I don't have the budget to send the frame out to a professional so will be doing it myself. What is the best paint to use on the frame? Would it be better to spray on or brush on?

Cheers,

Bob

 

My personal preference for a "driver" would be to use Rustolium or Por 15 with a brush and make sure you get the paint into every little crack and crevice. Just make sure you prep as best you can. Dennis

 

color 7777 is a satin black that I use exclusively for frames. You can buy a pint and see how you like the look.

For spraying, I thin it about 10% and use a 1.7 tip, same as a primer set-up.

No need to prime the bare metal. Just lay it on. You can apply a second coat after 2-3 days. Two medium coats are more durable than a single heavy coat.

Levels out great and is very chip resistant. Touches up extremely well (you'll appreciate that later).

For body-on situations, apply it with a professional high-density foam mini-roller. It will level out to look like it was sprayed.

And you can't beat the low material cost...

 

Hi. You could check this out. Masterseries coatings At www.nomorerust.com seems to be pretty impressive stuff .I've seem it at shows and the examples they have look really nice and you can spray or paint it on ,both examples looked great . I bought the stuff just haven't had the time to use it on the frame I'm doing . Just a thought hope this helps. Jeff

 

In retrospect, I would agree with your decision to do it yourself whether you have the budget for a "pro" or not. My frame is in for the second attempt at a satisfactory powder coat by a "pro". Who and what isn't important right now but there is no substitute for having someone interested in the outcome do the job - and that would be you.

 

BOB,
Three things to consider...or remember. First...make sure that your frame is as CLEAN as possible. This is where the majority of your time will come into play. The "nooks and crannies" are what will come back and haunt you later....due to lack of proper adhesion due to oil, dirt, heavy rust scale...etc. Also inspect your welds at this time.

Second...regardless of what product you choose to use. IF your have bare metal...make sure that the product is DESIGNED to be applied over bare metal. Often tiimes this product will be called or referenced as DTM ( direct to metal). This product has the required chemicals that will correctly adhere as needed for an outstanding result.

Third, and this is one that some regret not checking and getting repaired. IF the amount of alignment shims at your upper control arm shaft(s) are very thin or non-existant. SO that the upper control arm cross shaft is contacting the cradle bracket. THEN...NOW is the time to have your cradle stretched back into correct position.....so....when the car goes to get aligned, the alignment shop will have enough room that many shims can be installed to properly set your camber/caster.....and still have enough thickness in these shims that it will give you years and years of use without having to worry about alignment problems due to a collapsing cradle...which will occur again...due to design issues. I have seen more cars then I can count that either have a very thin shim ...or no shims in this area ...and when it comes time to getting the car aligned. The cradle has to be pulled back (stretched) so shims can be added and the process starts all over again.

I thought I would mention it so it is not a "WOULD-A, COULD-A, SHOULD-A" down the road to completion when the car is back on the frame and painted.

I have not used what MIKE mentioned. Try it like he mentioned...or look into it. There are really some high tech products out there. And doing your frame should only be a ONE TIME THING. I am lucky to have a powder coater who really cares about his work. So, I have stopped painting them unless they are going full blown NCRS.

Good luck on your project.
"DUB"

 

I use Eastwood frame paint. Do it youself You can not get anybody to do anything on time anyway . You may not see it for a year or two

 

I've used the Eastwood Extreme Chassis black epoxy on the last two cars I've built. It is very durable and the satin black has the perfect gloss level.

Jim

 

They have a new epoxy based chassis paint that is called Extreme. They say it's 3 times more chip resistant than their regular chassis paint. I painted my control arms with it about 6 months ago,and they still look like new. They call it a satin finish, I would call it semi-gloss.

 

http://www.por15.com/CHASSIS-COAT-BL...oductinfo/CHG/

 

I did my 57 chev 2 door h/t with POR 15 with a brush and it looks like it done with a gun.

 

I hate it for those of you who feel this way. A YEAR OR TWO!!!! I guess that I am lucky in having a powder coater who gets parts back to me quickly. Generally frames and all parts are back in my shop in under ONE month...and well worth the wait...seeing how I am working on other areas of repair anyway.

"DUB"