I have a Muncie 4 speed. The clutch, pressure plate and throw out bearing are new. The trans was just rebuilt. When the engine is off the trans will go into all the gears. But when I start the engine at idle it won't go into any gear. When I depress the clutch and try and shift it into any gear it won't go. But when I tried to shift into reverse it would grind ? i tried making some adjustment on the clutch pedal but made no difference. Anyone ever have this problem?

 

It sounds like the clutch is not disengaging enough. I would assume that you have verified that all the components, clutch, pressure plate, clutch arm, shaft, ect. are the correct P/N for your year? Was this an issue before you rebuilt the tranny and replaced everything?

 

Yes They are all Nos parts. No I never had any problems with shifting into gear. I'm using the same bell housing and clutch fork clutch linkage as before.

 

That being the case, how much free play do you have in the clutch pedal before it actually comes in contact with the clutch fingers? It should be 1" to 1 1/4". I just rebuilt the tranny in my 67 along with the clutch/pressure plate. Had the flywheel reground and balanced. The best adjustment I can get is about 3/4" free play. I was told by an old Corvette specialist who's been dealing with these cars for over 30 years, that is why they install adjustable ball studs in the bell housing under the clutch fork. This gives you the suffecient throw neccessary to disengage the clutch. That is what you may end up doing. Just a hunch.
George,

 

The transmission is not disengaged from the engine. That is why you can't shift with the engine running from a stop. Push it down a hill and you will be able to get in gear, sort of, and drive, but obviously, that is not a fix.

1. The easiest fix, make sure you have adjusted the clutch lever properly. Most will have the locking nuts on the interior clutch rod near the end. If you have adjusted all the way to the end and it won't disengage, you have other issues.



2. Wrong throwout bearing. It happens. There is a long and a short throwout bearing depending on the bellhousing you have. If you have a blow-proof or scattershield, you need to get a throwout bearing that works with it. Yours may be too short.



3. Wrong clutch fork, wrong clutch rod. Surprising how many cars out there are using the wrong parts because believe it or not, many cars have been modified with lots of non-original parts over the years.






4. Clutch problem. Did this just happen? If so, the clutch disc broke. The damper springs could have popped out and are now wedged between disc and pressure plate.

if this happened after the car sat all winter, then the disc is rusted to the flywheel. Very common. Hopefully you have the car pointed in a way to go for a drive and not hit anything, so put it in gear for the direction you want to go, start the engine and hang on! Avoid stop signs and stop lights and if you push in the clutch and brake you can break the disc loose. Sometimes you might have to give some gas while braking.

 

Possibly the input shaft is jammed into the pilot bearing/bushing? If it is locked in there it doesn't matter what the clutch disc is doing.

Rich

 

Thanks for all the suggestions. I tried a couple of things with the linkage to see if it would take care of the problem . But nothing made a difference. My next move is to start removing the transmission. Once I slide it back I'll know more what going on in the bellhousing. Any easy tricks to removing the trans to bellhousing bolts? Or sliding the transmission back?

 

Before I'd remove the trans double check the clutch rod linkage for excessive wear, and double check your free play adjustment.

 

Is it possible you may have gotten the clutch disc in backwards? I have rarely seen this but it can be done and the clutch will not release.

Also, can you adjust the clutch where there is almost no freeplay at all and have it release? If so, you can do so and drive the car around a little and then re-adjust the clutch. Sometimes you have to wear off all the "Fuzz" and other stuff left over from making the disc and get it seated in. After that, you may fine the adjustment will be where it is supposed to be.

Is the fork is hitting the firewall and not allowing the clutch to fully release? You can install an adjustable ball stud to allow for a little more adjustment without completely removing the transmission.

Take a close look at everything before you go to all the work of removing the transmission and getting the clutch apart.

Just some thoughts.

Good Luck,

Chris, CWPASADENA

 

Double E, The linkage is not worn at all. I replaced the rod from the fork to the Z bar. I checked it with the original one and it matched exactly. I tried adjusting almost off the end of the adjusting shaft and still can't get the tranny in gear.

CW The fork isn't hitting the firewall. As much as I hate the idea of removing the trans. I see not other option. I'm sure now the problem is in the bellhousing just not sure what it may be.

 

Try adjujsting a little more if you can. I had a similar problem eventhough I used the same brand of parts that was in the car. It turned out that the clutch disk was slightly thicker (it doesn't take much at all) either because of the material, or the marcel plates. I must have has the trans in and out about 6 times. An adjustable ball finally did the trick.

 

This sounds like the funnest rust-fix ever.

 

I am betting that the wrong throwout bearing was installed. I installed the wrong bearing in my 68 coupe. Same problem. When the adjustment was at its end, the car acted like it was still in gear. I had a throwout bearing from a passanger car instead of from a vette. The difference is only about 1/4" or 3/8". Do you still have your old bearing? Jerry

 

Thanks for all the help. I spoke to a friend that had the same problem as me when he restored his car. What he did was start the car in 1st gear on jack stands then shut it off . Then started it in reverse for a few seconds. He did this about four or five times and the clutch disengaged. As we spoke the only thing we found in common was that we both had installed the drivetrain in the chassis and then let it sit for almost a year before dropping the body. We figured that with a fresh cut on the flywheel and the fresh cut on the pressure plate with new springs and a new clutch disc it must have made the disc stick. All I know is once I did this procedure. It disengaged the sticking clutch and I was able to adjust the clutch to its normal setting. I hope if someone has this trouble that they try this first before going through the hassel of tearing out the trans and bellhousing.

 

If you had mentioned it sat for a year on a fresh flywheel, you'd have had your answer. It rusted together, just like many do in the winter.


It sounds more exciting in print than it really is. The trick is getting out of the garage and onto the street, as you can' t push in the clutch and stop moving.

Usually the blip of the throttle a couple of times with the clutch pushed in, or a couple of taps of the brake will break it loose. At least a big block will.