Replacing lower control arm bolts
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 916
Likes: 2
From: prescott arizona
Replacing lower control arm bolts
I'm hopeing someone has an answer to my question. I've been cleaning up the front suspension on my 65 coupe and I would like to replace the bolts and large washers on the front of the lower a-arms. The suspension is still totally assembled with the coil springs installed. I'm afraid to remove and replace them one at a time because of the spring tension. My question is, can I do it or will the spring tension get me into some serious trouble? Thanks in advance for your answers!
Team Owner
Joined: May 2006
Posts: 37,671
Likes: 1,116
From: CA
I'm hopeing someone has an answer to my question. I've been cleaning up the front suspension on my 65 coupe and I would like to replace the bolts and large washers on the front of the lower a-arms. The suspension is still totally assembled with the coil springs installed. I'm afraid to remove and replace them one at a time because of the spring tension. My question is, can I do it or will the spring tension get me into some serious trouble? Thanks in advance for your answers!
good luck
jack
Drifting
Joined: Nov 2003
Posts: 1,680
Likes: 68
From: Towanda KS
If you are talking about the bolts that thread into the end of the shaft that the control arm pivots about, you can remove these with no problems. In fact, after a control arm rebuild, you are supposed to leave these loose until the weight of the car is on the suspension before you torque them tight.
good luck,
tc
good luck,
tc
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 5,401
Likes: 986
From: Itasca IL
I'm hopeing someone has an answer to my question. I've been cleaning up the front suspension on my 65 coupe and I would like to replace the bolts and large washers on the front of the lower a-arms. The suspension is still totally assembled with the coil springs installed. I'm afraid to remove and replace them one at a time because of the spring tension. My question is, can I do it or will the spring tension get me into some serious trouble? Thanks in advance for your answers!
If you are referring to the large bolt, nut, and serrated washer that mounts the rear of the cross shaft to the frame crossmember, this is trickier and somewhat dangerous. I have done it with the suspension assembled and the weight off the front wheels , car jacked off the ground. It's disconcerting when the cross shaft bows away from the frame with the bolt removed. I had to do this once because I had a car in which someone installed the bolts in the wrong direction and **** like that drives me crazy. I got the bolts re-installed and torqued without difficulty. The key is the suspension must be unloaded and the wheels of the ground. Putting a jack under the control arms simply increases the load on the bolt and would make the job impossible (trust me, I tried).
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 916
Likes: 2
From: prescott arizona
Seems to be no concenses of opinions , so I guess I'll error on the safe side and leave well enough alone, unless John Z can give his expert take on this. Are you out there John Z?
Advanced
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 93
Likes: 28
From: Wherever
I'm hopeing someone has an answer to my question. I've been cleaning up the front suspension on my 65 coupe and I would like to replace the bolts and large washers on the front of the lower a-arms. The suspension is still totally assembled with the coil springs installed. I'm afraid to remove and replace them one at a time because of the spring tension. My question is, can I do it or will the spring tension get me into some serious trouble? Thanks in advance for your answers!
When I rebuilt the suspension on my '65, I disassembled and re-assembled the springs and suspension members by removing the shock absorber from the center of the spring and temporarily replacing it with a 3 foot long piece of 1/2" threaded rod up the center of coil. Put some big flat washers and 1/2" nuts on each end and then tighten the nuts until it just picks up the load of the spring. Then you can remove the fasteners to the A-arms while they are under no load and the parts will not move unless you loosen the nuts on the threaded rod.
When I disassembled my suspension, I then simply removed all the A-frame attachment hardware and spindle and then backed the nuts off on the long threaded rod until the spring was completely unloaded, making the process very safe and controlled. Re-assembly was simply a reversal of the process. HTH.
Last edited by RestoVette; Jan 26, 2010 at 02:21 AM.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,737
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From: Central Arkansas
I did this on my car and replaced the smaller front bolts, one at a time, without problem. However, I got nervous when I tried this on the large rear bolt and gave up. It was definately moving and I wasn't sure how far. I figure I'll do it the next time the suspension is apart. Should have used new bolts when I did the frame off.
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Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 5,401
Likes: 986
From: Itasca IL
I did this on my car and replaced the smaller front bolts, one at a time, without problem. However, I got nervous when I tried this on the large rear bolt and gave up. It was definately moving and I wasn't sure how far. I figure I'll do it the next time the suspension is apart. Should have used new bolts when I did the frame off.
I have found that doing the rear requires pry bar, SUSPENSION UNLOADED, and steady nerves.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 916
Likes: 2
From: prescott arizona
If I understand what you're asking.....
When I rebuilt the suspension on my '65, I disassembled and re-assembled the springs and suspension members by removing the shock absorber from the center of the spring and temporarily replacing it with a 3 foot long piece of 1/2" threaded rod up the center of coil. Put some big flat washers and 1/2" nuts on each end and then tighten the nuts until it just picks up the load of the spring. Then you can remove the fasteners to the A-arms while they are under no load and the parts will not move unless you loosen the nuts on the threaded rod.
