I just removed the water pump to remove a fitting from it, and wondered if it is always needed to replace the gaskets? They are about 2 weeks old, and the car ran about 3 minutes with them at idle...

 

If they aren't torn or de-laminated, slop some sealer on them and you're good to go.

 

If they didn't stick or pull apart, and didn't leak before, leave them. Once they have been compressed to fit your pump, they should be fine as long as they stay in the same position. If you took them off, I would replace them with new.

 

I'm sure that they will be fine but I'm sure that any of your local auto parts stores have the gaskets for a few bucks. If they are not torn tough just throw some more sealer on them. They'll be good as new.

 

THey are pretty cheap. I would replace them just incase. Avoid the time loss and frustration of leaky gaskets

 

Hitch you use that sealer above? Not Permatex #2? Or does it matter?

And cobrastang I know what you are saying, but it seems the more I mess with this thing (water pump and gaskets) the more F-ed up things get.

 

So, you got that plug out? Make sure you put the next one in with some anti-seize. That miserable grey stuff works really well.

Rich

 

Not yet.. today or tomorrow once I find a friend available with a welder...

 

Permatex #2 has served me well for over 40 years. However, many folks more knowledgeable/experienced than me swear by the Permatex Aviation Sealant.

I promised myself that I would begin using it on my next project. You should follow Hitch's advice.

Larry

 

Old Indian Head gasket cement (plain shellac) still 100 % effective on gaskets, holds for fitting and seals well. good luck Abe G

 

Well I replaced the old gaskets, reinstalled the water pump and everything else and ran the engine... no leaks so far. I filled it with distilled water only so I wouldn't have antifreeze go over everything for the 4th time. But so far so good.

One thing I noticed after checking for leaks is that the Aviation sealant is still gooey.. The Permatex #2 has usually hardened by now ( 4 hours since applied) but this stuff has not. Should I wait a bit before driving to let it cure or not worry about it?

 

most gasket sealers, rtv, etc need 24 hours to cure. I always wait the 24 hours before starting the motor.

 

Well too late.. it only ran for about 1 minute to check for leaks.

 

You are probably ok. Just don't run again for 24 hours.

 

Not to worry. Do you think ANY garage waits 24 hours for the sealer to set up? Never gonna happen. It ran and didn't leak, it will be fine.

Rich

 

Yep it'll be fine. The stuff I recommended is not a sealer it's made to remain plyable. This is what provides a good seal. I use it on fuel pumps,water pumps and timing chain covers. Works like a charm on that type of gasket material. Dave

 

I agree it will be fine but I usually make sure it is cured before testing. Here is the manufacturer guideline:

DIRECTIONS FOR USE
1. Remove all previous material from mating surfaces.
Permatex Gasket Remover is recommended for most
materials, not for plastics or painted surfaces.
2. For best results, clean and dry all surfaces with a
residue-free solvent, such as Permatex Brake and
Parts Cleaner.
3. Remove cap and coat with brush-top applicator.
4. When used as a gasket dressing, spread product with
a spatula to a uniform film on one side of gasket and
then position it on the assembly. Coat the second side
of gasket and re-assemble. Slower drying formula
increases work time.
5. Assembly is operational after 4 hours, full cure is
effective after 24 hours.

 

Back to indian head gasket cement (shellac) dries and sets in 15 minutes! enough said. Abe G