Hey Guys, I have a 62 that I am getting ready to swap the motors out. I will be running aluminum heads on a 327 and was curious on headers? I did a search and found some good info but still have a couple of questions. Are the full lengths better than the tight tuck that corvette central offers from patriot? In my searching on here it seams that nobody liked the way they fit. I have some full lengths on there now but looks like my dad had to do some serious banging to get them in on the left side, plus they are in bad shape. I am looking at putting the headers on as I install the motor. Is that the best way to do it or will I encounter problems trying to do it that way? And for you C1 guys what headers seam to work the best as far as fitment issues go. Thanks in advance guys!

 

The correct headers fit fine without bending. Hedman, Hooker and Doug Thorley (if tehy still make C1 headers) all fit.

Read the installation instructions that come with the headers!, but yes if your motor is still not fully set onto the motor mount,a nd your clutch linkage isn't in, they are a snap to install during motor install, I kind of wired mine in place to the sides of the frame prior to dropping the motor/trans into the car.

Doug

 

I have had three sets on the car in my avatar since 1977. The current set are Hooker Comp headers are 1 5/8" full length with the ceramic coating. They fit great without any hammering. Changing plugs also is pretty reasonable. The first set I had were so small they were headers in name only. My last set which were large tube headers needed a hammer in a couple of areas but the biggest drawback was that they hug down too low.

The Hooker comps fit and look great but I would be interested to hear if any guys are running the Hooker Super comps which are 1 3/4".-Jim

 

Thanks Jim and doug. Do you guys have part numbers for these headers? I tried looking up the Headman and I couldn't find them ceramic coated?

 

Michael, I bought my Hooker comps from Summit and the # for ceramic coated is HOK-2456-1HKR for $379.95. You can get the same headers painted for $179.95 and the painted Super comps for $449.95.-Jim

 

On my '58 I tried everything I could to get the 1 5/8" Hooker comps in with the engine in place. The instructions said they should drop right in but after 4 hours of frustration, I still couldn't get the driver side in. I ended up unbolting the engine mount and jacking the driver side of the engine up about 3" and they went right in.

 

I am using these in a 60 with a 327 and a H PIPE with Flowmaster 44's..

 

Hedman may not offer them coated, i bought their std C1 headers, welded some O2 sensor bungs into the collectors and took them to Jet Hot to get coated. The local Jet Hot place is 3 miles from me, FWIW.

Doug

 

Is ceramic coating the way to go inside our small engine compartment? and how does the coating hold up over time? Thanks for all you help guys. This has helped me out a lot!

 

YES!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
I have ceramic coated headers on the 70 Chevelle. Been there about 10yrs. STILL look good.
I have the 2 1/2in iron Ram Horn manifolds on the 56 which are coated. Only way to go.
And yes, it DOES make a difference who does the ceramic coating. SOME are not so good.

 

I just finished a couple of months ago putting on Hooker headers from Summit. All in all, they went in ok but here are some things to keep in mind:

1) The passenger side it is easier to install from the top than the bottom as instructions specify.
2) Buy the brackets that hooker identifies for PS and DS. Generic brackets won't work. This is applicable to generator & expansion tank
3) You'll need to work the expansion tank a little bit because it fits too close to the valve cover. I used some left-over shock bushings between the mounting bracket and the expansion tank bracket.
4) You'll have to remove the clutch linkage as identified in the instruction. You'll also need a short oil filter as per instructions.
5) Of course, you'll need to rework the exhaust to fit.
6) Make sure you have some stubby wrenches
7) Purchase header bolts from ARP or other brand. The ones Hooker provide have too large of a head. This makes installing them in tight areas around tubes very difficult. An additional problem is that they only give you two long bolts to use for brackets. You'll need four depending on your situation.

The only problems that I've encountered are:

1) The driver side collector rests against the frame. This doesn't prevent installation but I do not like it that way. Curious if other 62/header installs have same issue
2) The driver side exhaust fit just right after shortening the pipe that goes to the muffler. However, the passenger does not. You'll need approximately 2 1/4 in. offset pipe to line it up with exhaust cutouts.
3) The passenger side collector sits directly under the starter. The heat from the collector tends to loosen a couple of bolts on my oil pan causing an oil leak. I've retightened this recently but haven't drove the car too much to see if it fixes the problem.

Below are some pictures. Sorry the second one isn't that good but it is the only one I have of that side.

Jim

 

The collector flanges on my Hedmans were almost touching the frame rail, and they rattled against the frame a bit, so i took a plasma cutter and took a 3/8" deep bite out of the lower C channel frame extension on each side to give a little more clearance.

Doug

 

Thanks Doug,

I need a little exhaust work so I'll have that done. As mentioned, it doesn't stop anything but the flange definitely rests against the frame. Glad I'm not the only one : )

Jim

 

Hedman does make a ceramic coat. Check on Summit or Jeg's site (I think I have the box in the barn, if I can find it, I'll post the #)
One thing though the left side is a very tight fit and I had to notch the frame support piece to clear (I'm never selling my car, so I don't care). It's a smooth notch, but it had to be done

 

Come to think of it, I had to notch my frame rail on the right about 3/16" to clear the #2 primary pipe.

The Doug Thorley headers I had in the past fit without notching anything on the frame as they tucked in tighter to the center line of the car, but they wouldn't work with the angle plug heads I have. The Thorleys won't clear a scatter shield unless you notch the scatter shield

Doug

 

I found the box for the hedman ceramic coated headers. The Hedman number is 68136, for summit racing catalog it is HED-68136. I've had mine on for over three years and still look the same. No problem changing plugs or getting bolts started (Dart Iron Eagle Heads, straight plug), I also like the ball-style collector, gives you more to play with to connect to the exhaust.