Hello All,

First time poster.

A nutshell history:

My step-father and I spent a number of years restoring a silver 63 coupe together. He passed a couple of years back, and the car is in my hands to continue the love and care that it deserves.

The car sat for a little while in NY as I got my life together across the country. I would drive her about 2 or 3 times a year for the past 4 years when I came home to visit so she didn't sit idle the whole time.

When I got her out here, I discovered the rear crossover brake line was rotted so I have purchased all of the necessary parts to replace the crossover and the rubber brake lines all around ( the rubber was a bit dry for all so I just bought 4 instead of just 2).

The problem I am facing is removing the drivers side rear knock off.

From memory, the wheel just knocked off and that was the case with the passenger side rear. I am having a really tough time removing the driver side rear and my fear is that the KO is rusted on.... The pass side rear had plenty of anti-seize on it so I imagine my father put just as much on the drivers side rear as well when they were put on.

I don't remember this being the case... but should the center cap come off first before trying to knock off the spinner?? I have not seen any information online or in the shop manual for having to remove the center cap first.

Any advice from the forum experts?

Thanks in advance! Happy New Year!

 

Remove the center cup and then you see the lock pin that secures the wing nut. Remember that some are counter clock wise

Have a look a the pic

 

Those pins were only used on reproduction knock-offs. Original knock-offs would not have those in place, unless some previous owner created their own mechanism.

Remove the center cap, and check for pins. If you don't have any, then confirm the direction the spinner should be turned to loosen it. There should be directional arrows on the side of the spinner.

 

No 1963's came from the factory with knock offs. Of course the car could have some 1964-1966 factory originals installed(at a later date), but I bet the car has reproductions that have the pins.

 

My driver's side rear knock off comes off in the standard counter clockwise direction.

even with anti seize, the best way is to just knock the heck out of the spinner with a lead hammer, without hitting the fender...

On my previous 66, I had a terrible time without the anti seize on it when I bought the car, so always use the anti seize. Usually to tighten it back, tighten, put the pin in, then drive it a little ways and then tighten it up a little more..

Good luck, Zale

 

My understanding is there is a tool that attaches to a breaker bar. It fits around the knock off and can be used to leverage the knock off rather than beat the heck out of the knock off with the lead hammer. You may want to consider this method. Though I haven't had a reason to look for one, two of my friends use this tool and swear by it.

 

On the previous 66 I had, I had the knock off wheel that I could not get off. I bought that $250. tool that you are talking about with the breaker bar, and I still have it.

My friend and I could not get my knock off to come off with the fancy tool.

So he beat the crap out of the knock off with my lead hammer and it came off finally. Did not hurt the knock off, but put some dents in the lead hammer... Ha!

So now I have a worthless $250. fancy knock off tool in my garage.

 

If the KO's are installed according to directions, see below, passenger side KO's are left hand thread and loosen in a clockwise direction.

 

OK so I have determined they must be repro KO's as there is a center cap and locking pin...

I was able to take out the locking pin but I feel like the KO just doesn't BUDGE!!!

I have been using a Stanley dead-blow molded plastic hammer to do this and I have put all my strength on a couple of good knocks (missing the fender of course).

I will try the Lead Hammer..

zpletcher - That's what I was afraid of... I saw that fancy tool too and the thought already crossed my mind but I wasn't sure if I would end up the same way.


Thanks for the great advice guys. I knew this was the right place to come.

 

Use a short handled, five pound steel sledge hammer against a piece of wood laying on the spinner ear. Leave the tire on the ground and fully inflated. That should take the spinner off. Quit wasting your time with the dead blow.

Don't use the dead blow hammer to final tighten the spinner when you put it back on. It's okay to get it snug with the dead blow. Use the lead hammer for final tightening. Use the five pounder. When the spinner gets tight, you'll know it and it will get tight without a bunch of wild flailing/cursing on your part.

If your threads are clean and burr free, lubed with anti-seize or white grease, the spinners will come loose easily with a couple easy licks of the five pound lead hammer.