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I went to start the car today ('65 327) and the starter just clicked. Assuming the batery was drained I hooked up the battery charger. I let it charge for a few mins and tried to start the car again with the charger hooked up. The charger starting buzzing loud so I got out to investigate. The charger started smoking alot and the electric fumes/smoke from the charger was enough to burn my lungs! I started the car yesterday and its a brand new charger. Im sure I didnt have the pos on neg cossed because I double checked before I plugged in the charger. I dont know anything about elec. What would drain the battery over night and cause the charger to blow up? Thanks.
Since it is a brand new charger I assume it hasn't been used previously so it's a possibility that the charger was defective from the factory.
How old is the battery? It could have a dead cell, or be shorted internally. It's also possible that the points in the voltage regulator are stuck causing a drain.
I would have the battery checked out at your FLAPS, and open up the voltage regulator and check for stuck points.
Since it is a brand new charger I assume it hasn't been used previously so it's a possibility that the charger was defective from the factory.
How old is the battery? It could have a dead cell, or be shorted internally. It's also possible that the points in the voltage regulator are stuck causing a drain.
I would have the battery checked out at your FLAPS, and open up the voltage regulator and check for stuck points.
The charger was used before and seemed to work fine. The battery is about 1 yr old. The volt regulator is very old. Couldnt hurt to get a new regulator anyway. Strange that all of a sudden I have a drain.
The charger was used before and seemed to work fine. The battery is about 1 yr old. The volt regulator is very old. Couldnt hurt to get a new regulator anyway. Strange that all of a sudden I have a drain.
All battery chargers I've seen have an internal circuit breaker to protect against overload and crossconnection. I suspect yours went up in smoke not because of the battery had an issue but because a malfunction with the charger. As for your discharge problem, check all your battery connections for corrosion, check starter and alternator wiring harnesses for loose or bad connections and if that all looks ok, as mentioned above, get your battery load checked and if that is ok get your alternator and regulator checked out together. You have to be systematic and methodical to track down these electrical gremlins, eliminating one thing at a time till you find the problem.
First thing you have to ask yourself, Did I leave the interior lights on or anything else if not you have a draw. Best way to test for that is disconnect one battery lead from the battery and hook in a test light between the post and the cable or if working alone ( I use) a reverse beeper. Then start pulling fuses one at a time till the light or beeper goes out. If it doesn't then proceed to diconnect,unplug components with direct battery voltage to them , ei: alternator , regulator, starter and relays. you should be able to pinpoint the circuit causing your problem. Hope this helps . Jim and if it helps any , I've reverse charged batteries in the past by accident of coarse and never cooked a battery charger. Battery yes , but not charger. (Last one was on my 65 fuelie ,darn eyes are going bad!!)
The strange this is that the charger was working fine until I tried to start the car. As soon I turned the key it blew up!
Sounds to me like you have battery terminal corrosion (or loose cables) preventing sufficient starting current. Electricity follows the path of least resistance so (and you should NEVER do this with the typical small home charger) leaving the charger hooked up while starting the car probably began pulling in the neighborhood of 30+ amps (prob more) from your 6-10 amp charger. The internal circuitry should have protected it but malfunctioned.
This assumes you had the charger clamps on the outside of the battery cable connections. BTW even internal fuses don't always protect components....sufficient current can arc through the metal vapor inside a glass fuse while it is blowing and still roast parts!
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Mar 2, 2009 at 09:21 AM.
If that was not a commercial grade charger, you probably overloaded it. The small 10 to 50 amp carry around chargers are meant for charging, not starting the car. A typical starter draws from 100 to 300 amps, and more, especially on initial excitation. Add a low battery to that, and, you often end up letting the smoke out.
Battery chargers, like jumper cables, are not meant to start the vehicle, that is, carry a starting load. (100+ amps). They are supposed to carry a charging load, and build up the low battery, until it can start the vehicle. This is why a lot of cars do not start when first jumped. You let them sit connected for a few minutes, and bingo. Next time, hook it up, and let it charge for 15 to 30 minutes. (Note; light duty trickle chargers of 5 amps or less may take hours.) Then disconnect the charger, before starting. Rich
Last edited by landshark 454; Mar 2, 2009 at 09:38 AM.
