Installing fuel pump - How difficult?
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 11,888
Likes: 7
From: Olustee Florida
Installing fuel pump - How difficult?
I was going to change from an electric pump to stock but someone (former garage owner) says the job is very difficult on a car with the engine in.
How much of a hassle is it? Any tips?
How much of a hassle is it? Any tips?
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 58,061
Likes: 7,146
Army
Thats simply not true on typical American cars from the '60s that I've worked on. Mechanical fuel pump installation (with engine in car) is routine maintenance (the rubber diaphragm in them fails quite often). These pumps are snatched off rebuilt and reinstalled in a few hours and the biggest trick is getting the actuating shaft positioned properly on re-installation. I can tell you my '61 vette has plenty of working room around the fuel pump and all fuel lines and attaching bolts are visible and easily accessible. You probably have a blank-off plate over the hole for your removed pump and hopefully the electric pump can be accessed for easy removal.
Most passenger car manuals cover the pump R&R procedure quite well and its well within the capabilities of a DIY mechanic. I know people that have changed them alongside the road.
Most passenger car manuals cover the pump R&R procedure quite well and its well within the capabilities of a DIY mechanic. I know people that have changed them alongside the road.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Jun 20, 2008 at 07:25 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,345
Likes: 87
From: Northern MN
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15-'16-'17
It would depend on what they changed when they went to the electric unit. Did they screw up the fuel line where it exits the fuel cell or where it would hook up to the fuel pump?
Other than that it should be straight forward. On some of the GM engines there is a threaded hole in the front of the block that a person can put a bolt in to hold the pump rod up while installing the fuel pump. Don't know if yours has one or not. That is the biggest hassle. Keeping the rod up while trying to get the pump to bolt up. Good luck.
Steve
Other than that it should be straight forward. On some of the GM engines there is a threaded hole in the front of the block that a person can put a bolt in to hold the pump rod up while installing the fuel pump. Don't know if yours has one or not. That is the biggest hassle. Keeping the rod up while trying to get the pump to bolt up. Good luck.
Steve
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,576
Likes: 118
From: Conroe Texas
Does your car have factory A/C? If so is it still intact or is the compressor missing?
If you have an intact A/C system, then you'll probably have to remove the right front wheel and use the upper control arm opening in the inner fenderwell as your access point for the 2 mounting bolts for the fuel pump.
If you have an intact A/C system, then you'll probably have to remove the right front wheel and use the upper control arm opening in the inner fenderwell as your access point for the 2 mounting bolts for the fuel pump.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 6,808
Likes: 24
From: Westport CT
C2 SB fuel pump job.
fond memories of laying on the cold garage floor in the winter, fuel dripping down my arm and into my eyes . . . .
actually not so bad if you take the advice from here - remove your right front wheel, and you can get direct access to the two bolts that hold it on with a few ratchet extensions. Use the longer bolt from the front of the block trick to hold the arm up. Pinch the rubber fuel line to the pump with mini vice grips or something sim.
fond memories of laying on the cold garage floor in the winter, fuel dripping down my arm and into my eyes . . . .
actually not so bad if you take the advice from here - remove your right front wheel, and you can get direct access to the two bolts that hold it on with a few ratchet extensions. Use the longer bolt from the front of the block trick to hold the arm up. Pinch the rubber fuel line to the pump with mini vice grips or something sim.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 3,113
Likes: 4
I just installed mine yesterday with the engine in. Took about 5 minutes without the exhaust manifolds on. Just make sure you rotate the engine over until the fuel pump cam lobe is on its smallest side or you will never get the fuel pump in. Just rotate the engine until you feel the rod go up as far as it can.
Good luck
Good luck
Racer
Joined: Sep 2005
Posts: 345
Likes: 2
From: Vancouver British Columbia
I put a new one in my 66 last weekend and the two best recommentations are:
Use the new Ratching type of Box end wrenches. Makes the job really easy from down under. you won't have to pull off the front wheel.
Make sure that you use the bolt on the front of the engine block to hold the the pump cam lobe up.
