Cliff Notes - Rear wheel bearing replacement
11-11-2008, 07:29 PM
#1
Drifting
Thread Starter
Cliff Notes - Rear wheel bearing replacement
I have looked around here and other sites related to rear wheel bearing replacement. What I do not understand is if I need to remove the trailing arm assembly to replace the wheel bearing. Looks like bearing replacement is quite a bit of work and expense.
11-11-2008, 07:39 PM
#2
Tech Contributor
They can be done in the car but that's not how I do them. You can buy kits to rebuild them and the tools from just about any vendor. I personally wouldn't recommend those either as the shims are too wide in range to dial in the endplay. Add to that the bell spacers are usually not parallel,the flange faces are beatup and the kit shims sometimes rough turned.The best way to build them is grind everything that mates flat so that when you go from a setup tool to spindle press the endplay stays where you set it. Many people and places will rebuild them but you should first do some homework as they are not all built the same. You can check Barry K's site for procedures or lookup my threads if they're still here.
Good luck.
Good luck.
11-12-2008, 10:37 AM
#3
Drifting
Your not that far from Gary if you need a rebuild.
His previous detailed pictorial posts and meeting him at Carlisle last summer and his knowledge/experience (should have bought some bearings Gary had but was amazed at the details and info he shared and forgot, Gary thanks for the water too for my sons and I) therefore would use and recommend him.
John
His previous detailed pictorial posts and meeting him at Carlisle last summer and his knowledge/experience (should have bought some bearings Gary had but was amazed at the details and info he shared and forgot, Gary thanks for the water too for my sons and I) therefore would use and recommend him.
John
11-14-2008, 07:24 PM
#4
I have always done my own work, and I did mine on the car, without taking the control arms off (control arm front bolts frozen) with the right tools, and it is not hard, but it is a pain in the A$$. Unless you are really, really bored, or can't make next months mortgage payment, I would pull the arms if you are so inclined and have them rebuilt -- otherwise have someone do the whole thing (expensive).
By the way, before I rebuilt mine, one rear bearing ran very noisy and felt a little loose to me, but it lasted for another 75,000 miles and 5 years!! Only when the noise changed, did I change it out - so make sure you really need it. Thats why companys advertise lifetime warranty on thier rebuilds - they are hard to kill................
By the way, before I rebuilt mine, one rear bearing ran very noisy and felt a little loose to me, but it lasted for another 75,000 miles and 5 years!! Only when the noise changed, did I change it out - so make sure you really need it. Thats why companys advertise lifetime warranty on thier rebuilds - they are hard to kill................
11-14-2008, 08:23 PM
#5
Former Vendor
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St. Jude Donor '08-'09-'10-'11-'12-'13-'14-'15
As GTR1999 said, the parts are never are perfect when we take them apart. In most case we will put the spacer in our lathe and dress the ends for accuracy.
You can buy the tools, and spend the money to set them up, but my advice is save your money form tools, this is usually a one time thing! Drive up to Gary’s and let him do them if he is that close! This is not an endorsement for Gary, his post speak volumes to his knowledge of the cars. (Ok, I’ve read enough of his post to know he knows what the heck he’s doing, so yes it’s an endorsement). Plus, your to far to drive here.
By the time you purchase the bearing press, the set up tool, the shims, and/or the knock out tool, and then if you don’t have one a magnet dial indicator you could just have Gary do them for you and I’m sure you will come out ahead.
I also agree, different companies build them differently. I’ve seen some vendors advertise they set the clearance up to .0000? The GM spec on the end play is 0 – 8 thousandths. While I’m not a fan of 8 thousandths it would be within GM specs. I like to run them between 3 – 4 thousandths. The trick for us is that we have the lathe to make adjustments in the spacer if we can not get the set up clearance we want with normal shimming.
Willcox
You can buy the tools, and spend the money to set them up, but my advice is save your money form tools, this is usually a one time thing! Drive up to Gary’s and let him do them if he is that close! This is not an endorsement for Gary, his post speak volumes to his knowledge of the cars. (Ok, I’ve read enough of his post to know he knows what the heck he’s doing, so yes it’s an endorsement). Plus, your to far to drive here.
By the time you purchase the bearing press, the set up tool, the shims, and/or the knock out tool, and then if you don’t have one a magnet dial indicator you could just have Gary do them for you and I’m sure you will come out ahead.
I also agree, different companies build them differently. I’ve seen some vendors advertise they set the clearance up to .0000? The GM spec on the end play is 0 – 8 thousandths. While I’m not a fan of 8 thousandths it would be within GM specs. I like to run them between 3 – 4 thousandths. The trick for us is that we have the lathe to make adjustments in the spacer if we can not get the set up clearance we want with normal shimming.
Willcox
