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A couple weeks ago my battery died after a short trip. Jumped it off, got home and raised the hood to charge the battery where I found the positive battery cable melted to my headers. Rubber melted half way through, metal part of cable had some corrosion on it. I replaced the cable. Charged the battery for about 2 hours. Car started fine. Went for a quick spin. Now a week later, battery dead again. Do you think I fried my alternator?
I think that you may not have charged the battery enough OR you have a ground some where. I doubt the alt is the problem as you didn't say anything about how the car ran when you were driving it. If it were the alternator you would possibly have problems providing voltage under load during operation. However you have a drain at rest. I would hook a volt meter up to the battery while at rest to determine if you have a ground some where. Dave
Car ran fine at idle and under a load. I have a battery cut off switch that I disconnect when car is parked so i don't think it is a battery drain. I'll try charging it longer.
I think I would check alternator or voltage regulator..Also check the connections...Old car old electrical system...Also look into getting Optima battery..I never had a cranking problem since I bought my Optima battery!
Get the car started and put a voltmeter across the battery terminals - if it reads 13.8 V or thereabouts alternator is OK...if its closer to 12 V then your alternator (or voltage regulator) is the probable cause. If voltage is up around 15 V (or higher) then prob regulator.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Jul 28, 2008 at 07:42 AM.
I AM getting an OPTIMA battery today. Will check amps on everything tonight to make sure alt. and reg. are ok.
Does anyone know if they make a heat protection sleave for a battery cable? It would be cool to slide this over the battery cable to insure no melting. I did see where they make a battery cable that has a metal housing on it.
am i incorrect that a simple alternator test is to disconnect pos when engine is running? if alternator is ok, car will keep running, if not, car will drop dead.... used this one all the time when out on the road....
am i incorrect that a simple alternator test is to disconnect pos when engine is running? if alternator is ok, car will keep running, if not, car will drop dead.... used this one all the time when out on the road....
Bad idea to disconnect battery cable with car running - a few fuel vapors on these old cars and a spark and there you go.. Also I've heard on some cars doing this allows the alternator voltage to 'float' as the regulator doesn't have the battery in the circuit to provide a baseline voltage and you can have up to 60V going through your system. (I have not confirmed this last piece of info personally.)
The voltmeter across the battery terminals is much better:
With car running:
13.5V - 14.4V Alternator is OK
12V Alternator prob bad
15+V Regulator prob bad
When cranking car:
10V If battery voltage does NOT dive when cranking - its usually corroded battery terminals.
You can carry a cheapy voltmeter in the glove box for like $9...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Jul 30, 2008 at 12:51 PM.
Harbor Freight had them on sale for $3, even a backlit screen for night time problems. I keep one in my little traveling tool kit in the trunk.
Paul
Me too...the old carpenter's apron holds everything and keeps it from sliding around on the rubber trunk mat and I can even wear it if I have to work on the car alongside the road!!
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Jul 30, 2008 at 01:04 PM.
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