After a short drive, A few years ago (1993) I noticed that the left rear center cap was missing, the stainless pin was gone and the spinner was loose.
I replaced the pin and locked it by reversing the spinner with a couple of hard wacks, no problem for the last 5 years.

I drove from Toronto Canada to Alburn Hills Mich to attend Woodward a couple of weeks ago. When I arrived at the Hotel I noticed the left rear center cap was ready to fall off. I took it off and I was able to remove the pin by hand with no effort. Put the pin back in, tapped it with a hammer and again reversed the spinner to lock it.
Hwy 94 and 6?? was a very rough ride down.
Took 75, 59 and 94 back, 75 and 59 where fine.

A couple of days ago I thought I would just check it again, sure enough I was able to remove the pin by hand. I took everything apart cleaned it all, put the spinner back on and hammered it tight to the cone, fitted a new stainless pin and locked the spinner onto the pin. I checked the other 3 wheels and no problems with them, everything is tight.

Any thoughts on what might be happening with this left rear wheel???

 

It's trying to come off on you.

Check for radial play between the drive pins and the mating holes in the wheels with the spinner loose. There should be none or clearance in the .000. Short of finding anything wrong, compare the fit of the left rear with the fit of the left front.

 

You are not tightening the spinner enough. The pins should be free floating. In fact if you have installed the spinners correctly you do not need the spinners. You should be locking the spinner in place and then inserting the pins. If you are able to turn the spinner with the pins in you have installed them to loose. Cheers

 

I'm more than a little curious why you think it is ONLY the left rear wheel that he is failing to tighten enough? Or has it on the wrong side?

If the wheel was mounted on the left front, I'd bet it would stay tight.

 

I do not think it's only the one wheel. If he is installing the pin and then tightening the spinner more it in it's not tight enough to begin with. I think all his wheels are not tight enough and only the one has loosened so far. L

 

His first post says he reversed the spinner to lock the pin. Sounds to me like he's loosening the wheel in order to lock the pin in place.

 

I don't think he's using a unique process just on the left rear wheel. Do you? That's the only one he's having trouble with.

Besides, loosening the wheel a tiny amount can still leave it way too tight for it to ever loosen without even using a pin. This thread just goes to show how much good those pins really are.

 

If I'm correctly interpreting what you wrote, you are loosening the spinner after you tighten it? If so, that's just wrong. You want that spinner darned near as tight as you can get it (GM spec is 450 ft-lb, as I recall).

Here's the thing..... the amount of rotation the spinner can undergo between loose and tight is actually very small. Take a look at this picture and then read the explanation below:



See those double red hash marks on the hub? They represent the postion of the spinner when it's been tightened with some "love taps" from a dead blow hammer. They represent the spinner position when it is just snug.

Now look slightly more clockwise on the hub at the fat black mark. That represents the position of the spinner after I've pounded the livin' daylights out of it with a 4 lb steel hammer.

Not much rotational difference is there?

So, if you are loosening your spinner just for the sake of inserting the pin which everyone seems to feel provides more psychological benefit than real benefit, don't!

Tighten the spinner as tight as you can get it and leave it that way.

Jim

 

Oh no I certainly don't, but I thought it curious that his first post implies he's loosening the spinner against the pin.

 

Search the archives on this one. A few members with a lot of experience explained that the pins have nothing to do with retaining or locking the spinner. They are only anti-theft pins to prevent someone from stealing the spinner while on the car. If you are backing the spinner from tight to insert the pin, you have just effectively loosened the wheel. Which will ineffectively hold your wheel on !

 

my thoughts are that you and I do not follow the same installation technique. I install my KO wheels hand tight when in the air, with a dab of never seize on the threads and on the mating surface, so that I can get maximum compression. Then, I let the car down and whack the spinner with my ***** thumper lead hammer until I think it is one there pretty good, and examine how the pin slots are lining up. Chances are one is just a little further tight away, so I bring it into line with the "more tihgt" slot, and then insert the pin, if it does not go in freely (but mine are always a little bit snug fit) then something is wrong. I don't hit the spinner forward (or god forbid backward) to "lock" the pin into place. I reinstall the cap with the heel of my hand, and sometimes I need to give one a little love tap with my non-marring white rubber mallet (on the edge) to seat it.

I am having the same thought as MikeM - check the back of this KO and confirm that the holes that sit over the big mating pins on the KO hub are not deformed in any way.

 

The proper way to tighten the spinners, and the damn wheels will stay on the car. Those pins are not to be used in the tightening process period. You tighten the wheel and then insert the pin. It should be loose, and it should stay loose.

 

The pins are anti-theft devices only!!

I had one that came loose all the time no matter where I had it on the car. (this was before I was properly educated in Knock Off school. )

The problem was as stated above... the holes that the pins go into were ovaled out due to the previous owner installing the wheels over the lug nut studs vs the drive pins. (this can be done if the proper KO adaptor lug nuts are not used)

I replaced the wheel (new) and have not had any problems since. They just need to be TIGHT.

 

Thanks for agreeing with me, but I dont see how they are anti-theft devices. All you have to do it pop the cap off and pull the pin. The pins are simply safety devices for those who dont know how or refuse to install the wheels correctly. Not necessary at all, and not on originals. Properly installed, you could throw the pins away.

 

That's what I say. I agree with all that. It just seems most here are overlooking the fact that he is having trouble with only ONE wheel. Not all four. There's something wrong with THAT wheel, not his installation method.

 

Exactly my point... The original KO's did NOT have pins at all. Only the aftermarket ones had them.

I agree that as anti-theft devices, they leave a bit to be desired, but it just makes it more difficult (2 more steps... remove cap, remove pin) for someone to get the wheels off.

