Head problems (studs)
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 995
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From: Alhambra CA
Re: Head problems (Mike Miller)
You can carefully tap them back down and sometimes they will stay.
Someone of the forum said something about staking them in palce with a punch but I don't remember how they said to do it..
Be careful tapping them back home.. A little at a time.
Real question is what caused them to pull up??
Too of heavy springs?
I'm sure other will offer their advice as well
Tony
Someone of the forum said something about staking them in palce with a punch but I don't remember how they said to do it..
Be careful tapping them back home.. A little at a time.
Real question is what caused them to pull up??
Too of heavy springs?
I'm sure other will offer their advice as well
Tony
Thread Starter
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 75
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From: Mount Pleasant SC
Re: Head problems (pittsaj)
Tony,
I'm sure the cause was my big foot. I have been tweaking with the timing on this car for a while and decided to get rid of the points. Before it would only turn about 4800 rpms before it would start popping. When I put the change over kit in, I took it for a test drive and pushed it to 7000 rpms! I think I got the electrical part fixed :yesnod: Thanks for your reply, I'll go get a hammer.
Mike
I'm sure the cause was my big foot. I have been tweaking with the timing on this car for a while and decided to get rid of the points. Before it would only turn about 4800 rpms before it would start popping. When I put the change over kit in, I took it for a test drive and pushed it to 7000 rpms! I think I got the electrical part fixed :yesnod: Thanks for your reply, I'll go get a hammer.
Mike
Instructor
Joined: Dec 2000
Posts: 131
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From: beverly ma,
Re: Head problems (Mike Miller)
Mike
Last Sat. I dropped off my heads for a valve job and some porting .I asked the guy about screw in studs as a freind had mentioned them to me as this will avoid problems like your having now. One way he explained was called pinning them ,what they would do is drill a hole 90 * (degrees)to the stud in the head then insert a pin. When I spoke to him last pm he said the machine shop does'nt like to do that anymore. And I should probably go with screw in studs,where they remove the old ones ,tap the holes and screw in new ones.
Last Sat. I dropped off my heads for a valve job and some porting .I asked the guy about screw in studs as a freind had mentioned them to me as this will avoid problems like your having now. One way he explained was called pinning them ,what they would do is drill a hole 90 * (degrees)to the stud in the head then insert a pin. When I spoke to him last pm he said the machine shop does'nt like to do that anymore. And I should probably go with screw in studs,where they remove the old ones ,tap the holes and screw in new ones.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 1999
Posts: 3,632
Likes: 14
From: Fountain Hills AZ
Re: Head problems (Mike Miller)
If they've pulled once, they're likely to pull again even easier the next time. Like BC66 posted, pinning them is an option but converting to screw in is preferable.
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 75
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From: Mount Pleasant SC
Re: Head problems (aobrien)
Well, I am a DIY guy and I learned something. I bought some ARP stups and tapped out one of the holes but it will not work. The heads have to come off and the boss has to be machined down before the studs will work. If you don't, there is not enough threads on the bolt to make adjustments. The rocker arm will bottom out on top of the hex head of new stud. Just thought I would mention this before anyone else was thinking about doing it themselves. This job is going to take at least a 1/2 of a case to get started. :cheers:
Mike
Mike
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 1999
Posts: 6,134
Likes: 46
From: Raleigh North Carolina
Re: Head problems (Mike Miller)
Pioneer makes a set of screw in rocker studs that do not have the nut machined in... $16/set from PAW.
You do not have to cut the valve guide down to use these... easy fix.
Flip side is that you cannot use these to hold pushrod guides, but this should not be a problem in your case.
You might be able to get them at an autoparts store that stocks Pioneer valve train parts.
I am an engine builder, and I use a lot of Pioneer stuff... it's been good for me.
Tom
You do not have to cut the valve guide down to use these... easy fix.
Flip side is that you cannot use these to hold pushrod guides, but this should not be a problem in your case.
You might be able to get them at an autoparts store that stocks Pioneer valve train parts.
I am an engine builder, and I use a lot of Pioneer stuff... it's been good for me.
Tom
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Joined: May 2001
Posts: 75
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From: Mount Pleasant SC
Re: Head problems (Tom454)
Thanks for all of the replys. I took Toms advice and bought some studs but they were made my Dorman. I put them in on just the ones that pulled out. Only problem I had was that they wanted to back out while is I was adjusting the valves. While I had the motor down this far I checked my damper by using Lars TDC paper and found that it was not off but by one or two degrees. I went ahead and marked 36 degrees on it and followed Lars Timing procedure. I took the car for a ride and it ran great. For some reason it feels like it has more power at 5000 rpms then before, I think it was because the valves were not adjusted right. I am having a 383 built and it should be ready for spring, maybe this motor will hold up till then.
Thanks again
Mike
Thanks again
Mike