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Can anyone tell me the proper procedure and resistance readings for checking a coil? I recently saw an article in a vette mag, but now, of course, I can't find it.
Thanks in advance for any help.
Can anyone tell me the proper procedure and resistance readings for checking a coil? I recently saw an article in a vette mag, but now, of course, I can't find it.
Thanks in advance for any help.
I bought a new Standard Brands coil, and these are my test results,primary ckt,across positive and negative= 2.8 ohms.....secondary ckt,each side to tower=10,800 ohms. I'm sure there is a range on good coil numbers,but sorry,I only have these actual hard numbers on a good, new,replacement coil,I bought for my 65.
Ohm values at room temperature are just a reference. Many an old coil will go open or short circuit at underhood temps but there is no good way the check that.
Here is the determinative method for bench testing a coil.
Hook the - terminal of the coil to the negative post on a 12 volt battery, then hook a wire from the positive post on the battery to the + terminal on the coil. When you remove the wire from the positive post, a spark should jump from the coil wire and knock you off your chair. If this occurs, the coil is good!
Here is the determinative method for bench testing a coil.
Hook the - terminal of the coil to the negative post on a 12 volt battery, then hook a wire from the positive post on the battery to the + terminal on the coil. When you remove the wire from the positive post, a spark should jump from the coil wire and knock you off your chair. If this occurs, the coil is good!
Here is the determinative method for bench testing a coil.
Hook the - terminal of the coil to the negative post on a 12 volt battery, then hook a wire from the positive post on the battery to the + terminal on the coil. When you remove the wire from the positive post, a spark should jump from the coil wire and knock you off your chair. If this occurs, the coil is good!
Regards, John McGraw
John your a Hoot! That method will definitely test the coil. If you fly about two feet then your coil is producing about 35K volts and is pronounced good! If on the other hand you only bang your head on the hood of the car and that hurts more than the shock from the coil it is weak and needs to be replaced. Ever test an ignition condensor and the hand it to an unsuspecting bystander?
Yes, it is in Corvette Fever magazine and I have the magazine and article at home. I went and bought a new multimeter, and after testing 3 brand new coils exactly the way the article said, all 3 coils failed. They were a brand new one from NAPA, made in USA, and a brand new flamethrower I and flamethrower II from Corvette Central.
The first test, came in correctly at 1.6 ohms with the multimeter dialed at 200. ( simply put red lead on positive terminal and negative lead on negative terminal).. Then I did like the article said, set the dial at 20k, and put red positive lead on positive terminal and the other negative lead in the hole where the coil wire inserts. This reading should have been over 13 ohms, and on all 3 brand new coils I could only get 9.5 to 10 readings, which the article said is a failing number..
I am having Dan Martin, my corvette guru, check this flamethrower II with his mulitmeter this week just to see if my brand new multimeter is faulty, or the article is faulty.. LOL
Yes, it is in Corvette Fever magazine and I have the magazine and article at home. I went and bought a new multimeter, and after testing 3 brand new coils exactly the way the article said, all 3 coils failed. They were a brand new one from NAPA, made in USA, and a brand new flamethrower I and flamethrower II from Corvette Central.
The first test, came in correctly at 1.6 ohms with the multimeter dialed at 200. ( simply put red lead on positive terminal and negative lead on negative terminal).. Then I did like the article said, set the dial at 20k, and put red positive lead on positive terminal and the other negative lead in the hole where the coil wire inserts. This reading should have been over 13 ohms, and on all 3 brand new coils I could only get 9.5 to 10 readings, which the article said is a failing number..
I am having Dan Martin, my corvette guru, check this flamethrower II with his mulitmeter this week just to see if my brand new multimeter is faulty, or the article is faulty.. LOL
Cheers, Zale
Zale:
I wondered if a coil from the 60s would check different. I checked my original 091 and got the same as you: 1.6 and 10K. Dunno
Now I'm really confused! I found the article, and my coil reads 1.7 across the terminals and 6500 at the secondary.... Could this cause cutting out at high rpm? I also checked a new, unused coil (mexican variety) and it only read 8500 ohms at the secondary.
Yes, it is in Corvette Fever magazine and I have the magazine and article at home. I went and bought a new multimeter, and after testing 3 brand new coils exactly the way the article said, all 3 coils failed. They were a brand new one from NAPA, made in USA, and a brand new flamethrower I and flamethrower II from Corvette Central.
The first test, came in correctly at 1.6 ohms with the multimeter dialed at 200. ( simply put red lead on positive terminal and negative lead on negative terminal).. Then I did like the article said, set the dial at 20k, and put red positive lead on positive terminal and the other negative lead in the hole where the coil wire inserts. This reading should have been over 13 ohms, and on all 3 brand new coils I could only get 9.5 to 10 readings, which the article said is a failing number..
I am having Dan Martin, my corvette guru, check this flamethrower II with his mulitmeter this week just to see if my brand new multimeter is faulty, or the article is faulty.. LOL
Cheers, Zale
Hmmm,your readings,on all 3 coils, fall in the range that Doug,above,says is good. I believe Doug's numbers are correct and the 13K in the magazine is not. I also believe my 5 dollar Chinese made meter from Harbor Freight is wrong. It appears to read 1 ohm high. I get 2.8 ohms across the primary,instead of 1.7. When I measure across my ballast resistor I get 2.6 ohms,instead of the 1.8. I guess you get what you pay for.
I also believe my 5 dollar Chinese made meter from Harbor Freight is wrong. It appears to read 1 ohm high. I get 2.8 ohms across the primary,instead of 1.7. When I measure across my ballast resistor I get 2.6 ohms,instead of the 1.8. I guess you get what you pay for.
My Harbor Freight meter also reads 1 ohm too high. I touched the 2 leads together, and got a 1 ohm reading. So, I subtract 1 ohm from every measurement I take. I've also found that it takes a few seconds for the readings to stabilize.
Decent multi-meters usually have a 'zero' adjustment for the resistance function so you can calibrate it quickly. Some of the new Pertronix coils have 0.6 ohm and even 0.3 ohm resistance so don't get thrown if you have one of these....
Here is the determinative method for bench testing a coil.
Hook the - terminal of the coil to the negative post on a 12 volt battery, then hook a wire from the positive post on the battery to the + terminal on the coil. When you remove the wire from the positive post, a spark should jump from the coil wire and knock you off your chair. If this occurs, the coil is good!
Regards, John McGraw
LMAO!!
...reminds of the write up of the guy in Texas who tested the taser on himself.
The ohm meter will only check the coil at very low voltages. It will not show winding break down at operating voltages, fast rise time (as would be found in electronic ignition systems) or internal HV shorting to the case. All will cause problems that may not be apparent until the system is called upon to produce spark at higher rpm and cylinder pressures.
The ohm meter will not show the actual inductive reactance of the windings. Without a scope, pulse generator and other various test equipment, substitution is the only practical test.
The best way to check a coil is to hook the damn thing up and run it. You will find out pretty quick if its good or not. You can do all the bench testing you want, but if that thing breaks down under heat, you ain't going to know it until you put it under a little stress.
I have an original on my `33 Cadi. Works great for show, but after 30 minutes or so, she will quit dead. I run it only for show, and change it for go.