Ok I've dicked around enough and now it's time to decide on a cam for my '66 327/300 . It's in the shop waiting on my decision and I'm still not sure what to do . The engine is bored 30 over , cast iron manifold, 194 heads, stock exhaust manifolds.
I don't like to drive fast ( over 85-90) but I DO like to get up to speed quickly ! Seems from what I've read the L79 is better for top end speed and the standard grind is better for low end torque . Right ? I'm not an engine builder so lots of lift numbers and such don't mean much to me . Tell me in simple terms and give me some examples of cams that would work for me , please ! I'm thinking a hydraulic cam with a bit more umph than the stock . I want the engine to look completely stock on the outside if possible . If I change cam/valves/ lifters do I have to change from the stock steel valve covers ?
Please be kind to a non engine type guy and help me out . . I'm all ears !

 

Hi;

You have another non-engine builder here, so no numbers on lift etc. However I'm a bit confused as you profile says your car is a 383 stroker. Is that the working engine while you rebuild the original?

Have you seen some of the recent threads about modern oils and how they can damage "old style" flat tappet cams? The new oils apparently lack the necessary lubricants to protect the cams. From my point of view this should be an important part of your consideration.

In light of this problem, the conventional wisdom seems to be that using a roller cam is the easiest solution to the problem. Further that should not create any exterior change in engine appearance, from what I read.

Now, to your basic performance question. Over the years I've had a couple of 365hp-327's in '65's; and I loved them. However they really live about 4000 rpm; but don't get me wrong, they have good power below that mark. I also had a 350/350 in a '69; and that engine really pulled well also at all speeds.

I think the real issue is where does the engine develop its torque. My recollection is that all the stock 327's in mid-years make about 350 lb/ft. of torque; but how much they make at any point in the rev range can vary a bit. IMHO you want your torque down low for your regular style driving. Some guys here say 80
% of max torque at 2000rpm is the goal. I agree based on my current experience.

If I were you, the numbers I would want to know about a cam are the torque curve numbers and the red-line for that cam. That should be an easy way to know what you are getting. good luck

Rob

 

A lot will depend upon your compression ratio and heads. There is a very nice custom designed cam that is readily available from Crane Cams for the 300HP car but it does require some attention to detail during the rebuild process like the correct compression ratio, and some port work on the heads. It will idle like stock but pull hard all the way to 6,200+.

 

in my street racing days i can remember that, given everything but engines being equal, my 65 327/300 would eat a 327/350 for lunch up until 3rd gear and then the 327/350 would come flying by....

short version... the 300 was better on low end and the 350 on top end.... and, for street use, with a high ratio street rearend ratio and a CARBURETOR, stay away from the 365/375hp cams, no low end...
Bill

 

A 327/300 hp engine has all the torque you need and then some so if you lose a slight little bit on low end, it amounts to nothing. My pick of stock cams for your car would be the l-79 327/350 cam. It'll pull down to 1000 rpm in high gear and then pull away. It pulls pretty hard from almost any rpm up to close to 6000. It has a little lope in the idle. Just enough to make it sound like a Corvette should.

You can buy the cam from Speed Pro, Crane or others. May even be available from GM but it will cost you more money from them.

I'd avoid the L-82 cam. They run out of rpm too quick.

 

Why not try a GM take out, base eng cam? A real GM cam for ten bucs. I have seen the GM base plus GM flat tappet hyd lifters for a hundred. These are never spun take out pieces. I believe Duke recomended thes pieces a while back. I put one in my blazer eng rebuild. My current project is a 300hp clone 327 using the take out pieces.
good luck!
rene

 

When I had my 327/300 hp rebuilt, I too wanted a little more HP than the stock 300 hp cam, so I had the builder install the 350 hp hydraulic cam. It's a great cam, but as wmf62 says, a little less torque on the low end.

In retrospect, I wish I had gone back with the 300 hp cam, the style of driving I do lends itself much more to the torque curve of the 300 hp cam, it was good from the General in the day, and it still works well today for 95% of the driving I do. Very, very seldom do I get the rpms to take advantage of the slightly better breathing at higher revs, especially with the 3:08 rear gears I have.

