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Have the car on the road after a complete mechanical restoration
and find that the idle does not drop until well after the engine reaches
is full operating temperature. It idles as 1200-1400 rpm even when
the temp gauge is up to 180 ??
Sticky choke ? Something else ?
The car has side pipes and it's loud enough without sitting at a red
light when the car is at temperature and the idle is still at 1200-1400
Have the car on the road after a complete mechanical restoration
and find that the idle does not drop until well after the engine reaches
is full operating temperature. It idles as 1200-1400 rpm even when
the temp gauge is up to 180 ??
Sticky choke ? Something else ?
The car has side pipes and it's loud enough without sitting at a red
light when the car is at temperature and the idle is still at 1200-1400
Help ...
thanks,
Dave
choke needs leaned out on adjustment or fast idle cam is sticking...good luck....
Dave, you don't say what carb. If it's the type with the black round spring housing on the chock, it's set way to tight, back it off and see how it preforms. Bill
Dave, you don't say what carb. If it's the type with the black round spring housing on the chock, it's set way to tight, back it off and see how it preforms. Bill
i agree, work it by hand and loosen screws until it quits binding. mine has worked well since i did this.
Thanks guys... will try the 'adjustment' and see how it goes.
I backed off the idle just a bit and that seemed to have helped
get the car back to normal idle rpm after warm up. Why a slight
idle adjustment (I mean 1/8" turn down) would help the choke
is beyond me.
Don't know on this carb but on some there is a small piston that moves in a narrow cavity connected to the black plastic choke housing. They are notorious for 'binding' and causing problems.
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