When I disassembled my suspension, I then simply removed all the A-frame attachment hardware and spindle and then backed the nuts off on the long threaded rod until the spring was completely unloaded, making the process very safe and controlled. Re-assembly was simply a reversal of the process. HTH.
When I rebuilt the suspension on my '65, I disassembled and re-assembled the springs and suspension members by removing the shock absorber from the center of the spring and temporarily replacing it with a 3 foot long piece of 1/2" threaded rod up the center of coil. Put some big flat washers and 1/2" nuts on each end and then tighten the nuts until it just picks up the load of the spring. Then you can remove the fasteners to the A-arms while they are under no load and the parts will not move unless you loosen the nuts on the threaded rod.
When I disassembled my suspension, I then simply removed all the A-frame attachment hardware and spindle and then backed the nuts off on the long threaded rod until the spring was completely unloaded, making the process very safe and controlled. Re-assembly was simply a reversal of the process. HTH.
Team Owner
Joined: Oct 2000
Posts: 38,897
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From: Washington Michigan
The axial bolts through the big cup washer/retainers that screw into the ends of the control arm shafts can be removed with no issues; the bushings are already fully-seated on the round portion of the shafts and aren't going anywhere - the bolts just keep the big washers tight against the ends of the inner bushing sleeves. Don't re-tighten them unless the car is on wheels at normal ride height.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Feb 2008
Posts: 916
Likes: 2
From: prescott arizona
The axial bolts through the big cup washer/retainers that screw into the ends of the control arm shafts can be removed with no issues; the bushings are already fully-seated on the round portion of the shafts and aren't going anywhere - the bolts just keep the big washers tight against the ends of the inner bushing sleeves. Don't re-tighten them unless the car is on wheels at normal ride height.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,737
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From: Central Arkansas
Reference the front bolts, it doesn't matter how the car is supported. You can do them one at a time while the control arm is jacked, the wheels are off the ground, or the car is sitting on all four tires.
I have found that doing the rear requires pry bar, SUSPENSION UNLOADED, and steady nerves.
I have found that doing the rear requires pry bar, SUSPENSION UNLOADED, and steady nerves.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 5,401
Likes: 986
From: Itasca IL
The fronts are cake. I don't advocate doing the rears as I did. It was one of the FEW times where I cut a corner and the result was positive. Taking the rear bolt out even with the suspension unloaded will pull the cross shaft away from the frame at least 1/4". This is very disconcerting, but I had a situation where the bolts were installed backwards (i.e., nuts on the top) and one side was missing the serrated washer.
Race Director
Joined: Jan 2003
Posts: 17,737
Likes: 3,722
From: Central Arkansas
Dan,
The fronts are cake. I don't advocate doing the rears as I did. It was one of the FEW times where I cut a corner and the result was positive. Taking the rear bolt out even with the suspension unloaded will pull the cross shaft away from the frame at least 1/4". This is very disconcerting, but I had a situation where the bolts were installed backwards (i.e., nuts on the top) and one side was missing the serrated washer.
The fronts are cake. I don't advocate doing the rears as I did. It was one of the FEW times where I cut a corner and the result was positive. Taking the rear bolt out even with the suspension unloaded will pull the cross shaft away from the frame at least 1/4". This is very disconcerting, but I had a situation where the bolts were installed backwards (i.e., nuts on the top) and one side was missing the serrated washer.
I remember blocking under the lower control shaft and putting a lot of force on it with a car jack and I even looked at some way to clamp it to the frame - without success. But, as you described when I started to loosen the bolt the shaft started to move away from the frame and I got nervous that if even if I got it out OK, I would have difficulty in getting the new bolt back in. And then there was the nagging concern the whole thing might explode out of there.
Last edited by DansYellow66; Jan 27, 2010 at 07:36 AM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Mar 1999
Posts: 5,401
Likes: 986
From: Itasca IL
Reversed bolt was the reason I was wanting to remove mine. However, I have no one else to blame for that other than myself. I didn't realize I had done so until after everything was assembled. And then to add insult to injury, even though I later replaced the front springs I again forgot to reverse them. I remember blocking under the lower control shaft and putting a lot of force on it with a car jack and I even looked at some way to clamp it to the frame - without success. But, as you described when I started to loosen the bolt the shaft started to move away from the frame and I got nervous that if even if I got it out OK, I would have difficulty in getting the new bolt back in. And then there was the nagging concern the whole thing might explode out of there.
I remember blocking under the lower control shaft and putting a lot of force on it with a car jack and I even looked at some way to clamp it to the frame - without success. But, as you described when I started to loosen the bolt the shaft started to move away from the frame and I got nervous that if even if I got it out OK, I would have difficulty in getting the new bolt back in. And then there was the nagging concern the whole thing might explode out of there.