My $0.02 worth . . .

 

Also need what transmission and rear end ratio you have (or will have) in your car? If a 4-speed, is it close or wide ratio? All of this will make a difference.

Larry

 

Here is the question again, so the stock cam is out.


"Tell me in simple terms and give me some examples of cams that would work for me , please ! I'm thinking a hydraulic cam with a bit more umph than the stock".

 

Without knowing the details of your build its tough to just throw out a cam. I suppose you could try the Comp Cams nostalgia version of the 300 HP cam, it has a bit more lift and a little more duration than the OEM cam, no where as much as the "151" cam does.

The "151" is really designed for some decent compression like 10-11.5:1. To improve the the low end when using the "151" simply install it 4 degrees advanced at the loss of a few RPM up high.

 

As to the tranny and rear ration .... 4 spd muncie std type and 3.36 rear end ratio .
After reading these posts I'm gravatating toward a hydraulic 300 hp type cam . I think my compression will be around the stock number, dont think the block has to be decked alot if at all . And the heads might get some minor work around the valves . cast flat top pistons .

 

You could try a retro roller, a ton of lift, say .47"- .50" and not too much duration, maybe 218 or there about, that combo should give you low end torque and top end power. Call Comp cams and ask them.

Doug

 

Just don't deck it if it's the original block or goodbye numbers, unless they can somehow do it and not touch the pad.

 

I think you're on the right track.

 

Which ever you choose, just be warned, the 300 hp cam will be all done about 4800 rpm. Not very sexy for a performance car. But it does work well. Nice broad torque curve. I have built a 327/300 with a 350hp "151" cam. It also worked well... a very nice set up with some extra revs.

Harry

 

[QUOTE=wmf62;1567313410]in my street racing days i can remember that, given everything but engines being equal, my 65 327/300 would eat a 327/350 for lunch up until 3rd gear and then the 327/350 would come flying by....:


Ya' know, it's a funny thing about memory. I don't remember it that way at all.

I had a 327/350 (still have it). Firstly, I wouldn't waste my time/tires/gas racing a 300 horse car unless it was convenient. Secondly, if we did race, the 300 was behind as soon as the clutch pedals came out and it kept getting worse and worse and worse and................

If you happen to be drag racing, your engine should NEVER get down in the rpm range where the 300 hp cam has a very slight, couple ft lbs torque advantage unless you might be using a PG will a low stall converter.

 

[QUOTE=MikeM;1567320864
I had a 327/350 (still have it). Firstly, I wouldn't waste my time/tires/gas racing a 300 horse car unless it was convenient. Secondly, if we did race, the 300 was behind as soon as the clutch pedals came out and it kept getting worse and worse and worse and................[/QUOTE]

Mike
you're right about memories.... i wish i still had that car ...

Bill

 

Not wanting to recommend anything, I will say that my brother has a stock 65 327/300 with an automatic trans and a 3.08 rear. Being the experimenters that we are, we wanted to try a cam a little more (not wanting to say up-to-date) aggressive than the stock 300 cam he had. We installed the smallest Lunati Voodoo cam, I think the 60100, which has a little more lift and duration than the 300 cam. Has good low end, idles smoothly with a throaty sound, and pulls like a son-of-a-gun up to 5000. Would easily do it again. Just thought I would add our experiences.

 

I'm open to all suggestions that fit my needs. I will check out the Lunati Voodoo cam . I've never looked at them at all so thanks for the info !

 

If you want to improve your engine's performance, then you should retain your L75 cam, and have the heads pocket ported. As stated earlier, a 327 with stock heads, exhaust and induction is capable of developing about 350 ft-lbs of torque..............camshaft selection only determines WHERE in the rev range that maximum torque is achieved.
Pocket porting will raise the torque numbers across the entire RPM band by about 5-10 per cent. Your engine will retain its current character, and the builder should insure that your stock static compression ratio is maintained at 10.5:1.