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Just had the original AFB carb rebuilt for my 63, runs great, only problem when cold I set the choke to start and it does not work, so i have to pump the gas to keep it running till warmed up....question how do you set the choke to make it work properly. thanks Mike
First make sure the engine is dead cold. Assuming it's an original electric choke and it's not moving in the close position. Make sure you two leads are hooked up correctly. If necessary test with a test light. If so, it may just be the choke coil (black bakelite circular thing) on the side of the carb is turned in the wrong direction. Look at it, should read lean in one direction and rich in the other with the cover having a raised pointer so to speak. You want to just loosen the two or three screws enough to turn the cover toward rich by a couple of notches. Hit your throttle linkage as if your starting the car. The choke butterfly should close most of the way, maybe except for a 1/4 inch. I don't have the exact spec for this, but someone here on the forum may. After this, it should get you in the ball park and then tweek it from there. Good luck! Dennis
I see now it's a heat stove choke. Heat source from the right side exhaust manifold. The bakelite cover still should have a gradation on it for lean and rich. Is the choke butterfly closing/moving at all when you trip the throttle linkage. If not, you don't have enough tension on it or its not hooked up correctly. As the tube passes heat up to the thermostatic coil it expands and takes the tension off of the linkage, thereby opening the choke to full verticle. Keep at it. Dennis
Last edited by Bluestripe67; Oct 26, 2009 at 09:53 PM.
Just had the original AFB carb rebuilt for my 63, runs great, only problem when cold I set the choke to start and it does not work, so i have to pump the gas to keep it running till warmed up....question how do you set the choke to make it work properly. thanks Mike
try loosening the three cover screws just a little at a time until it opens freely. I rebuilt my choke and after many frustrating hours, this turned out to be the solution. Think it should be set at minus 1 also, but check your book. luck, let us know how you make out. mine has worked fine for a few years now.
I have same afb set up on my 63 swc. There is a moving piston inside the choke housing. This is worked by a thermostatic spring (coil). Try cleaning area and make sure piston slides freely in housing. I used fine emery to clean up piston and this corrected my problem. good luck, Abe G
I have same afb set up on my 63 swc. There is a moving piston inside the choke housing. This is worked by a thermostatic spring (coil). Try cleaning area and make sure piston slides freely in housing. I used fine emery to clean up piston and this corrected my problem. good luck, Abe G
the piston you refer to is the "pull off" or vacuum break piston and it simply opens the choke plate a bit after start up......it is not really controlled by the bi metal spring......
In my original shop manual, diagram shows choke piston connected to thermostatic spring (coil) directly. I dont knowwhere cacumn has any effect? Regards, Abe G
In my original shop manual, diagram shows choke piston connected to thermostatic spring (coil) directly. I dont knowwhere cacumn has any effect? Regards, Abe G
See Figure 13. The choke piston is connected to a lever that goes through the back of the choke housing and operates the intermediate choke rod, which is connected to the end of the shaft that carries the choke plate. When the engine starts, manifold vacuum on the piston pulls the choke plate partially open so the engine will run.
The end of the bimetallic spring in the choke housing engages the tang on that lever, which sets the choke plate full closed for cold start, and as the engine warms up, hot air from the tube in the exhaust manifold causes the bimetallic spring to relax, fully opening the choke plate.