thank you I will look into that.
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Old May 7, 2008 | 10:23 AM
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Originally Posted by Kensmith
Any issues with foil type products not allowing air/breathing of fiberglass? Possible damage down the road? Especially on inner door skins and roof where paint has sealed the outside and now we are sealing the unfinished inside?
Good question.
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Old May 7, 2008 | 11:00 AM
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Originally Posted by Kensmith
Any issues with foil type products not allowing air/breathing of fiberglass? Possible damage down the road? Especially on inner door skins and roof where paint has sealed the outside and now we are sealing the unfinished inside?
Fiberglass doesn't "breathe" - it's non-permeable.
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Old May 7, 2008 | 12:08 PM
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Originally Posted by Kensmith
Any issues with foil type products not allowing air/breathing of fiberglass? Possible damage down the road? Especially on inner door skins and roof where paint has sealed the outside and now we are sealing the unfinished inside?
I've read that the asphalt-based products should not be applied to the insides of the doors or roof, for fear that oils will bleed into and through the fiberglass and affect the paint. I don't know that anyone has presented proof that this happens, but I would heed this advice if it were me. I insulated my 67 ragtop with B-Quiet but avoided applying it to the door insides.
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Old May 7, 2008 | 12:18 PM
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Originally Posted by LouieM
I've read that the asphalt-based products should not be applied to the insides of the doors or roof, for fear that oils will bleed into and through the fiberglass and affect the paint. I don't know that anyone has presented proof that this happens, but I would heed this advice if it were me. I insulated my 67 ragtop with B-Quiet but avoided applying it to the door insides.
If fiberglass in non-permeable, it should not cause any problems.
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Old May 7, 2008 | 01:08 PM
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Default Don't Use Dynamat

Go to Elemental Designs website. I have used their stuff in three cars. Better than Dynamat and cheaper. More flexible too. I've used their 45 mil product and it works real well.
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Old May 7, 2008 | 01:43 PM
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Originally Posted by LouieM
I've read that the asphalt-based products should not be applied to the insides of the doors or roof, for fear that oils will bleed into and through the fiberglass and affect the paint. I don't know that anyone has presented proof that this happens, but I would heed this advice if it were me. I insulated my 67 ragtop with B-Quiet but avoided applying it to the door insides.
Originally Posted by Kensmith
If fiberglass in non-permeable, it should not cause any problems.
I agree that such is the way that it should be. However, I've had the experience that many have had of a factory A/C compressor leaking oil, which gets onto the underside of the hood and ruins the paint on the shiny side of the hood. Asphalt is just very thick oil, so I presume that the lighter fractions in it might bleed through the fiberglass over time (years?) and harm the paint. IMHO.
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Old May 7, 2008 | 03:27 PM
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For what it's worth, I did the whole interior of my coupe, including the roof under the headliner and the insides of the doors with Dynamat. It took about 2-1/2 boxes. I got the dynamat on e-Bay for around $100 per box, probably has gone up since.
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Old May 7, 2008 | 05:21 PM
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I did my 66 roadster with a box and a half... There were 9 sheets in a box... I have 4 1/2 sheets left over... I fixing to put it for sale for 30.00... Dynamat was one of the best things I did to the car.. It took out the road noise and the car just feels better when driving without that road noise. Now I can really appreciate those side pipes!
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Old May 7, 2008 | 05:49 PM
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Go to the Sound Deadener Showdown web site, you might change your mind about buying Dynamat.
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Old May 7, 2008 | 08:50 PM
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Default Kool Mat

Has anyone used a product called Kool Mat? I have not seen any posts on this product, I guess because of its costs. When in Carlisle I stopped at vendor who said he sells lots of this to Corvette guys. Any feed back to find out if it is worth the extra cost?

Thanks
Bob
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Old May 7, 2008 | 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by LouieM
I agree that such is the way that it should be. However, I've had the experience that many have had of a factory A/C compressor leaking oil, which gets onto the underside of the hood and ruins the paint on the shiny side of the hood. Asphalt is just very thick oil, so I presume that the lighter fractions in it might bleed through the fiberglass over time (years?) and harm the paint. IMHO.
I was taking a quote from John Z as I asked if in fact if Fiberglass needs to breathe in a previous reply. He said non-permeable. He knows a lot more than I do!
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