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Anyone got a pic of one without the canvas? Mine seems to be missing a part or two. (1) 2nd bow up from the rear has a few holes on each side of the curved section with nothing there. Tack strip? (2) I have the two brackets that are on the bottom bow that secure to the holes in the hatch but there seems to be like a couple 1/4 X 20 bolts in there. Must be something else. Oh here's a couple pics, thanks
Anyone got a pic of one without the canvas? Mine seems to be missing a part or two. (1) 2nd bow up from the rear has a few holes on each side of the curved section with nothing there. There for the padTack strip?No (2) I have the two brackets that are on the bottom bow that secure to the holes in the hatch but there seems to be like a couple 1/4 X 20 bolts in there.are screws holes to hold the brackets Must be something else. Oh here's a couple pics, thanks
Your top frame is complete. The bow behind your front header is fine. The holes are for 8/32 screws that hold your top pads in place. There will be a small finishing washer under each screw used so the head of the screw does not go through the material as it attaches to the bow.
The latch on the rear bow should not have a 1/4x20 screw sticking down through the decklid. Part of the latch is missing. The serrated hook is missing. It will be spring loaded.
Your top frame looks to be painted black over original tan colored paint??? To have a top for flipper moldings, as your car does, your car should be under vin 3050 or so. The outer body mounts are exposed from the interior. This was done around car vin 1200 or so.
The holes in your doors are round. If the car was very early at all, the holes for the latches access would be rectangular, cut by hand. The round holes in your doors were cut with a hole saw.
Also, check the hole in the seat divider. Is it round or rectangular?
Probably rectangular, if the top frame is original. Later tops have a bend for the lack of flipper moldings .
Last edited by 53 Blue Flame Brett; Nov 19, 2008 at 11:46 PM.
Serial is #4545 (3545) so it's a pretty late production. There are (2)chrome bolt type assemblys that fasten to the hatch with holes in the center which I assume some type of pin (not the 1/4X20's) comming off the rear bow would slide into. I can't seem to figure out how the spring latch would hold the rear bow down if it's attached to my already attached pictured bracket on the rear bow.
Are you talking about the hole in the seat divider where the hatch latches down?
Dave, Your rear bow latch is missing the serrated male part that inserts into the oval female part. I just happened to have these out on the bench to start putting my top together.
With your vin number past the 3000 mark, you need the later top frame without the flipper moldings that were used in 53-early54.
I have a late top frame that I would gladly trade you for your early top frame. I need an early top frame for one of my cars. You won't need the more expensive, incorrect, flipper moldings either.
Duntov 54, Where can springs for these sawtooth latches be found? There is a RH and LH in these by the way the spring is wound. I need a couple for a '54. Thanks
Serial is #4545 (3545) so it's a pretty late production. There are (2)chrome bolt type assemblys that fasten to the hatch with holes in the center which I assume some type of pin (not the 1/4X20's) comming off the rear bow would slide into. I can't seem to figure out how the spring latch would hold the rear bow down if it's attached to my already attached pictured bracket on the rear bow.
Are you talking about the hole in the seat divider where the hatch latches down?
That hole could be called a drain hole for water not for a pin, And if you have them chromed you then need to file the saw teeth sharp to grab and hold the female unit
[QUOTE=Duntov 54;1567914350]Dave, Your rear bow latch is missing the serrated male part that inserts into the oval female part. I just happened to have these out on the bench to start putting my top together.
A-hah! I get it now. Amazing how a picture straightens out my tweeked brain at times. Thanks
With your vin number past the 3000 mark, you need the later top frame without the flipper moldings that were used in 53-early54.
I have a late top frame that I would gladly trade you for your early top frame. I need an early top frame for one of my cars. You won't need the more expensive, incorrect, flipper moldings either.