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First let me say that I am not trying to fool anyone into thinking this is an original frame.
I'm building a resto-rod. 572, 200R4, Bowtie OD 1968 crossmember, Tom's differential, half shafts, axles and trailing arms, Van steel semi-coilover, QA-1 DA shocks, R&P power steering, hydroboost brakes, SSBC aluminum calipers, etc. So you can see that there is no possibility of the car being presented as anything other than what it is.
I purchased a replacement frame from Michigan Vette Products. The original frame was rusted beyond repair and will be scrapped as repair parts and / or scrap metal. I will keep the section of the driver side rail and kick-up where the VIN might have been stamped even though there is no chance of finding it.
I would like to stamp the VIN in the replacement frame in the original locations with the same style numerals. What height are those numbers / characters and what is the location in relation to an identifiable point on the frame.
First let me say that I am not trying to fool anyone into thinking this is an original frame.
I'm building a resto-rod. 572, 200R4, Bowtie OD 1968 crossmember, Tom's differential, half shafts, axles and trailing arms, Van steel semi-coilover, QA-1 DA shocks, R&P power steering, hydroboost brakes, SSBC aluminum calipers, etc. So you can see that there is no possibility of the car being presented as anything other than what it is.
I purchased a replacement frame from Michigan Vette Products. The original frame was rusted beyond repair and will be scrapped as repair parts and / or scrap metal. I will keep the section of the driver side rail and kick-up where the VIN might have been stamped even though there is no chance of finding it.
I would like to stamp the VIN in the replacement frame in the original locations with the same style numerals. What height are those numbers / characters and what is the location in relation to an identifiable point on the frame.
Fire suit - on. I'm ready.
Sand blast those areas, it may still show up.
If it does, just section it out and weld it on top of the new frame.
What I should have done in '91 when I changed 'Old Blue's' frame.
I'll try that, but the rust is the kind that comes off in large flakes so I am assuming that the rust has penetrated the depth of the stamping.
Without information, I will just stamp the frame with a stamp set I can get from a tool supply to provide a documentation link between the replacement chassis and body. My plan was to add my initials as a suffix to the VIN. All of this would be easier and I would be satisfied if Michigan Vette serial numbered their frame and included that number on the sale receipt.
I'll try that, but the rust is the kind that comes off in large flakes so I am assuming that the rust has penetrated the depth of the stamping.
Without information, I will just stamp the frame with a stamp set I can get from a tool supply to provide a documentation link between the replacement chassis and body. My plan was to add my initials as a suffix to the VIN. All of this would be easier and I would be satisfied if Michigan Vette serial numbered their frame and included that number on the sale receipt.
What would be even better is if M.Vette would put on Vin #'s on request so you would not need to do it yourself...i know there is some legal mumbo jumbo here but just a thought...
Without information, I will just stamp the frame with a stamp set I can get from a tool supply to provide a documentation link between the replacement chassis and body. My plan was to add my initials as a suffix to the VIN.
Vogie I can certainly appreciate your desire to mark the new frame, if nothing else to protect you in case of theft. Nobody wants their car confiscated because of VIN issues.
Do you have any insight into legal issues (if any) of stamping a VIN on a different frame? I'd probably double check with the state before proceeding. Maybe see about getting a law enforcement officer to do some sort of inspection and sign off on it before you cover it up with a car body.
Heck if your primary goal happens to be theft protection, just stamp your name and date in the top frame rail in a place you can still access with a mirror once the car is installed. Then you could easily prove you have involvement with that vehicle if it is stolen and recovered.
I guess I don't see any problem with stamping the frame with his original vin number as long as he advises any buyer of the replacement frame and re-stamp. The vin is usually covering the body. When the authorities inspect a vehicle they don't even ask a question about the frame. They simply look at the vin plate on the vehicle to see that it matches the vin on the title.
In working insurance claims we had to replace numerous frames on vehicles and never had to notify any state authority that the frame was replaced. The seller simply had to disclose that the repairs exceeded a certain dollar amount on the whole vehicle and that figure was dependent on the state in which the repairs were made.
If you put magnaflux on the frame rail and then get a black light from the cold work done on the frame it should show up. I have done this now five times for other people and each time with a little patience it can work. It will also show the size it needs to be obviously.
If you put magnaflux on the frame rail and then get a black light from the cold work done on the frame it should show up. I have done this now five times for other people and each time with a little patience it can work. It will also show the size it needs to be obviously.
I'm sure that would work if I had magnaflux equipment on hand , and so might an acid etch process if I had the machinery and a microscope ; but I was hoping someone with a restoration in process might be able to walk into their garage and hold a much less expensive and less complicated ruler next to their stamp to get the vertical height of the characters.
I am out of time with my frame. I finally got all the parts off. I had to saw the trailing arms in two. The frame will be scrapped as repair sections for a local restorer or be cut up as scrap metal in a couple of weeks when I get back from Asia.
...but I was hoping someone with a restoration in process might be able to walk into their garage and hold a much less expensive and less complicated ruler next to their stamp to get the vertical height of the characters....
Sorry Vogie, if I were in a restoration project now I would have done that for you.
Thanks, it's no big deal. At my current rate of progress I'll be doing a ttt in 2014. But by that time, I'll be too old to swing a hammer hard enough to make a dent in the frame anyway.
From: going faster miles an hour...with the radio on in browns mills new jersey
Originally Posted by Vogie
... but I was hoping someone with a restoration in process might be able to walk into their garage and hold a much less expensive and less complicated ruler next to their stamp to get the vertical height of the characters.
Just happened to find a tracing I did of my frame #.
The characters are 1/4" tall. Ones are "I"s if that matters to you.
The frame will be scrapped as repair sections for a local restorer or be cut up as scrap metal in a couple of weeks when I get back from Asia.
Why don't you cut out and keep the section of the frame with the VIN on it until you have the chance to do whatever you have to do to make the numbers readable?
Why don't you cut out and keep the section of the frame with the VIN on it until you have the chance to do whatever you have to do to make the numbers readable?
The rust is of the type that comes off in large flat chunks of flakes. The rail just aft of where the numbers would be is rusted through on three sides and into the #3 crossmember. The jack stand on which I placed the car before I disassembled it crushed the bottom of the frame because there was so little metal left. There is no possibility of the numbers still being there.
On the top of the "kick-up" I have wire brushed and sanded by hand and have found no trace of the numbers there either. If I get more agressive, I am sure I would have removed any trace of the numbers without going to one of the more sophisticated methods mentioned earlier.
The VIN number is still on the cage and the original engine so I know what the number is. All I needed was the height just posted. I will hand stamp it with 1/4 inch characters since I am just seeking to provide a documentation of the replacement frame to the cage.
Just happened to find a tracing I did of my frame #.
The characters are 1/4" tall. Ones are "I"s if that matters to you.
THANK YOU! "1"s or "I"s is not a concern since I am not trying to fool a judge or restorer. I certainly appreciate you providing this information. Sorry I took so much of everyone's time.
I thought there was only one location for the SN on the frame. Aren't you showing two?
Yes, there are two - always have been, since the first C1's. C1's were both on the main side rail, midyears have one on the main side rail and the other one is on the rear kickup rail; '63-'65 are just above the upper shock mount bracket, '66-'67 are near the forward edge of the #4 body mount bracket.
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