When you click on links to various merchants on this site and make a purchase, this can result in this site earning a commission. Affiliate programs and affiliations include, but are not limited to, the eBay Partner Network.
I just bought a rebuilt 283 for my car and wanted to know if there is anything I should do to prep it for long term storage. Its going to sit anywhere from 6 months to 20 years........
If the heads are on it, I'd remove the rocker arms, pushrods, and lifters in order to keep the valves closed.
I'd coat the bare surfaces in a long term protectant.
Long long. It needs a carb, dist, fuel pump, water pump and oil. Its very complete. I wanna wrap it up to keep dust and junk out of it, but prepare it first if there is anything I should do.
Buy large, heavy plastic bags. May find some at your local machine shop that will cover the complete engine. Pull the plugs, if they are in the heads and put oil down the cylinders. Just enough to coat them, don't drown the cylinders. Turn the motor over by hand a few revolutions and put plugs in the heads. Would also open the valve covers and relieve the valve springs by loosening up the rocker arms. Any bare areas can be covered with Marvel Mystery Oil. Works great. I have a bare block that I had cooked out a couple of years ago and that was what they recommended I use on it to store it until I decide to rebuild it. Then just put the plastic bag over the block and seal it up with good tape.
Buy large, heavy plastic bags. May find some at your local machine shop that will cover the complete engine. Pull the plugs, if they are in the heads and put oil down the cylinders. Just enough to coat them, don't drown the cylinders. Turn the motor over by hand a few revolutions and put plugs in the heads. Would also open the valve covers and relieve the valve springs by loosening up the rocker arms. Any bare areas can be covered with Marvel Mystery Oil. Works great. I have a bare block that I had cooked out a couple of years ago and that was what they recommended I use on it to store it until I decide to rebuild it. Then just put the plastic bag over the block and seal it up with good tape.
Steve
I agree. The only things to add are that you can use a fogger in the pan thru the drain hole, as well as thru the distributor hole, the intake, etc.
I'd also throw a bag or two of desiccant inside the plastic bag to absorb any moisture that is present. If you do that and seal the bag, it should be fairly moisture proof.
You should be able to attach ears to the intake bolts or threaded holes in the heads after bagging it. the ears will seal the holes though the bag when the bolts are tightened (you may want rubber washers there to keep the metal from squeezing through the bag). I pull ears for chain hooks from GM engines in junk yards.
I built two wood jigs from 4x4 lumber to support engines not on a hoist. I don't trust engine stands. The front jig has a triangle shape that reaches to the motor mount pads. in the case of a c1 engine you need to pick support surfaces. The rear supports at the rear block surface at the clutch housing.
I have stored my 66 427 engine for 20 years, but I gutted it and sprayed all surfaces with lithium before draping a plastic cover over it, so I have not encountered your problem.
I would back off the rockers, spray the innards you can get to with Wynns engine fogger, then seal all openings with duct tape. Wrap in a heavy duty plastic engine bag, and put some desicant packets in it. Then using a vacuum cleaner, suck all the air out of it, and keep it in a low humidity cool, but not frozen environment.