Spent a good deal of time searching the archives and never really came up with something that anwsers my question.
I used up the entire past weekend taking the vent frames out,checking for any defects or warpage.I have a slight gap(1/2" starting from the top down to about 6 to 7 inches on the vent frame,from where it makes contact with the door weatherstripping.I adjusted the vent window bolt and then started to fool around with the door alignment.That was a big mistake.Took me hours to get it back where it should be.
How would you get that vent window gap to get flush with the door frame ??

 

There are two bolts near the top that hold the vent window frame in and an adjuster just below them. There is also a longer bolt towards the rear that kind of squeezes the door together and a lower nut for adjusting the lower track. Ignore those for now. If you loosen everything up, you can align the frame fore-aft. For example if the bottom is ok and the gap is at the top, loosen up the rear bolt, and push the top of the frame forward to close the gap.

I believe that the in-out adjusment is made with the adjuster just below those upper bolts. Loosen the nut and turn the adjuster with a screwdriver, and tighten.

Hope that helps
Gerry

 

w Gerry
You will probably have to re-adjust your sideglass to fit the vent when your done. Do the vent adjustment first, then put your top up/on and adjust the sideglass to fit.

Mike Coletta

 

Thanks for the quick response Gerry & Mike.Gerry I loosend those vent bolts so many times I'm surprized there not stripped by now.Something is not right.
I'm going to start from square one again and take each side out and try it again.Do you ever use a shim or washer to get the vent window to draw in a little more to the frame? I maxed out on the the adjustment nut ??

 

So the problem is the in/out adjustment at the top of the frame where it meets the weatherstrip on the A pillar? In order to get the top to move in, the adjuster has to be adjusted to move toward the outside of the car. Putting a shim or washer behind the frame at the adjuster would move the top of the frame outward even farther. The pivot point is where the upper two bolts are. Putting shims behind the frame at the upper mounts would probably open the gap between the frame and the outer door panel.
I am assuming we're talking about a convertible?


Check to see if the adjuster screw is turning while you are tightening the nut and thus you are losing the adjustment.

How is the door fitment along the leading edge? There may be shims between the hinges and door that can be played with to move the door in or out. If you have to mess with them, I would only loosen one hinge at a time. After loosening one hinge and adding or subracting shims, put a bolt back in snug and slowly close the door. Watch the front edge closely as it is very tight at the ridge line. With the door latched you can reach in and tighten that bolt and the door should stay aligned and you can put in the rest of the bolts. Then work on the other hinge.


Gerry

 

I had the same problem with mine. I got it a little better, but it still has a bigger gap than i'd like.

I had to grind away some of the metal up near the pivot so it would pivot farther. I think installing a longer stud in the bottom to give more adjustment might be the next step. I was too tired of messing with it and put it all back together.

Next time I pull it apart I will try the longer stud. If that doesn't work the only other thing I can think of would be to put a very slight bend in the channel.

 

Adjusting doors, vent frames and side windows is sort of like LIFE. It is just one big COMPORMISE.

Just be patient!!!!

Chris, CWPASADENA

 

Worked on it some more after a long day at the office.I'm not crying uncle yet!!! I adjusted the bottom screw all the way in and checked the weatherstrip on top of the hardtop and even unclamped it.Pulled motors,trannies and everything in between.This one is kicking my butt.How do you get the top of the vent window to come in closer to the door frame for a nice even fit.?? I attached some pictures
Think its time for a martini !!

 

Here is a pic of mine. See the blue tape? To the left of the tape is the adjuster for in/out of the top of the frame. Above the tape is a pick that is pointing to the gap between the metal vent frame and the fiberglass door panel. In between those two you can see what looks like a washer (not seen in the picture, but you should see it if you look).

That "washer" is the flat part of the adjustment that the vent frame contacts. If that "washer" is tight up against the fiberglass, then you've run out of adjustment to bring the top of the frame in towards the center of the vehicle. Mine is about 1/16" from touching the fiberglass.



Now I'll have a beer and wait for your reply!

Edit: in this pic you can barely make out the "washer" I'm talking about.






Gerry

 

One more thing, Are you sure that the vent window is not installed too high so as to get caught on the hard top such that the hard top is holding the vent window out?

 

Vic,

It's hard to be sure from a photo, but in the photo showing the leading edge of the door at the front fender, it appears that the fender/door crease line doesn't line up. And, perhaps the door could be moved inward at the front fender. This would help the vent window as well.

Whadda ya think?

As Chris says, it's probably gonna be a matter of compromises in the final outcome . . . .

 

Thanks for the responses gentlemen.I counted 4 shims on each hinge. If I wanted the upper half of the door (under the vent window) to move closer to the body .Which shim would you add or remove ?

 

I'm also following this closely - I have the same problem on the driver's side of my '66. Looking forward to hearing how this turns out!!!

 

I would start by removing a shim from the top hinge.

 

You have lots of adjustment to work with.

What's ugly is when you have no shims and the door needs to come in.

Removing one shim from the top hinge should do it. Support the door with a floor jack and something like a padded 2x4, so it doesn't rotate and chip the paint at the bottom forward edge.

A question: did you change the weatherstrip on the windshield pillar?
If that vertical strip is tilted outboard at the top, it can compound your problems.