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60 Electrical problem

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Old Dec 12, 2008 | 06:58 PM
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Default 60 Electrical problem

I just bought a 60 and noticed new battery discharges with everything off and generator gets hot. I am not electrical smart. Test light on A terminal of Generator lights. There is power constant to Generator. Is Voltage regulator an issue? How do I test? Where do I start. thanks Don
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Old Dec 12, 2008 | 07:18 PM
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Originally Posted by bigblock67
I just bought a 60 and noticed new battery discharges with everything off and generator gets hot. I am not electrical smart. Test light on A terminal of Generator lights. There is power constant to Generator. Is Voltage regulator an issue? How do I test? Where do I start. thanks Don
Sounds like discharging back through the regulator (regulator contacts stuck closed). Recommend disconnecting the battery until you get it fixed.

Order a ST-12 Shop manual for repair, but for the charging system you will need the 58 Passenger Car manual and then you might as well get the 59-60 Supplement (available at the NCRS store, among many others). http://www.ncrs.org/store/shop.cgi/p...29127585.20218

Plasticman

Last edited by Plasticman; Dec 12, 2008 at 07:21 PM.
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Old Dec 12, 2008 | 08:15 PM
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If you have battery voltage at the generator Batt terminal when the car is not running it could be the regualtor.
Generator regulators have three coils in them. One controls the generator voltage output, one controls the current output and the other is called the 'current cutout relay'.
This is the one I would suspect is your problem.
It is designed to only let voltage flow from the generator to the battery and not the other way.
I would replace the regulator.
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Old Dec 13, 2008 | 09:46 AM
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Originally Posted by plaidside
If you have battery voltage at the generator Batt terminal when the car is not running it could be the regualtor.
Generator regulators have three coils in them. One controls the generator voltage output, one controls the current output and the other is called the 'current cutout relay'.
This is the one I would suspect is your problem.
It is designed to only let voltage flow from the generator to the battery and not the other way.
I would replace the regulator.
And as I tell all the generator-crowd....if you want to go with a solid state unit I know a gentlemen that does the conversions! Fits under original V/R housing too.

Don't even think about using a solid-state alternator V/R either - they don't work for generator cars...
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Old Dec 13, 2008 | 10:06 PM
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Default 1960 generator smoking

Similar experience to Don today. Started my recently purchased 1960 and let it warm up. I had replaced the battery last week. After five minutes of idiling, open the hood, the generator was smoking out of both ends. When it would not stop smoking after a few minutes after engine was turned off, I guessed it best to disconnect the battery. 30 minutes later, the generator was still hot! Wonder if the generator survived or if it can be salvaged? My mechanical skills are very limited. I can purchase a regulator or a generator and replace but that will be the extent of my abilities. Any suggestions appreciated. Gary
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Old Dec 14, 2008 | 09:54 AM
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Default Hot generator

Gary, After starting this thread and things cooled down, I disconnected and recharged battery. Also banged on regulator case. Problem is for now gone. Though the generator was very hot, guage works fine and short is gone. Wouldnt get in a hurry R&R ing Generator yet. I am putting a new regulator on probably today.
Touching battery cable to battery post will create an arc if there is a problem. Also remove negative battery cable from battery. Take a simple test light and clip one end to negative cable and the pointer on negative battery post. If it lights there is an open circut of short. Test light should not light if all is normal. I am also challenged in electrics and spelling.
Don
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Old Dec 14, 2008 | 10:44 AM
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Originally Posted by bigblock67
Touching battery cable to battery post will create an arc if there is a problem.
Or if your door is open (interior light drawing current) or headlight switch is on, etc. - doesn't always indicate a problem.

Also remove negative battery cable from battery. Take a simple test light and clip one end to negative cable and the pointer on negative battery post. If it lights there is an open circut of short. Test light should not light if all is normal. I am also challenged in electrics and spelling.
Don
Basically - a repeat of the same test as above...current will flow if there is a 'draw' regardless of which cable is disconnected for testing.
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Old Dec 15, 2008 | 12:11 PM
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Default Follow up much appreciated

You guys are great, both responsive and knowledgable. Just joined the forum and glad I did. Will try your follow up points tonight and advise. Thanks again.
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Old Dec 26, 2008 | 11:33 PM
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Default Got it fixed!!

Appreciate responding members, replaced the voltage regulator, noticed the belt needed replaced and the front bolt under the front of the generator gone. After replacing bolt, engine running smooth. The generator was not cooked at least I hope not Thanks again
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Old Dec 27, 2008 | 07:32 AM
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You did the right thing replacing the V/R....I've had mixed luck trying to readjust them after they get to a certain age....if your generator is working OK I wouldn't worry too much. Unless the insulation is burnt off the internal windings and is causing a short those components can take more abuse than one would think.
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