Pull the old pump off, remove the bolt from the front of the engine block, install a longer one 1 1/2" I think not all the way in.
Get a helper to Bump the engine while you have your finger on the Pump cam lobe until it is in it's highest position. Tighten bolt just so it holds up the pump cam lobe. Not to much pressure as to damage.
If you don't, you will be fighting the pump and be very frustrated(don't ask how I know)
Not that difficult once you get the hang of it.
Do a search and find all the tips.
Good Luck
Use the new Ratching type of Box end wrenches. Makes the job really easy from down under. you won't have to pull off the front wheel.
Make sure that you use the bolt on the front of the engine block to hold the the pump cam lobe up.
Pull the old pump off, remove the bolt from the front of the engine block, install a longer one 1 1/2" I think not all the way in.
Get a helper to Bump the engine while you have your finger on the Pump cam lobe until it is in it's highest position. Tighten bolt just so it holds up the pump cam lobe. Not to much pressure as to damage.
If you don't, you will be fighting the pump and be very frustrated(don't ask how I know)
Not that difficult once you get the hang of it.
Do a search and find all the tips.
Good Luck
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,108
Likes: 4
From: Plano Texas
Olustee bus,
First, use Corbrastang's tip to get the cam on the short side of the cam lobe, then use Black_Magic's tip by installing a bolt in the front of the block to hold the fuel pump rod up. After cleaning the block surface thoroughly, and cleaning all remnants of gasket off, I install the gasket with silicone sealant on the back of the fuel pump and let it set about an hour. Next, install two threaded headless studs in the bolt holes that are longer than the original fuel pump bolts. The studs only need to be long enough so as to start two nuts on the ends with the fuel pump in position to go on the block. (I always smear a little sealant on the block surface prior to installation). Then gradually tighten each nut evenly on the studs until the pump is pulled up tight to the block. Now remove one of the studs and replace it with one of the original bolts and lock washer. Do the same to the other stud once the first bolt is tight. You're done!!!!
Good luck.
First, use Corbrastang's tip to get the cam on the short side of the cam lobe, then use Black_Magic's tip by installing a bolt in the front of the block to hold the fuel pump rod up. After cleaning the block surface thoroughly, and cleaning all remnants of gasket off, I install the gasket with silicone sealant on the back of the fuel pump and let it set about an hour. Next, install two threaded headless studs in the bolt holes that are longer than the original fuel pump bolts. The studs only need to be long enough so as to start two nuts on the ends with the fuel pump in position to go on the block. (I always smear a little sealant on the block surface prior to installation). Then gradually tighten each nut evenly on the studs until the pump is pulled up tight to the block. Now remove one of the studs and replace it with one of the original bolts and lock washer. Do the same to the other stud once the first bolt is tight. You're done!!!!
Good luck.
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
Posts: 14,984
Likes: 185
From: CT
I just installed mine yesterday with the engine in. Took about 5 minutes without the exhaust manifolds on. Just make sure you rotate the engine over until the fuel pump cam lobe is on its smallest side or you will never get the fuel pump in. Just rotate the engine until you feel the rod go up as far as it can.
Good luck
Good luck
Melting Slicks
Joined: May 2007
Posts: 3,461
Likes: 18
From: cooper city florida
Just change mine on my '62. To make sure the fuel pump rod is up as far as it can go, crank the engine to TDC (dist rotor pointing to #1), this ensures the cam for the rod is at bottom of the lobe (rod pushed in to max of travel), then use the bolt to hold (finger tight on the bolt)
The winning tip of the day. Makes the job sooooooooo easy.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2002
Posts: 8,913
Likes: 283
I would discontinue his midyear corvette advice. As far as I know, (and I have tried) the fuel pump MUST be removed before engine install. There is not enough clearance between the motor mounts to get the pump by. So the only way to install it is with the engine in the car.
It's not a fun job, but it takes about 30 min.
Take the pass. tire off and access the bolts with long extensions through the splash guard opening.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2006
Posts: 7,215
Likes: 1
From: Orlando FL
It would depend on what they changed when they went to the electric unit. Did they screw up the fuel line where it exits the fuel cell or where it would hook up to the fuel pump?
