Help with a 58 Corvette
#21
Team Owner
I'm with Jeff on this....the major components are on the car and it has lots of potential....especially if its got the big brake option (and its a fuelie). Not something I would tackle as I've never been a fan of the '58....the washboard hood looked hokey to me and still does. But no denying they are popular now (and priced accordingly).
You would have to pick this up for the right money though not to be under water in a major way after restoration costs.....and yes it is absolutely a 'project'...
You would have to pick this up for the right money though not to be under water in a major way after restoration costs.....and yes it is absolutely a 'project'...
#22
Le Mans Master
Its a good complete project. I also don't think its a big brake car, but it might have the wheels and caps for it.
Its pretty complete. If its really #s matching, you have an even better candidate.
If you're looking for a car to restore and enjoy for yourself, go for it. If you want to restore it to turn a profit, you'll lose out(unless you do ALL the labor).
I also think its worth low $20Ks.
Its pretty complete. If its really #s matching, you have an even better candidate.
If you're looking for a car to restore and enjoy for yourself, go for it. If you want to restore it to turn a profit, you'll lose out(unless you do ALL the labor).
I also think its worth low $20Ks.
#23
8th Gear
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Thank you for all the responses. I plan on getting it on a lift tomorrow. I will post pics of the frame and see if I can get better pics of the brakes. Is there anything else I should photo?
Thanks
Thanks
#24
Instructor
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engine pics....
Get close ups of the fi unit (tag), the dist., the radiator (tag), the generator, the motor pad (front right by head), casting numbers on trans main case and output shaft among other stuff..
Also, the car doesn't have the air duct openings behind the front bumpers, so it does not have the heavy duty brakes/suspension option. I dont think the wheels are the 5-1/2" wheels, but I can't be sure with the pics you had. Take better pics of the wheels (striaght on and at an angle) and pics of the brake backing plates, and the steering connection in the center of the front cross member.
Also, take pics of the frame (well lit) at the x-member, the main frame rails under the seats, the frame rails that kick up over the axle, the cross member for the shock mounts, and the rear cross member. We are highly suspect that you got a good deal of rust, which may or may not mean a frame replacement. Also, get pics of the front suspension a-arms to see if they or the front cross member are rusty as well.
While you are at it, take some looking up into the front wheelwells, this will help see if there's hidden old damage to the body panels. And take some inside the trunk, showing the floor and the inner wheelwells, so we can look for damage there too. Hidden body damage will just add to the cost to restore correctly and affects the value like all the other 'stuff' we've listed before.
Good luck and have fun taking pics!
Also, the car doesn't have the air duct openings behind the front bumpers, so it does not have the heavy duty brakes/suspension option. I dont think the wheels are the 5-1/2" wheels, but I can't be sure with the pics you had. Take better pics of the wheels (striaght on and at an angle) and pics of the brake backing plates, and the steering connection in the center of the front cross member.
Also, take pics of the frame (well lit) at the x-member, the main frame rails under the seats, the frame rails that kick up over the axle, the cross member for the shock mounts, and the rear cross member. We are highly suspect that you got a good deal of rust, which may or may not mean a frame replacement. Also, get pics of the front suspension a-arms to see if they or the front cross member are rusty as well.
While you are at it, take some looking up into the front wheelwells, this will help see if there's hidden old damage to the body panels. And take some inside the trunk, showing the floor and the inner wheelwells, so we can look for damage there too. Hidden body damage will just add to the cost to restore correctly and affects the value like all the other 'stuff' we've listed before.
Good luck and have fun taking pics!
#25
Race Director
Too bad cars like this weren't stored properly.
Had the car sat in a dry garage in AZ or UT or MT for 40 years, instead of under an oak tree back east under a tarp, it would be a totally different animal.
The massive amounts of rust on everything mean everything needs to be replaced for a top flight restoration, simply blasting and painting will leave lots of pitting underneath the paint and is OK for a driver or weekend show n shine car.
I would guess that no amount of blasting will clean up the frame and it will be a pitted painted wonder unless replaced, and the next owner will just call it surface rust that was cleaned up.
The leaves and corrosion on the motor intake makes me wonder how salvageable the FI unit it for show quality, which is what makes a $100K car.
I would be afraid to look at the frame and interior steel supports, at least the 1958 cars used aluminum under the dash for some of this, so it won't be eaten through.
Doug
Had the car sat in a dry garage in AZ or UT or MT for 40 years, instead of under an oak tree back east under a tarp, it would be a totally different animal.
The massive amounts of rust on everything mean everything needs to be replaced for a top flight restoration, simply blasting and painting will leave lots of pitting underneath the paint and is OK for a driver or weekend show n shine car.
I would guess that no amount of blasting will clean up the frame and it will be a pitted painted wonder unless replaced, and the next owner will just call it surface rust that was cleaned up.
The leaves and corrosion on the motor intake makes me wonder how salvageable the FI unit it for show quality, which is what makes a $100K car.
I would be afraid to look at the frame and interior steel supports, at least the 1958 cars used aluminum under the dash for some of this, so it won't be eaten through.
Doug
#26
Le Mans Master
Be still, my beating heart!
I would pay $30,000 for such a car in a heartbeat.
First I'd take about 1,000,000 photographs. Then I'd clean it carefully before taking about 1,000,000 more photos. Then I'd make the minimum repairs necessary to get it safe and reliable to drive. Then I'd ruin some tires!
You can call me kinky, but I kid you not.
First I'd take about 1,000,000 photographs. Then I'd clean it carefully before taking about 1,000,000 more photos. Then I'd make the minimum repairs necessary to get it safe and reliable to drive. Then I'd ruin some tires!
You can call me kinky, but I kid you not.
#28
Melting Slicks
Member Since: Oct 2005
Location: New Jersey. The deer ate my Garden State.
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I would pay $30,000 for such a car in a heartbeat.
First I'd take about 1,000,000 photographs. Then I'd clean it carefully before taking about 1,000,000 more photos. Then I'd make the minimum repairs necessary to get it safe and reliable to drive. Then I'd ruin some tires!
You can call me kinky, but I kid you not.
First I'd take about 1,000,000 photographs. Then I'd clean it carefully before taking about 1,000,000 more photos. Then I'd make the minimum repairs necessary to get it safe and reliable to drive. Then I'd ruin some tires!
You can call me kinky, but I kid you not.
#29
Le Mans Master
#30
Le Mans Master
Let's make this easy.
My Top Secret contact info:
jerrybramlett@comcast.net
(251) 478-4003 8 am to 9 pm Central Time
151 Levert Ave., Mobile, AL, 36607
p.s. I won't be interested after someone takes it apart and starts restoring or restomododestroying it. Sorry.
p.p.s. Yes, I do want all the leaves and the block of wood on the cowl, too.
jerrybramlett@comcast.net
(251) 478-4003 8 am to 9 pm Central Time
151 Levert Ave., Mobile, AL, 36607
p.s. I won't be interested after someone takes it apart and starts restoring or restomododestroying it. Sorry.
p.p.s. Yes, I do want all the leaves and the block of wood on the cowl, too.
Last edited by jerrybramlett; 10-26-2009 at 09:36 AM.
#31
8th Gear
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I got the car on a lift today. The frame doesn't look too bad. No holes in it. The numbers do match on the engine, transmission, fuel injection, generator, and radiator. We weren't able to check the distributor, but I have a good authority who says it looks original. The rear diff is a '64 4.10 (or 4.11, whatever it takes). I took a bunch of pictures, but am having trouble with the media card. I hope to have them up by tomorrow evening. Thank you for all the commnts.