C1 Softtop Install question
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,108
Likes: 4
From: Plano Texas
C1 Softtop Install question
I'm in the process of installing a new Al Knoch black sot top on my 62. I've installed a soft top on my 59, and it went pretty well for a first time. However, the rear bow and soft top attachment are different on a 62. On the 59, you simply pull the top flap around the bow tight, staple and then install the rear weatherstripping on the bow covering up the flap staples at the tack strip. On the 62, the weatherstrip is installed into a groove with a nylon cord that also holds the finished end of the soft top in another groove that is to the side (or perpendicular) to the weatherstrip groove. Is there a trick to installing the weatherstripping, cord and end flap of the soft top? Any suggestions would be helpful before I start the install. Thanks in advance.
Mark
Mark
Pro
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 667
Likes: 7
From: Milpitas Calyfornua
I'm in the process of installing a new Al Knoch black sot top on my 62. I've installed a soft top on my 59, and it went pretty well for a first time. However, the rear bow and soft top attachment are different on a 62. On the 59, you simply pull the top flap around the bow tight, staple and then install the rear weatherstripping on the bow covering up the flap staples at the tack strip. On the 62, the weatherstrip is installed into a groove with a nylon cord that also holds the finished end of the soft top in another groove that is to the side (or perpendicular) to the weatherstrip groove. Is there a trick to installing the weatherstripping, cord and end flap of the soft top? Any suggestions would be helpful before I start the install. Thanks in advance.
Mark
Mark
I purchased the video because the top on my 59 will not go up and fasten down correctly and I thought that this video would give me a clue what to so. It did not, as it appears that someone installed it without ever testing to see that it would affix properly front and rear, as the idea was that it would never be used anyhow. To fix correctly, I will need to install a new top which I will likely pay someone to do correctly.
I paid 80 dollars (actually received this past Xmas from my wife) for the video. Will sell for 65 to anyone interested.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 4,460
Likes: 1,293
From: minneola fl
Mark,
Its a BIT_H!!!! Here's the secret. If you look at the slot where the nylon cord goes, you'll notice that there is another shallow groove "INSIDE" the up and down groove that faces to the rear of the car. You first need to "set" the bead that's sewn into the top, and push it into the goove that faces the rear. It should stay in without any help, once you get it started. I use short pieces of vacuum tube to hold it if it tries to come out, by temporarily pushing them into the groove where the nylon cord goes. I use a "shorty" flat blade screwdriver to leverage the top bead (the one that is sewn into the top fabric), into the rearward facing groove. After you have that in place, you then stuff the cord WITH the rubber into the groove that is straight up and down. SOOOOOOO........There are TWO grooves. The top goes into one, and the cord with the rubber goes into the other. The C2 tops are the same way. It's the hardest part of putting the top together. When your pushing in the sewn in cord, on the top fabric, you'll actually feel a "pop" or a "thunk" when it seats. Good luck!!
Mike Coletta
I JUST READ THIS, AND IT MAKES NO SENSE TO ME. IF YOU WANT TO CALL ME, MY PHONE IS 352-241-4686 MIKE
Its a BIT_H!!!! Here's the secret. If you look at the slot where the nylon cord goes, you'll notice that there is another shallow groove "INSIDE" the up and down groove that faces to the rear of the car. You first need to "set" the bead that's sewn into the top, and push it into the goove that faces the rear. It should stay in without any help, once you get it started. I use short pieces of vacuum tube to hold it if it tries to come out, by temporarily pushing them into the groove where the nylon cord goes. I use a "shorty" flat blade screwdriver to leverage the top bead (the one that is sewn into the top fabric), into the rearward facing groove. After you have that in place, you then stuff the cord WITH the rubber into the groove that is straight up and down. SOOOOOOO........There are TWO grooves. The top goes into one, and the cord with the rubber goes into the other. The C2 tops are the same way. It's the hardest part of putting the top together. When your pushing in the sewn in cord, on the top fabric, you'll actually feel a "pop" or a "thunk" when it seats. Good luck!!