Other than that it should be straight forward. On some of the GM engines there is a threaded hole in the front of the block that a person can put a bolt in to hold the pump rod up while installing the fuel pump. Don't know if yours has one or not. That is the biggest hassle. Keeping the rod up while trying to get the pump to bolt up. Good luck.
Steve
Other than that it should be straight forward. On some of the GM engines there is a threaded hole in the front of the block that a person can put a bolt in to hold the pump rod up while installing the fuel pump. Don't know if yours has one or not. That is the biggest hassle. Keeping the rod up while trying to get the pump to bolt up. Good luck.
Steve
good luck!!!
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,460
Likes: 5
From: Wheaton IL
I would discontinue his midyear corvette advice. As far as I know, (and I have tried) the fuel pump MUST be removed before engine install. There is not enough clearance between the motor mounts to get the pump by. So the only way to install it is with the engine in the car.
It's not a fun job, but it takes about 30 min.
Take the pass. tire off and access the bolts with long extensions through the splash guard opening.
It's not a fun job, but it takes about 30 min.
Take the pass. tire off and access the bolts with long extensions through the splash guard opening.
Brian
Thread Starter
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 11,888
Likes: 7
From: Olustee Florida
Great tips here. Thanks to all. However, I can't believe a 63 has the bolt hole to hold up the pushrod. I haven't looked but with my luck, I know it is not there! The 63 does not even have a bolt for the front of the crank like everyother car in the world. Turning it over by hand is very difficult.
I will look!
I will look!
Team Owner
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 26,118
Likes: 1,874
From: Greenville, Indiana
To my knowledge, EVERY 1st generation SBC has that hole. From '55 up to when they quit making that block. The two holes on each side of the crank snout were used to attach the '55-'57 Passenger engine mounts. Replacement and succeeding engines carried over that feature. Later blocks used the left side holes to attach the PS pump.
Not every engine needed the bolt in the crankshaft to secure the balancer, including the lower performance 250 and 300 horsepower 327's. Only the SHP 327's had the bolt. The standard 327's didn't.
The easy way to turn the engine is to put the car in high gear and rock the car to move the engine. If you have a PG, use a remote starter button. Nothing hard at all about it.
Put the new pump on the engine first. Leave the other pump/lines in place. That way, if you get pooped out, you can quit after you get the new pump bolted on. Go ahead and drive it without fuel lines to the new pump and run off your electric pump. Then when you get your strength back, you can finish up the job at your leisure.
Shouldn't take more than a couple hours to remove the old system and install the new and be on the road.
Not every engine needed the bolt in the crankshaft to secure the balancer, including the lower performance 250 and 300 horsepower 327's. Only the SHP 327's had the bolt. The standard 327's didn't.
The easy way to turn the engine is to put the car in high gear and rock the car to move the engine. If you have a PG, use a remote starter button. Nothing hard at all about it.
Put the new pump on the engine first. Leave the other pump/lines in place. That way, if you get pooped out, you can quit after you get the new pump bolted on. Go ahead and drive it without fuel lines to the new pump and run off your electric pump. Then when you get your strength back, you can finish up the job at your leisure.
Shouldn't take more than a couple hours to remove the old system and install the new and be on the road.
Great tips here. Thanks to all. However, I can't believe a 63 has the bolt hole to hold up the pushrod. I haven't looked but with my luck, I know it is not there! The 63 does not even have a bolt for the front of the crank like everyother car in the world. Turning it over by hand is very difficult.
I will look!
I will look!
Last edited by MikeM; Jun 21, 2008 at 09:17 AM.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 38,897
Likes: 1,926
From: Washington Michigan
I would discontinue his midyear corvette advice. As far as I know, (and I have tried) the fuel pump MUST be removed before engine install. There is not enough clearance between the motor mounts to get the pump by. So the only way to install it is with the engine in the car.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 2,460
Likes: 5
From: Wheaton IL
Brian