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Failed Starter Solenoid?

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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 12:10 PM
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Default Failed Starter Solenoid?

Looks like I am having an issue with the starter solenoid. When I turn the ignition, the starter starts spinning, but won't engage the flywheel. There is no grinding or loud noises, so gears are all fine and probably no need for shims. When I searched the forums, most of the posts say if solenoid goes bad starter won't work at all. Is it possible for a bad solenoid to switch starter on, but not move the gear forward? Or is it more likely that there is a mechanical starter failure?

Thanks for the help!
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 12:21 PM
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Nope,
Your solenoid is good if the starter spins, the solenoid must pull the starter pinion drive forward and engage the flywheel and then it closes internal contacts to start the starter turning.

The starter drive has a "clutch" system in it that allows it to turn the flywheel in the drive rotation but then will free wheel when the engine starts and flywheel speed overtakes the drive gear speed until you release the switch and the drive pulls back , unloads the contacts and the starter stops.
So it looks like you have a bad starter drive as the starter does run, probably its "clutching mechanism" has worn out, or possibly broken drive lever not actually moving the drive forward, either way, quick, cheap fix.
Good Luck!
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 12:25 PM
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You need a new Bendix Drive. Easy on and off
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 12:30 PM
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Photo linked from WikiPedia. Which part is the Bendix Drive? Is it #2? Or is this photo below of the right style of starter to have a Bendix Drive?


Last edited by 62Jeff; Feb 1, 2009 at 12:33 PM.
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 12:36 PM
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Wow, you guys are great! That bendix drive sounds like the problem. So where might someone find a new one? All of the big parts houses just sell the "rebuild service".
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 12:56 PM
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I would first try NAPA. If not in stock, ask them to order for you.

If this doesn't work, go to a starter/alternator rebuild shop near where you live. Almost every large town has one. (Check your Yellow Pages) They will have what you need. You might even have them do the rebuild on your unit if $$ look good.

If you post your car info/starter numbers, I'll try to look-up the part number for you.

Larry

EDIT: I did a quick check assuming it was a 1963 OEM starter for your Corvette. NAPA #ECHSRK104 or AutoZone #GMS-01. Called a "Starter Rebuild Kit"...and includes starter brushes and the bendix. About $25.

Last edited by Powershift; Feb 1, 2009 at 01:16 PM.
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 01:07 PM
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I bought my drive off of eBay - but haven't installed it yet because my problem has never reoccurred....not much money IIRC.. The part I have looks exactly like #2 in your pic Jeff..
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 01:37 PM
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Thanks Powershift! I just called Autozone and they have one on hold for me.
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 01:40 PM
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Originally Posted by Powershift
EDIT: I did a quick check assuming it was a 1963 OEM starter for your Corvette. ... AutoZone #GMS-01. Called a "Starter Rebuild Kit"...and includes starter brushes and the bendix. About $25.
Cool, my 62 has this same problem. I was going to remove the generic starter and install the rebuilt, date correct starter I have on the shelf, but maybe I'll use this instead as a chance to learn more about starters
http://www.autozone.com/R,2733950/ve...ductDetail.htm
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 02:25 PM
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Pretty simple repair. The hardest pasrt is getting the little retaining snap ring off the shaft to R&R teh new drive. Snap ring pliers help a lot, IIRC

I will say my experience withe non Delco drives has been spotty, some last a long time, others last not so long. Unfortunately, GM will no longer sell you just the drive, only the whole starter

Doug
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Old Feb 1, 2009 | 02:26 PM
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I would suggest you may have a bad solenoid or the drive. {number 2 in the picture} If you hear a clicking sound the switch is working and the problem would be the bendix drive. Either way the starter will have to be removed to replace the faulty part. The switch is easy to change but the drive has a small ring holding the drive in place on the armature shaft that goes into the nose and is difficult to take apart and put back together. There is a special tool rebuilders use to accomplish this task. It can be done however with due diligence. You do NOT need shims.....

sorry Doug, I see you covered it between the time I finished my reply.....

