U-bolt U-joint torque
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 265
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From: Derwood MD
St. Jude Donor '06-'09-'10-'11
U-bolt U-joint torque
Hi, All,
According to the AIM for my '66, the nut that fastens the U-bolt that holds the universal joint to the differential should be torqued 55-75 lbs.ft..
My question is: how in the world does one get a torque wrench on that nut? I have tried three t. wrenches and have moved the half-shaft around but all to no avail. If it can't be torqued, then how will I know that I have tightened the nut properly?
Thanks,
Jim
According to the AIM for my '66, the nut that fastens the U-bolt that holds the universal joint to the differential should be torqued 55-75 lbs.ft..
My question is: how in the world does one get a torque wrench on that nut? I have tried three t. wrenches and have moved the half-shaft around but all to no avail. If it can't be torqued, then how will I know that I have tightened the nut properly?
Thanks,
Jim
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,977
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From: Putnam Valley, New York. Amateur Radio Operator K2NS
U-bolt Torque
I haven't taken mine apart for over 30 years, so I can't tell you how it's done, but 55-75 foot pounds sounds awfully high for a 5/16 thread. Check that spec again, or when you finally figure out how to do it, you might end up with a stripped U-bolt.
RON
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,576
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From: Conroe Texas
My 65 AIM, UPS 4 sheet A2, shows the torque at 12-15 lbs-ft.
It is part of the U-bolt assembly, parts 8, 9, and 10. 8 is the U-bolt, 9 is the lock washer, and 10 is the nut which has torque footnote "5" associated with it. Footnote 5 indicates 12-15 lbs-ft
It is part of the U-bolt assembly, parts 8, 9, and 10. 8 is the U-bolt, 9 is the lock washer, and 10 is the nut which has torque footnote "5" associated with it. Footnote 5 indicates 12-15 lbs-ft
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2005
Posts: 1,977
Likes: 195
From: Putnam Valley, New York. Amateur Radio Operator K2NS
U-bolt Torque
I just looked at my 66 & 67 AIM's and the 55-75 foot pound torque is for nut # 12, which is your lug nut. The spec for nut #10 is unclear, as the triangle next to #10 is smudged in both my 66 & 67 AIM's. I really think that the correct torque is #4, which is 15-20 foot pounds.
RON
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 265
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From: Derwood MD
St. Jude Donor '06-'09-'10-'11
Thanks Ron and Jeff. Jeff, unlike your AIM my '66 book shows, if I am reading it correctly, that the U-bolt is#6, the lock washer is #5 and the nut #4 (I was nowhere close to #12!). My AIM is so blurry that small numbers are very difficult to read. I believe that you guys are correct with the low value that you sent so I'm going with that.
Still, no one has told me how to get a torque wrench on there, or does the low lbs.ft. value make an accurate setting not important?
Thanks again,
Jim
Still, no one has told me how to get a torque wrench on there, or does the low lbs.ft. value make an accurate setting not important?
Thanks again,
Jim
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,576
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From: Conroe Texas
I just looked at my 66 & 67 AIM's and the 55-75 foot pound torque is for nut # 12, which is your lug nut. The spec for nut #10 is unclear, as the triangle next to #10 is smudged in both my 66 & 67 AIM's. I really think that the correct torque is #4, which is 15-20 foot pounds.
RON
Jimbad for such a low torque number, I'd just snug it up by feel.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Dec 2002
Posts: 1,062
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From: Hasbrouck Heights NJ
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From: Bowling Green, Kentucky
Jim:
I have always tightened up with a box end wrench by hand and never had a problem (last 40 years or so).
However, if you want to torque, use a crowsfoot like a few others mentioned OR make yourself a "custom" extention from a box end wrench. Cut it in half and weld on a 3/8 " or 1/2 " socket (or part of a socket). I did this (custom extention) for torqueing my aluminum intake manifold bolts. Reduce torque value a few ft-lbs or use the lower value in the range.
For your U-joint application, I would just carefully tighten by hand and call it done.
Larry
I have always tightened up with a box end wrench by hand and never had a problem (last 40 years or so).
However, if you want to torque, use a crowsfoot like a few others mentioned OR make yourself a "custom" extention from a box end wrench. Cut it in half and weld on a 3/8 " or 1/2 " socket (or part of a socket). I did this (custom extention) for torqueing my aluminum intake manifold bolts. Reduce torque value a few ft-lbs or use the lower value in the range.
For your U-joint application, I would just carefully tighten by hand and call it done.
Larry
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2005
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From: Conroe Texas
Since a crow's foot moves the fastener location away from the pivot point for the torque wrench mechanism, won't the short distance between the two act as a lever to provide a higher torque reading at the fastener, than is indicated by the wrench?
Race Director
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From: Bowling Green, Kentucky
If the extention is over a few inches, I do the calculation and correct (reduce) the torque wrench set value.