when I did my 60 frame, first I had it sandblasted, then it went through a 5 stage washer at the powder coater. The washer gets any oils even those from your hands off the metal. It also provides "extra" surface treatment to really get exceptional bonding of the powder to the frame.

Then the frame was powder coated and baked. After it came out of the oven, they ran it through the powder coating line one more time. This time they turned off the gun electrostatics and shot directly into all the corners of the frame (electrostatics has a phenomenon Faraday caging, which basically means that the powder when charged does not want to go all the way into a corner because as you get close to the corner the electrostatic forces that cause the powder paint to stick to the part to begin with will pull the paint particles to the nearest grounded part, hence long before the paint gets to the very corner it has gone to the side of the frame). When the frame is hot out of the oven and you shot powder on it, it doesn't need the electrostatics to stick because when it hits the metal it will stick because it will start to melt and flow. this makes sure that the corners are covered.

Then they took the powder guns and shot them down the inside of frame rails. Again because the frame was hot the powder stuck to the inside. Then back through the oven for one last bake cycle. That is what I did with my frame.

Powder coating is tough stuff, you can't go wrong with it!

 

Why use conventional paint that won't stand the test of time? I've powder coated several NCRS top Flight cars and have NEVER had a point deduction.

My customers spend upwards of six figures and want their restoration to last longer than they do. It all comes down to personal preference, in the end.

Their's not a right way or wrong way when comparing paint and powder coat. Just a choice.

 

You're in a good part of the country, KNIPPS. You have a lot of choices.

I had my frame dipped at Striprite. They're in Union Grove, WI. The web page isn't much.

http://striprite.net/index.htm

The building isn't much either. Dave is the owner and I think he's a one man show.

But he does GREAT work. $550 for my frame to get dipped back in early '08. I also had him do the diff crossmember.

I then had it welded and powdercoated.

Here's a few stories to read about my process on the frame.

http://www.vetteaction.com/modules/n...php?storyid=35

http://www.vetteaction.com/modules/n...php?storyid=36

http://www.vetteaction.com/modules/n...php?storyid=37

 

When I did my frame some 20 years ago, I had it dipped, then I cleaned it with a cleaning solvent to prep for paint (I had some problems with paint adhesion and had to grind some areas down and clean again before re-painting, so be extremely meticulous with this step). I painted it with Imron-recommended self-etching primer and then with slightly-flattened black Imron epoxy ... if I were doing it again I would have it lightly sandblasted (or bead-blasted) after cleaning (blocking holes first), and wipe it down again with liberal applications of cleaner before painting. Powder coating may be ideal, but in my area it was nearly as expensive as chrome plating. The stripper (some 90 miles away from me) offered to deliver it to a powder coater near him, but I was concerned that I wouldn't have an opportunity to closely inspect the bare frame, nor would I ever be certain the right steps were taken to neutralize the dip chemicals and clean before coating it, since I wouldn't see the frame being prepped (and, of course, the $$$ were very high), so I did the cleaning & painting myself .

I think this might be the 3-M product I used, as it also was an amber color: http://tinyurl.com/y97jjx3

The applicator I used was an inexpensive aluminum trigger gun for an air compressor, with about 3 or 4 differently-shaped wands and a few different spray-pattern tips... the wands could even be joined together, to fashion a shape that would get deep into the areas inside the frame (I think it cost me about $40 back then, from JC Whitney).

Since I did it all myself, I know it was done the way I wanted it done.

 

Thanks for all the info...I guess I really cant go wrong no matter what I do. I want the car to look original and I want a finish that will hold up (i only want to do this once) because I WILL

 

OOPS.... drive this car alot...I do appreciate all the info...thanks

 

That's exactly what I intend to do with my car (once it is done through the judging circuit).

 

Stingray1967 that is some amazing work done on your frame. Hats off
Looking at that newly painted frame and lovely engine next to it makes wanna goo out in the garage and start doing some work on my car

 

Thanks. It's amazing what 550 hours of your personal time across three calendar years will get you these days....plus a LOT of checks written out to MANY MANY people.

 

I used redistrip back in 85 and was super happy with results, this was in san antonio and they have not been there for years.