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Heater Control Switch Nut Install/Remove Tool

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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 05:34 PM
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Default Heater Control Switch Nut Install/Remove Tool

Anybody aware of a vendor that makes such an item? I have to replace my '61's heater control switch and the subject nut is stuck in place.
Thanks for any suggestion(s) you might have.
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 06:23 PM
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If the heater switch is held on with the split face nuts like the C2's, you should be able to use a brass drift to remove the nut by hitting the nut in the space counter clockwise. Jerry
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 06:54 PM
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LICS lists them for C-2s in catalog section 55 -- $9. Don't know if its the same nut though (yours is a 61?)

Harry
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 08:28 PM
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I've made a lot of tools for removing split faced nuts from an old socket. Find one the right size and rough grind out enough of the socket to leave the number of tangs on the socket with a 4" grinder or similar. You can file them accurately to size with a hand file. Takes almost longer to tell about it than to make one, I've got a cheap set of Taiwan sockets I've cut up especially for this purpose.

You don't need a square drive socket wrench in those cases where the control protrudes through the socket square drive, just grab it with a pair of pliers. I don't have time to wait on an order for some special tool to come in, nor the inclination to order a tool for some item I'll probably use only once or twice in 20 years.

Just what I do, don't mean to dis anyone who chooses to buy and use the tools made for the purpose.

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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 09:10 PM
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Originally Posted by 66since71
LICS lists them for C-2s in catalog section 55 -- $9. Don't know if its the same nut though (yours is a 61?)

Harry
Nope, it's too small. I have one of these tools for my '65 but it won't work on a '61 though.
Thanks anyway!
Jack

Last edited by jackcasa; Nov 16, 2008 at 09:20 PM.
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 09:17 PM
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Originally Posted by Tampa Jerry
If the heater switch is held on with the split face nuts like the C2's, you should be able to use a brass drift to remove the nut by hitting the nut in the space counter clockwise. Jerry
It's not a split-faced nut but rather an internal threaded cylinder with a hole thru the center and four "notches' to accept the special tool for removal/installation. The face of this chrome plated nut is flat which makes the special tool a necessity 'cause you can't get a drift punch into the slots.
Jack
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Old Nov 16, 2008 | 09:19 PM
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Originally Posted by jackcasa
It's not a split-faced nut but rather an internal threaded cylinder with a hole thru the center and four "notches' to accept the special tool for removal/installation. The face of this chrome plated nut is flat which makes the special tool a necessity 'cause you can't get a drift punch into the slots.
Jack
Hi Jack,
I only mention this because it worked on my 62 - 27 years ago...

I used a small, flat blade screw driver in one of the slots at an oblique angle relative to the face of the nut. Then I gently tapped on the screw driver handle with a small hammer in order to tap the nut counterclockwise.

Jeff
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Old Nov 17, 2008 | 08:43 AM
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Originally Posted by Ron Miller
I've made a lot of tools for removing split faced nuts from an old socket. Find one the right size and rough grind out enough of the socket to leave the number of tangs on the socket with a 4" grinder or similar. You can file them accurately to size with a hand file. Takes almost longer to tell about it than to make one, I've got a cheap set of Taiwan sockets I've cut up especially for this purpose.

You don't need a square drive socket wrench in those cases where the control protrudes through the socket square drive, just grab it with a pair of pliers. I don't have time to wait on an order for some special tool to come in, nor the inclination to order a tool for some item I'll probably use only once or twice in 20 years.

Just what I do, don't mean to dis anyone who chooses to buy and use the tools made for the purpose.

Originally Posted by jackcasa
It's not a split-faced nut but rather an internal threaded cylinder with a hole thru the center and four "notches' to accept the special tool for removal/installation. The face of this chrome plated nut is flat which makes the special tool a necessity 'cause you can't get a drift punch into the slots.
Jack
You still should be able to get the proper diameter socket, grind and file it down to a couple of proper width tangs at 180 degrees apart and use it to remove the nut. Should you choose to do so . . . .

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Old Nov 17, 2008 | 04:51 PM
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Originally Posted by Ron Miller
You still should be able to get the proper diameter socket, grind and file it down to a couple of proper width tangs at 180 degrees apart and use it to remove the nut. Should you choose to do so . . . .

Got it!
Thanks all for the advice.
Jack
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Old Nov 17, 2008 | 05:50 PM
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In a pinch you might be able to use a pair if needle-nose pliers and use each of the prongs in the slots on the nuts.

That is, if they are the same as they are in my 64.
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Old Nov 17, 2008 | 09:46 PM
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Originally Posted by Classic-Chevy-Guy
In a pinch you might be able to use a pair if needle-nose pliers and use each of the prongs in the slots on the nuts.

That is, if they are the same as they are in my 64.
They are not - I have a '65 as well as the '61 - but thanks anyway.
Jack
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