Took the '65 out today and mechron had two comments. One, that I'm shifting at too high an RPM and two, I'm looking for a ticket

So, I'm asking for help in getting a shift light that is compatible with our type of cars. I've seen one that is as small as one LED but it needs the cars traction control electronics to program it. I've seen others that are so huge that it would be an eyesore. The smaller stealthy ones that are about .5"x1.5" are up to $80.00! What to buy?

I guess my ear isn't cutting it because Ron said I was shifting at about 5500 rpm. I never looked as we were kind of going fast and I couldn't divert my eyes.

 

http://www.sw-performance.com/products/USL

I run one of these, depending on the model it will give you peak RPM overall, or can even recall the run

I have the lower level model Part Number: 114919

 

Dokk,
Is your tach inoperable?

 

maybe a ticket or two is what you need.

It will slow you down for awhile..

jack

 

5500 rpm's is too high?

 

Well, Ron drives like an old lady, so it was high to him.
I got an email notifying me of a post from Jeff62 but it doesn't show up here. He said that I need a significant other to monitor my shifting but it would be at high cost. I've been there and done that! I won't be repeating that for awhile! At least Ron is a cheap date!

 

it is when you are cruising through parking lots at 5500 RPM.

 

You say that like it's bad thing...

 

Yeah, I deleted it as it didn't contribute anything to your thread. I've learned that "Smarta$$" can be more of a liability and less of an asset. It isn't an attribute that always serves me well here.

 

Are you scarred?

chicken

 

It's more a matter of knowing when I should leave the BS out of someone's thread.

 

Actually Jeff, I thought it was pretty funny. I don't think I would have had a Corvette if my ex wife would not have divorced me. She did me a favor! And it's not BS, alot of people are in the same boat.
Donny, those lights are about 5" long and pretty wide. I think Summit sells mini ones that I can hide better. The link you gave me didn't show pricing. How much was it?
You know, it's funny that Donny posted in this thread because that's how my ex wife's name is pronounced, except she spells it "Dawne", but sys it as Dawnee. So thanks for reminding me of her, Donny.

 

I used a Raptor Shift Light on my C5 and it was easy install and worked great.

Raptor infomation ===> Click Here

 

just listen for the valve noise...then shift... and you'll be fine.


if you hear "CLANG BANK POP CRUNCH SSSSSSSSSSSSSSS" followed by a loud "MOTHER $*%#ER" coming from your own mouth.... then you know you need a shift light


A

 

Carlos,

I'm in the same boat. I never look at the tach as over the years I have always shifted by the sound of the motor. I glance down once in awhile and I have 5500 rpm down pretty good. But a shift light set at about 5000 would be nice too since like you I don't like to take my eyes off the road when hauling azz.

 

My thoughts exactly

Or........ you need a bigger cam

Doug

 

This pretty much sums it up!

 

you can buy that one from internet stores for around $100.00

I like it because of the tach, it is much more reliable than the cable driven tachs in these old cars

 

Doug,

He has a 383 stroker similar to mine. HP stops around 5500 rpm so time to shift. No reason to wind it up with all the torque.

Here is my dyno and engine specs:



Technical Specs
Engine Model - 383 A-3
Horsepower - 440 HP
Torque - 465 Ft Lbs
Bore and Stroke - 4.030 x 3.750 Inches
Compression Ratio - 10:1
Fuel - Premium pump gas
Crankshaft - Cast Steel (one or two piece rear seal)
Connecting Rods - 6.0 Inch Forged I Beam, bushed
Pistons - Hypereutectic
Rings - File fit plasma moly
Block - GM late model roller, your choice of color, 4-bolt mains
Camshaft - Hydraulic roller 230/236 @ 050
Lifters - OEM style hydraulic roller .544/.555 with 1.6 rocker
Timing Set - Double roller chain
Timing Cover - Chrome
Harmonic Balancer - Professional Products
Oil Pump - Melling standard volume
Oil Pan - Stock style chrome
Heads - 200cc Dart Pro 1 Platinum, 72cc chamber
Head Bolts - ARP
Valves - Stainless steel 2.02 Intake 1.60 Exhaust
Springs - Dual with dampner
Rocker Studs - ARP 7/16 diameter screw in type
Rocker Arms - Aluminum full roller, 1.6 ratio
Pushrods - 5/16 Hardened steel with guide plates
Intake Manifold - Aluminum Edelbrock RPM Air Gap
Valve Covers - Chrome stamped
Spark Plugs - Autolite 3922
Oil Filter - Fram PH5 or comparable
Ignition Timing - 32 degrees at 4,000 RPM
Oil Type - Mineral based

 

yeah, but Ken, most times you shift after peak horses to limit the drop on the upshift.... now with a big cube motor you may not have that issue, but on a 327 you lug the motor in the next gear unless you rev past the peak.


Looking at that, if shift your motor to where the next gear is at 3800 and your at 299 hp, wait 400 rpm and your now dropping the hammer in the next gear at 341 hp.......

I doubt your drops 45 horses 400 rpm past peak. don't shift at the peak unless your wife is telling you to