Last edited by Ironcross; Feb 1, 2009 at 02:30 PM.
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 12:54 PM
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While you are at it...you might want to put a HD solenoid and heat shield in also. I had a "ghost" in the car for the longest time that made my solenoid "die" at times and work like a champ all the others. Heat really brought in the boogy man.
After adding the HD soleniod and shield, never had that problem again...and I did the same thing to all my Chevy's. Best $45 fix I could find.
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 01:17 PM
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Originally Posted by ptwohey
While you are at it...you might want to put a HD solenoid and heat shield in also. I had a "ghost" in the car for the longest time that made my solenoid "die" at times and work like a champ all the others. Heat really brought in the boogy man.
After adding the HD soleniod and shield, never had that problem again...and I did the same thing to all my Chevy's. Best $45 fix I could find.
many folks have this heat problem with solenoids because of exhaust temperature being too high. especially with some tubular headers, although the heat shield is effective on most, i would check my ignition timing as too much retard is sometimes the culprit here....jmho...good luck
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 01:32 PM
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Originally Posted by midyearvette
many folks have this heat problem with solenoids because of exhaust temperature being too high. especially with some tubular headers, although the heat shield is effective on most, i would check my ignition timing as too much retard is sometimes the culprit here....jmho...good luck
A heated (weak) solenoid will show up as not wanting to pull in (ignition timing does not affect that). The HD solenoid and heat shield can solve that issue - sometimes. Have seen where an increase in the wire gauge (from ignition switch to the solenoid) on some vehicles can help add more volts to pull in the solenoid.

Incorrect ignition timing shows up as "engine turning over much harder than normal". However, if it only occurs when the engine is hot, may be that the starter itself is seeing too much heat soak (from exhaust tubes too close to the starter), and again, a shield can help that.

Plasticman
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 01:49 PM
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Originally Posted by Plasticman
A heated (weak) solenoid will show up as not wanting to pull in (ignition timing does not affect that). The HD solenoid and heat shield can solve that issue - sometimes. Have seen where an increase in the wire gauge (from ignition switch to the solenoid) on some vehicles can help add more volts to pull in the solenoid.

Incorrect ignition timing shows up as "engine turning over much harder than normal". However, if it only occurs when the engine is hot, may be that the starter itself is seeing too much heat soak (from exhaust tubes too close to the starter), and again, a shield can help that.

Plasticman
if that's your opinion you are certainly entitled to it....i have seen cases where a customer has changed to a new solenoid to no avail because they have the same symptoms as before and ig. timing WAS indeed the culprit because the exhaust would actually glow slightly after dark. this is because improper timing does indeed have an effect on exhaust temperature......to each his own......

Last edited by midyearvette; Feb 2, 2009 at 01:56 PM.
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 02:48 PM
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Originally Posted by midyearvette
if that's your opinion you are certainly entitled to it....i have seen cases where a customer has changed to a new solenoid to no avail because they have the same symptoms as before and ig. timing WAS indeed the culprit because the exhaust would actually glow slightly after dark. this is because improper timing does indeed have an effect on exhaust temperature......to each his own......
I won't argue, and see your point. But improper ignition would also manifest itself in other issues.

My assumption was that "it sounded like" you were referring to hard cranking related timing issues.

But please do not take offence, since "I think" we are just all trying to help.

Plasticman

Last edited by Plasticman; Feb 2, 2009 at 02:51 PM.
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 02:59 PM
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With all due respect to the folks on here that are on the persnickety side when it comes to timing, checking the ignition timing is a fine idea whenever a heat problem is suspected. However, if I was driving my car around with no problems, and then a starter problem occurred, like the OP had, ignition timing would not be at the top of my list of things to check. In fact, it wouldn't even make the top 3.
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Old Feb 2, 2009 | 03:14 PM
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Originally Posted by PKguitar
With all due respect to the folks on here that are on the persnickety side when it comes to timing, checking the ignition timing is a fine idea whenever a heat problem is suspected. However, if I was driving my car around with no problems, and then a starter problem occurred, like the OP had, ignition timing would not be at the top of my list of things to check. In fact, it wouldn't even make the top 3.
i guess im the one being persnickety.......however i was responding to the post of heat being the "boogey man"...good luck to all
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Old Feb 3, 2009 | 09:47 AM
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Rebuild Starter last night. Fairly straight forward and easy. I didn't have any issues with the retension ring, but getting the old bushing out in the back cover was a pain. Lots of prying and grunting and she finally let go. Works great! Thanks everyone!
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