Side Pipe Stud Removal ????????
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 606
Likes: 11
From: Los Gatos, CA
Side Pipe Stud Removal ????????
I pulled the right exhaust header and side pipe off (b/c I pulled the engine for a rebuild), but the left side pipe studs just spin inside the frame (closed tube).... the front and the rear both spin when I try to loosen the nuts.
Anyone had experience with this and know how to remove (without sawzall'ing or torching them off) ???
When the right side came off the front nut loosened no problem (stud didn't move), but the rear spun, and I had to **** the pipe so that the slotted head caught / bound-up in the slotted hole - which allowed me to put enough pressure on the rear stud to bind it inside the frame and wrench the nut off.
However, I can't manipulate the left side pipe b/c both studs are still in, fully seated, and are both spinning (which means I can't angle the pipe).
Hmmm.
Help please.
DS
Anyone had experience with this and know how to remove (without sawzall'ing or torching them off) ???
When the right side came off the front nut loosened no problem (stud didn't move), but the rear spun, and I had to **** the pipe so that the slotted head caught / bound-up in the slotted hole - which allowed me to put enough pressure on the rear stud to bind it inside the frame and wrench the nut off.
However, I can't manipulate the left side pipe b/c both studs are still in, fully seated, and are both spinning (which means I can't angle the pipe).
Hmmm.
Help please.
DS
Last edited by DesertSpider; Dec 6, 2009 at 09:10 PM.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 606
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From: Los Gatos, CA
Hoping for an alternative solution.
How did GM originally intend for this to be done ?
DS
Last edited by DesertSpider; Dec 6, 2009 at 09:34 PM.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2004
Posts: 4,182
Likes: 94
From: going faster miles an hour...with the radio on in browns mills new jersey
Is the header disconnected from the head?
If the nuts are loose enough to spin, you could try to gently drive the brackets forward or backward along the frame enough to expose a bit of the slot in the frame.. Stick something like an offset phillips screwdriver into the exposed slot.
The side mount bolts have a "T" on the end. What you stick into the slot on the frame will stop the bolt from being able to spin.
If the nuts are loose enough to spin, you could try to gently drive the brackets forward or backward along the frame enough to expose a bit of the slot in the frame.. Stick something like an offset phillips screwdriver into the exposed slot.
The side mount bolts have a "T" on the end. What you stick into the slot on the frame will stop the bolt from being able to spin.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,937
Likes: 163
From: OP Kansas
C2 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
You can try to take a flat screwdriver or pry bar and put it between the frame and the bracket and pull down to make the head of the bolt bind against the inside of the frame. That might just be enough to get the nuts off.
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Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 606
Likes: 11
From: Los Gatos, CA
Yes, engine is out - right side header and pipe are out of car as well, only left side header and left side pipe remain.
I like this idea, I'll give this a shot.
If the nuts are loose enough to spin, you could try to gently drive the brackets forward or backward along the frame enough to expose a bit of the slot in the frame.. Stick something like an offset phillips screwdriver into the exposed slot.
The side mount bolts have a "T" on the end. What you stick into the slot on the frame will stop the bolt from being able to spin.
The side mount bolts have a "T" on the end. What you stick into the slot on the frame will stop the bolt from being able to spin.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 606
Likes: 11
From: Los Gatos, CA
Thx for the comment.
DS
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 606
Likes: 11
From: Los Gatos, CA
A buddy helping me suggested either something like this:
Or using one of these with a wrench so that the end of the stud "grounds out":
Then I've got to get it the rest of the way off by either holding onto the portion of the stud down by the shoulder or binding the head up somehow in the frame....
grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
Or using one of these with a wrench so that the end of the stud "grounds out":
Then I've got to get it the rest of the way off by either holding onto the portion of the stud down by the shoulder or binding the head up somehow in the frame....
grrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrrr
Racer
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 353
Likes: 114
From: South Carolina
Carriage Bolt
The rear attachment bolt is supposed to be a carriage bolt. The square under the head fits into the frame slot and prevents the bolt from turning. When they get rusty they are a PIA to remove. The bolt head will slide out of the slot if you get it to loosen a bit, then remove the whole assembly and cut it off with a hacksaw.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 606
Likes: 11
From: Los Gatos, CA
The rear attachment bolt is supposed to be a carriage bolt. The square under the head fits into the frame slot and prevents the bolt from turning. When they get rusty they are a PIA to remove. The bolt head will slide out of the slot if you get it to loosen a bit, then remove the whole assembly and cut it off with a hacksaw.
I get what you are saying. Where do I get new ones that have the square shoulder (the usual: Ecklers / MidAm) ?
DS
Racer
Joined: Sep 2004
Posts: 353
Likes: 114
From: South Carolina
Use a regular 3/8-16 carriage bolt and lock nut from Lowes or Home Depot. Get a galvanized if originality is not a concern and it will never rust. These are soft bolts, so don't over-tighten, or they will break. They are strong enough to do the job.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2009
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From: Los Gatos, CA
Out of curiosity, do you have a picture of this set-up ?