Check the ad for the aftermarket KO's sold by Corvette America. The pins are identified as "Anti-theft" pins.

http://www.corvetteamerica.com/cf/di...%20Knock%20off

 

Thanks for all the input guys.
I have checked and cleaned all the threads and the pin holes on the male and female fastener, they looked good.

I have always installed the spinner hand tight with the car raised, lowered the wheels to the ground, tightened the spinner to it's maximum. I then would have to back it up 1/32 or 1/16 to line up a hole for the pin. I would insert the pin and then hammer the spinner back or forward to hold the pin in place. The only wheel that has ever given me any problem is the left rear.

 

Best I remember, the drive pin hole diameter should be .625. Drive pin diameter should be .615. This from the original KH print. I believe the late Western adaptor may be slightly smaller on the drive pin diameter.

That's hard to see with the naked eye. I'd measure the holes.

 

This is the problem - never back the spinner up to insert a pin!! Get a big lead hammer and whack it another 3 or 4 times until the nearest pin hole lines up enough to inset the pin. By then the wheel will be so tight you don't have to hammer the spinner to hold the pin. the cap holds the pin in position. If your backing up the spinner (loosening) to insert the pin its a wonder the other wheels haven't been coming loose.

 

Here are the instructions put out by Willcox for mounting knock off wheels. Note the red print:

Repair and Installation Help from
Willcox Inc,
Corvette Parts, Service and Sales
800-588-3883 Orders
For technical assistance email us at
Willcoxcustomerservice@willcoxcorvette.c om
Normally we do not put a disclaimer on our instructions sheets until the bottom. Due to legal ramifications we will be straight forward with this and tell you this is our way of doing it. It works for us and has worked for years! Following the instructions below will NOT guarantee your wheels will stay on your car! By following these instructions, you the reader are assuming complete liability. Knock off wheels should only be installed by a professional restoration shop and should not be installed by an individual. Willcox Inc. assumes no responsibility or implies these instructions to be accurate! Willcox Inc. assumes no responsibility for damaged parts as a result of using this suggested method. Willcox Inc. only offers this as a method we would use in our own shop. As with any direction, please read entire sheet before beginning. In simplified words: Follow these instructions at your own risk!
Knock off Wheel installation:
Over the years we have experienced many customers that have installed knock off wheels only to have one come off the car. Installing original knock off wheels or the reproduction type with the pins can be easy and safe if installed properly.
Installation in the GM service manual is very vague in description, but I’ve pasted it here for you to read first.
Property of General Motors Corp.
Quick Take-Off Wheels
All operations are the same as for bolt-on wheels except for wheel removal. Vehicle is supplied with a special mallet which is used for knock-off locking nut removal (fig. 7). Note that left hand locking nuts are removed in a counter clockwise direction, right hand locking nuts in a clockwise direction.
Adapters are piloted on wheel flange and secured with hub bolts. To remove adapters remove wheel and tire assemblies and remove wheel nuts securing adapters to wheel flanges (fig. 8).
Not a ton if info here for putting on the wheels or taking them off.
All wheel and tire assemblies are to be checked for static unbalance. Add weights to the inside of the wheel at the rim edge to obtain a minimum unbalance condition of 5 oz. inches. If total weight required to balance the wheel and tire assembly exceeds 5 oz. either the tire or wheel is excessively out of balance and assembly should be rejected.
While the instructions from the service manual are of little help, I though it might be of some help to pull the factory assembly manual instruction sheet and past it below. It, like the assembly manual are of little help in installation of the wheels correctly.
Below you will find the factory sheet in the AIM for a 1964 which details the instructions.
Ok so after looking at all of this, how you install the wheels the wrong way? Easy, you put them on the car tighten up the spinner and away you go! Or, better yet you just purchased the new fangled knock off spinner installation too which includes an adapter that fits over the spinner, and a long strong arm for making sure the wheels are good and tight! If you use this tool on your can and you have not had a problem, I suggest you go the Vegas. The amount of torque for the spinner is listed above in the assembly manual at 450 ft lbs. This wrench is not capable of delivering this type of torque (unless you are the incredible hulk).
Now, how to install he wheels in what we call the best way possible! Secure yourself a good solid block of Oak or any other known hardwood. Install the wheel on the car as described in the service manual above. With the wheel on the car begin to spin the wheel spinner on the adapter hub. With the wheel still elevated, screw the spinner down until it is tight with the wheel. Using your block of wood and the original knock off hammer apply a few hard blows to the wood. (Using the wood will prolong the life of your spinner). Once you have done this move to the next wheel.
When you have all four wheels on the car you should now let the car down on the ground. We are not done yet, so do not drive your car!
Get in the car and start the engine. In a parking lot, back the car in semi hard take off and hit the brakes hard. Then pull the car forward in the same manner and hit the brakes hard again. Get out of the car and with your block of wood proceed to hammer the spinners again tightening them as you go. In our shop we repeat this three times before we deliver a car. If you have the later reproduction wheels with the safety pins, you should always tighten them until you hit the next pin hole! Never back a spinner off to hit an alignment hole, this will only cause a problem.If the wheel is not installed on the car properly a safety pin will not hold the spinner from coming off. If it’s made of aluminum, steel or any other material it will shear from the force of the wheel. Proper installation of the wheels are imperative for save operation of you vehicle.
Property of Willcox Inc. 2008 all rights reserved. Duplication, Distribution or reproduction is sticky prohibited by law. Willcox assumes no responsibility for damaged parts as a result of using this suggested method. Willcox Inc. only offers this as a method we would use in our own shop. As with any direction, please read entire sheet before beginning.