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Pulled the gauge cluster to have it rebuilt last fall. After I put the steering column back in and drove the car, the steering wheel is a few degrees off, when going straight. I assume that I probably off by a "tooth or two" when I put the steering column back in the car.
Rather than pulling the steering column, can this be corrected by an alignment shop? Or, do I just remove the steering wheel and realign it?
i just did the same thing. Pull straight into your garage, then remove horn cap ect., the nut, pull steering wheel and move over a couple of teeth to where it looks straight. Put alltogether and tighten up.
The shaft was never removed from the hub, when I pulled out the column from the cluster, so it should line up. But, will check when I pull the horn button off.
The shaft was never removed from the hub, when I pulled out the column from the cluster, so it should line up. But, will check when I pull the horn button off.
Thanks guys.
Ralph
Oh, ok. Sorry.
If it were me, I'd confirm the wheel hub is properly aligned with the column shaft, and then get the car aligned.
Or, you can just pop the hub off and move it one or two teeth until you are happy with it.
Ralph: If you left the wheel on the column and removed the column, you may not have it properly aligned at the rag joint. Did you match-mark the steering shaft to the hub on the rag joint?
Roy
Ralph: If you left the wheel on the column and removed the column, you may not have it properly aligned at the rag joint. Did you match-mark the steering shaft to the hub on the rag joint?
Roy
Doh! I didn't think about the obvious issue!
The shaft will only go into the rag joint in just a few positions, off by more than a few teeth and the bolt won't go in. Yeah, Roy I think you've probably hit the nail on the head with this one.
I did mark and align at the hub on the above rag joint, to the best of my ability. Followed John Hinkley's directions for pulling the cluster. That's why I think that I am only a "tooth" off.
Don't want to have to remove the seat and get under the dash, since everything else is working perfectly.
Will try the "steering wheel Pull" method and see if that solves the issue, since it seems, at least to me, the easiest solution to the problem.
I'm in the process of re-assembling not only mine, but also another friends.......
Can anyone tell me how you set/adjust the spring and stop clamp at the bottom of the mast, which appears to hold in the lower bearing ?
Do I assume you just snug up the spring to the bearing and clamp ?
or is there a certain amount of spring compression before clamping ?
TIA,
RK
There's a right way and a wrong way to put the steering mast and wheel assembly together. Make sure the steering wheel is match marked to the steering shaft at the top, make sure the steering shaft is correctly match marked to the rag joint at the bottom, and that the rag joint is correctly matched to the steering gear box, then the spring and stop clamp at the bottom of the mast should be installed with the spring compressed, leaving only a slight amount of "play" in the spring.
I'm in the process of re-assembling not only mine, but also another friends.......
Can anyone tell me how you set/adjust the spring and stop clamp at the bottom of the mast, which appears to hold in the lower bearing ?
Do I assume you just snug up the spring to the bearing and clamp ?
or is there a certain amount of spring compression before clamping ?
TIA,
RK
They added a note in the '65 Assembly Manual that says:
"NOTE: After installation of steering wheel assembly, adjust steering shaft stop (the clamp) to allow .010" minimum to .030" maximum axial movement of the clamp."
Just set that gap, tighten the clamp bolt, and don't worry about the spring - it'll take care of itself.
From: Holly Springs, Nort Cackalacky / Jupiter, Florida
Originally Posted by JohnZ
"NOTE: After installation of steering wheel assembly, adjust steering shaft stop (the clamp) to allow .010" minimum to .030" maximum axial movement of the clamp."
John,
Is this a typo or am I reading it correctly? allow .010" minimum to .030" maximum axial movement of the clamp Is that by chance supposed to say, movement of the Spring, instead?
Basically if I am correct, I believe the axial movement of .010" - .030" is simply referring to end play....and that end play I assume is between the spring and 'clamp' when tightened down.
OR, does axial movement refer to something different regarding to the clamp?
John,
Is this a typo or am I reading it correctly? allow .010" minimum to .030" maximum axial movement of the clamp Is that by chance supposed to say, movement of the Spring, instead?
Basically if I am correct, I believe the axial movement of .010" - .030" is simply referring to end play....and that end play I assume is between the spring and 'clamp' when tightened down.
OR, does axial movement refer to something different regarding to the clamp?
TIA,
RK
I'm not JohnZ, but I believe the clamp and the end of the spring adjacent to the spring will move 0.10-0.30 when adjusted correctly, the opposite end of the spring will stay stationary. And I also believe you're correct, they're only talking about end play.