This seems like a good alternative to finding exact replacements (since those aren't working out too well).
DS
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,194
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From: Seattle area, WA (On the Eastside)
I think that with Hookers, originality would not be an issue. Therefore, getting or cutting those out no matter how destroyed those bolts get is the priority.
Then, when time to install, flatten out the brackets on the sidepipe and have some bolts welded externally to the frame. It's virtually unseen from the point of view that people have while looking at cars at shows.
I had this problem and decided to just give up on the original design that Hooker Headers intended by using those frame slots. Besides, I could not find replacement bolts for the life of me. So I improvised.
I took it to a muffler shop and told them what I wanted...they said they do that on many vehicles. They provided four bolts and installed both sides for $85.00!
It also makes it easier to remove as often as you need rather than trying to thread those darn things into the slots and messing with the rocker panels as directed by Hooker! I've had to remove mine at least four times already, and it was a sinch!
I'll see if I can get some photos after work today. It's pretty cold in the garage though.
Then, when time to install, flatten out the brackets on the sidepipe and have some bolts welded externally to the frame. It's virtually unseen from the point of view that people have while looking at cars at shows.
I had this problem and decided to just give up on the original design that Hooker Headers intended by using those frame slots. Besides, I could not find replacement bolts for the life of me. So I improvised.
I took it to a muffler shop and told them what I wanted...they said they do that on many vehicles. They provided four bolts and installed both sides for $85.00!
It also makes it easier to remove as often as you need rather than trying to thread those darn things into the slots and messing with the rocker panels as directed by Hooker! I've had to remove mine at least four times already, and it was a sinch!
I'll see if I can get some photos after work today. It's pretty cold in the garage though.
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,554
Likes: 168
From: Wi
Is the neck dimension (size of the square beneath the head) large enough on a 3/8-16 carriage to fill up the slot width in the frame ?
Out of curiosity, do you have a picture of this set-up ?
This seems like a good alternative to finding exact replacements (since those aren't working out too well).
DS
Out of curiosity, do you have a picture of this set-up ?
This seems like a good alternative to finding exact replacements (since those aren't working out too well).
DS
Drifting
Joined: Jul 2004
Posts: 1,554
Likes: 168
From: Wi
I think that with Hookers, originality would not be an issue. Therefore, getting or cutting those out no matter how destroyed those bolts get is the priority.
Then, when time to install, flatten out the brackets on the sidepipe and have some bolts welded externally to the frame. It's virtually unseen from the point of view that people have while looking at cars at shows.
I had this problem and decided to just give up on the original design that Hooker Headers intended by using those frame slots. Besides, I could not find replacement bolts for the life of me. So I improvised.
I took it to a muffler shop and told them what I wanted...they said they do that on many vehicles. They provided four bolts and installed both sides for $85.00!
It also makes it easier to remove as often as you need rather than trying to thread those darn things into the slots and messing with the rocker panels as directed by Hooker! I've had to remove mine at least four times already, and it was a sinch!
I'll see if I can get some photos after work today. It's pretty cold in the garage though.
Then, when time to install, flatten out the brackets on the sidepipe and have some bolts welded externally to the frame. It's virtually unseen from the point of view that people have while looking at cars at shows.
I had this problem and decided to just give up on the original design that Hooker Headers intended by using those frame slots. Besides, I could not find replacement bolts for the life of me. So I improvised.
I took it to a muffler shop and told them what I wanted...they said they do that on many vehicles. They provided four bolts and installed both sides for $85.00!
It also makes it easier to remove as often as you need rather than trying to thread those darn things into the slots and messing with the rocker panels as directed by Hooker! I've had to remove mine at least four times already, and it was a sinch!
I'll see if I can get some photos after work today. It's pretty cold in the garage though.
Thread Starter
Pro
Joined: May 2009
Posts: 606
Likes: 11
From: Los Gatos, CA
I think that with Hookers, originality would not be an issue. Therefore, getting or cutting those out no matter how destroyed those bolts get is the priority. Then, when time to install, flatten out the brackets on the sidepipe and have some bolts welded externally to the frame. It's virtually unseen from the point of view that people have while looking at cars at shows.
I had this problem and decided to just give up on the original design that Hooker Headers intended by using those frame slots. Besides, I could not find replacement bolts for the life of me. So I improvised. I took it to a muffler shop and told them what I wanted...they said they do that on many vehicles. They provided four bolts and installed both sides for $85.00! It also makes it easier to remove as often as you need rather than trying to thread those darn things into the slots and messing with the rocker panels as directed by Hooker! I've had to remove mine at least four times already, and it was a sinch! I'll see if I can get some photos after work today.
Best $100 I've spent this year (Lowes), runs on the same tank I use for my grill, just vent the garage a little and this thing keeps it TOASTY:
