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Man - I will really be surprised if somebody comes up with something you can buy easily. JB is impervious to almost all liquids and solvents, by design. We used a similar product when I worked on F-14 Tomcats to repair metal and once cured, grinding was the only means to work the stuff. I think I'd try to VERY carefully use a dremel tool to get the JB off.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Jan 13, 2009 at 01:14 PM.
Q: How can I remove J-B Weld after it is fully cured?
A: When fully cured, J-B Weld can only be removed by grinding or filing it off, or by directly heating the product above the 600 degree maximum temperature threshold.
Trying to get some JB Weld off a caburetor and the stuff is really tough to remove and I don't want to damge anything.
What would one use to dissolve JB Weld?
Thanks,
John
john....if you come up with something...please let us know....ive used it for years and the stuff's impervious to any thing i have tried....except for grinding or maybe a lot of heat in some applications...not this one!
Wasn't aware JB weld's resistance to heat, I would probably still try a heat source but not without a good remote thermometer as 600 degrees and pot metal might be a real problem. I tried Google as a source for the melting point for pot metal and came up with this link http://www.muggyweld.com/potmetal.html. bunch of claims about fixing grills, trim parts etc. A possible source for a repair medium in the future.
Wasn't aware JB weld's resistance to heat, I would probably still try a heat source but not without a good remote thermometer as 600 degrees and pot metal might be a real problem. I tried Google as a source for the melting point for pot metal and came up with this link http://www.muggyweld.com/potmetal.html. bunch of claims about fixing grills, trim parts etc. A possible source for a repair medium in the future.
Interesting stuff -- I wish I could have tried it out when I found the mounting pegs broken off some of my chrome, side cover spears...
I guess we should be asking why you want to remove the JB.
Is it just gobbed on from a legitimate repair and needs cleaned up ? Or do you want to get rid of every bit of it and do a different kind of repair ?
In the first case I think a Dremel would do, in the second case I think you are going to have a fit getting it completely dislodged.
When properly mixed and cured JB should be impervious to gasoline and I never thought of a propane torch but damage or changes in the characteristics of the underlying material is a concern.
Thank you everyone for the things to try. That stuff was harder then I thought. I was afraid this wasn't going to be easy.
The JB Weld is on the float bowl so that gives me some leeway as far as applying heat. I'll soak it in some gas for a while and see if that softens it up enough to scrape some off. As recommended first I'll take a dremal to it to get most of the stuff off prior to hitting metal.
Fdreano, someone previosely applied JB for a quick fix (or for insurance against a problem) and I want to remove it to do a proper permanent fix.
I once patched a coolant catch pan-- you know the type with the handle and pour spout --made out of blow-molded plastic. Well, it was a beautiful patch job until I left some green anti-freeze in it overnight. The JB Weld had softened up like peanut butter.
Wasn't aware JB weld's resistance to heat, I would probably still try a heat source but not without a good remote thermometer as 600 degrees and pot metal might be a real problem. I tried Google as a source for the melting point for pot metal and came up with this link http://www.muggyweld.com/potmetal.html. bunch of claims about fixing grills, trim parts etc. A possible source for a repair medium in the future.
Heh...you may end up melting the carb off the JB Weld.
Just curious, is JB Weld primarily an adhesive or a sealant?
It has been used interchangeably to bond pieces of metal as well as to seal holes or replace missing material. Believe it is an epoxy with metal content added.
I think the original "marketing" story was about a farmer who repaired a cracked tractor engine block and went on to use it for years.
Please do not use any solvents or heat to remove the J-B Weld on your die cast carburator. You have to grind or chisel it off. Buy yourself a Dremel tool for grinding, a tool worth it's weight in gold. J-B Weld on steel will burn off with a torch.
john....if you come up with something...please let us know....ive used it for years and the stuff's impervious to any thing i have tried....except for grinding or maybe a lot of heat in some applications...not this one!
Methyl Chloride is dissolving the JB Weld. Used my dremel first to remove the thicker area before reaching the metal.
Was reluctant to use heat since the carb is kind-of rare. In parallel I have some mixed up JB Weld experiments going with gas and Coke (would really like the Coke to work as that would be a great story )
Ran out of anti-freeze (assume you mean ethyl glycol based) but will try that later too.