If that was not a commercial grade charger, you probably overloaded it. The small 10 to 50 amp carry around chargers are meant for charging, not starting the car. A typical starter draws from 100 to 300 amps, and more, especially on initial excitation. Add a low battery to that, and, you often end up letting the smoke out.
Battery chargers, like jumper cables, are not meant to start the vehicle, that is, carry a starting load. (100+ amps). They are supposed to carry a charging load, and build up the low battery, until it can start the vehicle. This is why a lot of cars do not start when first jumped. You let them sit connected for a few minutes, and bingo. Next time, hook it up, and let it charge for 15 to 30 minutes. (Note; light duty trickle chargers of 5 amps or less may take hours.) Then disconnect the charger, before starting. Rich
Sounds like the battery never got charged, so the starter tried to pull all of its current from the charger, and overloaded it. I learned to never try to start a car with the charger attached for just that reason. Probably time for a new charger!
From: On the bank of the Columbia River..... Washington State
Sounds like the battery never got charged, so the starter tried to pull all of its current from the charger, and overloaded it. I learned to never try to start a car with the charger attached for just that reason. Probably time for a new charger![/QUOTE]
Sometimes its just p!ss-poor design. I've seen whole circuits wiped out in aircraft avionics that were protected by multiple failsafes and circuit breakers. And now every 3rd world country with enough stable power to run a soldering iron makes battery chargers and so big surprise when one of them blows up...
Sometimes its just p!ss-poor design. And now every 3rd world country with enough stable power to run a soldering iron makes battery chargers and so big surprise when one of them blows up...
Yeah so true , some of them barely have batteries to charge!
I've started cars with low amp chargers attached plus used the likes such as Snap On , Matco, Marquette, Associated, etc professional grade chargers. I've never saw one blow up. never. I was purchasing Solars for a while and they aren't worth fixing . I've had no problem with the Associated as of late. I buy tools for a very large fleet in NYC and know when one of them fails , I get the calls .
Sometimes its just p!ss-poor design. I've seen whole circuits wiped out in aircraft avionics that were protected by multiple failsafes and circuit breakers. And now every 3rd world country with enough stable power to run a soldering iron makes battery chargers and so big surprise when one of them blows up...
Would be interested to see what safety agency certified the product. Although you can sell non certified products in some states, it is suicide to do so (from a retail store / insurance standpoint).
UL, ETL, CSA, etc. do not require that any unit continues to function, only that if they "fail", that they fail safe. But if it emits a sufficient cloud of smoke, then there is most likely enough flammable gas available for fire when the windings fuse open (spark from fusing open igniting the gases). And flame is frowned upon by the safety agencies.
The charger should be "rated" to start a vehicle with a dead battery. If the charger does not have a start setting/rating, do not attempt to start the vehicle until the battery is fully charged.
Did you leave the key in the accessory position thinking it was in the off position? This will also drain your battery (overnight in my case)
I don't remember paying nearly as much as that ad indicates but that was a while ago.
I always take it out in the boat with me and its a DC inverter, 12V accessory power, air pump and jump starter with trouble light all in one.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Mar 2, 2009 at 05:12 PM.
As far as the bat giong low it could have been many things, something left on, a bad bat ,a short. Even breakers fail especially if they are subject to a sudden load. The breaker can arc and weld itself together. Be glad it was the charger that smoked and not the car. If the car was started on low voltage the solenoid contacts may also be stuck together. Disconnect the bat check the connections and charge full. Then we can find why the bat went dead. Mark
The charger that blew up was an el-cheapo brand ($20). I bought a new charger and hooked it up and charged it for a while. The good news: the car started and ran fine. The bad news: the charger has been on for several hours and wont reach the fully charged level. So I guess there is a severe draw or the batt is toast?