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Head Gasket Install

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Old May 7, 2008 | 07:47 AM
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Default Head Gasket Install

Folks,

I'm attempting my first head gasket install and believe I have everything worked out except which bolts extend into the water jacket (I'll apply some ARP thread sealer to those).

I used a pick and it seems every bolt is bottomless meaning that they all extend into some area. I've attached a diagram to help. All the books I read don't really describe which ones to coat so I'm trying to figure this out the best that I can.

I plan on using thread sealer on 1-8, 11, 13, and 15. Are there others that I need this for? Are there some that I listed that I don't need?



Thanks,
Jim
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Old May 7, 2008 | 08:48 AM
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Jim,

Someone else can chime in but I believe that all the bolts go to the water jacket. My recommendation is to coat all of them. The cylinders are all seperate if I remember correctly, so that water flows around each one completely. If I am wrong here someone will let us know.

Steve
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Old May 7, 2008 | 09:42 AM
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Originally Posted by 66BlkBB
Jim,

Someone else can chime in but I believe that all the bolts go to the water jacket. My recommendation is to coat all of them. The cylinders are all seperate if I remember correctly, so that water flows around each one completely. If I am wrong here someone will let us know.

Steve
Steve,

You are correct - all of the bolts must be coated/sealed.

The other aspect that is missing is that these bolts must be torqued correctly, and this requires a consistent "lube" and friction on the bolt threads (from one bolt to another). You do not want to install a dry bolt, and try to torque it next to a coated bolt. The 2 bolts will not torque the same, and the dry bolt will have less clamp on the head gasket (since it will reach the same torque value due to having more friction as it tightens).

In addition, all of the block threads should be cleaned out prior to head installation. If the head was not cleaned by a shop, then old thread sealer will still be in those threads. I run an old tap through each bolt hole to clean out the threads.

Plasticman

Last edited by Plasticman; May 7, 2008 at 09:45 AM.
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Old May 7, 2008 | 11:12 AM
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Plasticman & Steve,

Thanks for the response. I purchased ARP thread sealer and assembly lube since I was not sure if all would need the sealer. I wanted to make sure that each was going to be inserted with either the sealer or assembly lube. Using the thread sealer on all them matches up with the fact that my pick goes through each bolt hole.

I did purchase some ARP 7/16 head bolts and based on the instructions I should tork them to 62 lbs. This value seems high since I am using the ARP moly thread sealer. I'm starting to understand that the traditional torque values are more based on the bolts in use and not the part you are trying to attach. In this case, the combination of ARP bolts and lube is about the same as standard head bolts with no lube. Always learning!

I still need to clean out the old threads. First time for everything but I am now deep into it!

Jim
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Old May 7, 2008 | 11:21 AM
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I prefer to use a thread-chaser rather than a tap to clean up the head bolt holes in the deck; a thread-chaser won't remove any metal from a threaded hole.
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