Need Help: Replacing wheel studs
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,115
Likes: 258
The stock knurl size is about .55"
It is very difficult to find larger and longer studs for this application (large knurl hole size).
I have done A LOT OF RESEARCH in this regard for my '59.
After a lot of searching I did successfully come up with some obsolete 1/2" press in studs for my own application (stock type steel wheels).
(I had to buy the job lot - so will be listing the remainder for sale)
For your case here is the best (and I believe only) solution : Moroso and I think ARP have a late model Mustang application stud (Moroso p/n 46180) : .615" knurl, 1/2" stud x 3" long - HOWEVER THE KNURL SHANK IS TOO LONG !.
I would consider using L9 or hardened washers in a suitable thickness to put under the head of the stud to compensate for the longer knurl shank.
However you will have to determine if there will be enough clearance to the wheel cylinders ?
I would avoid shortenning the knurled shank by turning in a lathe due to the possibilty of creating stress raisers (from cutting).
You will have to determine/decide once you have the studs if this is a legitimate concern.
You will still have to enlarge the stud holes slightly (after measuring the studs) to get about a .010 - .015" interference fit on the knurl.
Good luck !
It is very difficult to find larger and longer studs for this application (large knurl hole size).
I have done A LOT OF RESEARCH in this regard for my '59.
After a lot of searching I did successfully come up with some obsolete 1/2" press in studs for my own application (stock type steel wheels).
(I had to buy the job lot - so will be listing the remainder for sale)
For your case here is the best (and I believe only) solution : Moroso and I think ARP have a late model Mustang application stud (Moroso p/n 46180) : .615" knurl, 1/2" stud x 3" long - HOWEVER THE KNURL SHANK IS TOO LONG !.
I would consider using L9 or hardened washers in a suitable thickness to put under the head of the stud to compensate for the longer knurl shank.
However you will have to determine if there will be enough clearance to the wheel cylinders ?
I would avoid shortenning the knurled shank by turning in a lathe due to the possibilty of creating stress raisers (from cutting).
You will have to determine/decide once you have the studs if this is a legitimate concern.
You will still have to enlarge the stud holes slightly (after measuring the studs) to get about a .010 - .015" interference fit on the knurl.
Good luck !
Last edited by QIK59; Feb 1, 2015 at 12:30 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Aug 2011
Posts: 3,115
Likes: 258
Eureka !!
Just re-read your post : it occured to me that since you are going to be using wheel spacers you may not need to be concerned about the knurl shank being too long or protruding (other than opening up the brake drum stud holes to suit).
Moroso has :
7/16" x 2 7/8" stud that may be perfect ! (knurl dia. .552 -.559") p/n 46160
OR the 46180 1/2" stud I mentioned above (if you need or want a 1/2" stud)
Moroso has :
7/16" x 2 7/8" stud that may be perfect ! (knurl dia. .552 -.559") p/n 46160
OR the 46180 1/2" stud I mentioned above (if you need or want a 1/2" stud)
The stock knurl size is about .55"
It is very difficult to find larger and longer studs for this application (large knurl hole size).
I have done A LOT OF RESEARCH in this regard for my '59.
I did successfully come up with some obsolete 1/2" press in studs for my own application (stock type steel wheels).
For your case here is the best (and I believe only) solution : Moroso and I think ARP have a late model Mustang application stud (Moroso p/n 46180) : .615" knurl, 1/2" stud x 3" long - HOWEVER THE KNURL SHANK IS TOO LONG !.
I would consider using L9 or hardened washers in a suitable thickness to put under the head of the stud to compensate for the longer knurl shank.
However you will have to determine if there will be enough clearance to the wheel cylinders ?
I would avoid shortenning the knurled shank by turning in a lathe due to the possibilty of creating stress raisers (from cutting).
You will have to determine/decide once you have the studs if this is a legitimate concern.
You will still have to enlarge the stud holes slightly (after measuring the studs) to get about a .010 - .015" interference fit on the knurl.
Good luck !
It is very difficult to find larger and longer studs for this application (large knurl hole size).
I have done A LOT OF RESEARCH in this regard for my '59.
I did successfully come up with some obsolete 1/2" press in studs for my own application (stock type steel wheels).
For your case here is the best (and I believe only) solution : Moroso and I think ARP have a late model Mustang application stud (Moroso p/n 46180) : .615" knurl, 1/2" stud x 3" long - HOWEVER THE KNURL SHANK IS TOO LONG !.
I would consider using L9 or hardened washers in a suitable thickness to put under the head of the stud to compensate for the longer knurl shank.
However you will have to determine if there will be enough clearance to the wheel cylinders ?
I would avoid shortenning the knurled shank by turning in a lathe due to the possibilty of creating stress raisers (from cutting).
You will have to determine/decide once you have the studs if this is a legitimate concern.
You will still have to enlarge the stud holes slightly (after measuring the studs) to get about a .010 - .015" interference fit on the knurl.
Good luck !
Last edited by QIK59; Feb 1, 2015 at 12:31 PM.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2011
Posts: 957
Likes: 38
From: Morristown MN
Help, I have a 58 and will be replacing the Steel rims with Aluminum which requires a 1/2" spacer and longer studs, this is where I have my problem. My old studs are 1 3/4" long so I will need a 2 1/4 or 2 /1/2" long stud. I tried Summit racing and Zip. Summit racing had 2 1/2" studs but different knurl sizes, I have no idea what my knurl size is. These are stock drum brakes and standard front hubs, does anyone have any ideas of what the knurl size is or who may stock the studs I need. Thanks.
Mike
