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I have Moog 5758 stock non-A/C coil springs. They are just under 13" tall with no load. I am going to remove them and then cut 1 coil or 3/4" off and re-install them. I have read posts that say you don't need a spring compressor since they are shorter than the original factory springs. Is that correct?
I think the small block and f41 springs are short enough that you don't need a spring compressor. I would still guard against the spring flying out though.
I would use a compressor to be safe on dissassembly. If you put them in yourself and were able to install them without a compessor then that might be a different story. I'd hate for your next post to be about broken jaw or garage window.
They are short and easy to install. Just run a chain down through them and fasten the links with a good nut/bolt. Leave enough slack in the chain so the a-arm will go all the way down.
I swapped springs this week on my '68 from stock to Moog 5758's. I did NOT use compresser on stock or Moog. BUT make sure you use chain to avoid accidents. After installing Moog's vette was same height as stock so I pull them out and cut 1 coil which lower car by 2". Went from 27 5/8 to 25 5/8. Also installed 8" bolts to lower rear.
George
Car specs: 1968 Vette, 350 4 spd, PS, PB
Last edited by Black_Magic; Aug 28, 2009 at 08:14 PM.
I cut just about 1/4" short of a full coil on the Moog 5758 springs which equaled 3/4" reduction in free height. It was the end with the stamping which was a little flatter than the other end. How did that transfer to 2" under load ??? I thought for 1" free height it would be 1.6" lower under load so I cut 3/4" trying for 1" to 1 1/2" lower under load.
I cut just about 1/4" short of a full coil on the Moog 5758 springs which equaled 3/4" reduction in free height. It was the end with the stamping which was a little flatter than the other end. How did that transfer to 2" under load ??? I thought for 1" free height it would be 1.6" lower under load so I cut 3/4" trying for 1" to 1 1/2" lower under load.
Each car will be different based on weight. My '68 has iron heads, intake, exhaust and a long nose hanging out in front. If I was doing same on my '65 probaly wouldn't have gotten 2".
Each car will be different based on weight. My '68 has iron heads, intake, exhaust and a long nose hanging out in front. If I was doing same on my '65 probaly wouldn't have gotten 2".
George
I have aluminum intake and heads. I don't want 2" so sure hope it works for me. I am looking for 1" to 1 1/2" at most.
I cut just about 1/4" short of a full coil on the Moog 5758 springs which equaled 3/4" reduction in free height. It was the end with the stamping which was a little flatter than the other end. How did that transfer to 2" under load ??? I thought for 1" free height it would be 1.6" lower under load so I cut 3/4" trying for 1" to 1 1/2" lower under load.
I calculate the lever ratio at 1.5 based on some Chevy spring data, so a 3/4 shorter spring should drop the nose 3/4 X 1.5 = 1-1/8 inch (measured at the wheel lip).
Don't need a spring compressor. You can install and remove the springs without it. I use a chain through the coil spring for safety and lower and raise the lower a-arm with a floor jack.
BTW. good post and pics by Black Magic. My tall stock 67 springs and replacement springs looked like his. I got the really tall stock springs out w/o a spring compressor. Just jack the front up high enough to pull the a-arm down to the floor to remove it. The shorter replacement springs are easy in and out.
Last edited by Jeff Garner; Aug 29, 2009 at 09:35 AM.