Mike Coletta
I JUST READ THIS, AND IT MAKES NO SENSE TO ME. IF YOU WANT TO CALL ME, MY PHONE IS 352-241-4686 MIKE
Last edited by mike coletta; Jan 29, 2010 at 03:30 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2004
Posts: 1,108
Likes: 4
From: Plano Texas
Mike, I figured it was a BI_CH. I looked at the Assembly Manual and there is a small cutaway section showing how it all fits. The 59 top was a piece-o-cake compared to this arrangement. I figure you start in the middle with the hump and work your way to both ends. The previous owner who had his top installed drilled holes in the bow and secured the top fabric with rivets at 4 to 6 inches on center. That's not an option for me. I may try some soapy water on the weatherstripping when I'm putting it into the channel. I figured the top cord/fabric had to be seated first just to get the weatherstripping in. I'm also going to try to use a screen door tool that is used to roll a rubber gasket in a channel to hold screen in a door/window opening. I'll figure it out, eventually. Thanks for your replies.
Mark
Mark
Intermediate
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 46
Likes: 0
From: 1959 in College Station Texas
I realize this probably does make sense, Al's video is well worth the money.
As I am done with my 59 top, my video is for sale as well.
Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,270
Likes: 561
From: Macedonia Ohio
On a 62 You should measure from the end of the rear latch bow to the center of the pivot bolt on each side. I simple lay the top over the car and mark it. Pull the side bead over the vertical edge of the top frame ( the back side of the side window). YOU DO NOT START IN THE MIDDLE. This will cause you problems because the top frames are not symmetrical. Start on one side by aligning your mark with the edge of the rear latch bow. Push the top bead in the undercut and install the w/s for about 7" up the bow. Then go the the other side and do the same thing. I use an old piece of w/s to hold one side in place. You will have to pull the top under the bow to short cut it to the other side. Then when it is attached on each side pull the material over the bow. You may have to pry it over the bow using a flat blade screw driver. then finish installing the top and w/s. This is the only way to get the top symmetrical. Feel free to PM me if you have questions. I have done many of the solid axel tops.
Larry
Larry
Racer
Joined: Sep 2002
Posts: 416
Likes: 1
From: Potomac Md
You need to use machine oil like 3in1 generously on the cord and weather stripping. Fashion an installation tool out of an old large screw driver by grinding tip down to about the diameter of cord and then concaving end to fit over cord so it doesnt slip off as easily.
As mentioned measure distances on side and start on one side.
Once you get to the other side a lot of tugging will be required.
Its actually not that hard and this "improved" design was to speed up assembly time of soft top.
As mentioned measure distances on side and start on one side.
Once you get to the other side a lot of tugging will be required.
Its actually not that hard and this "improved" design was to speed up assembly time of soft top.
Safety Car
Joined: Nov 2002
Posts: 4,460
Likes: 1,293
From: minneola fl
Mark,
Glad you figured it out. There are some good suggestions in this thread. The way that I install tops, is to lay the top over the frame on the car, and pull and glue the sideflaps. This "centers" the rag on the frame, which has been adjusted. I then do the "tuck" or "staple" along the back bow. It's harder to do this way, because you're doing it on the fly, but the top is centered regardless of variations in fabric, sewing, measurement, or top frame. My experience has been, that if you use the measurement method, and start at one end, that sometimes it comes out "right", and sometimes "not so right". Measurement tecnique and fabric stretch can vary by 1/2" or more from side to side, so you may end up with a wrinkle, or a not so good fit on one side. I use wd40 to lube the rubber/cord. It evaporates, and is fairly easy to clean up. If you use a can with the little plastic nozzle, you can be fairly direct with the application.
This is not the "right" way, but just the way that I do it. I just thought I'd pass this on as "another" idea. Good luck with the install!!!
Mike Coletta
BTW, DON'T USE A SCREEN ROLLER!!!! IF THAT SUCKER SLIPS, YOU MAY CUT THE TOP
Glad you figured it out. There are some good suggestions in this thread. The way that I install tops, is to lay the top over the frame on the car, and pull and glue the sideflaps. This "centers" the rag on the frame, which has been adjusted. I then do the "tuck" or "staple" along the back bow. It's harder to do this way, because you're doing it on the fly, but the top is centered regardless of variations in fabric, sewing, measurement, or top frame. My experience has been, that if you use the measurement method, and start at one end, that sometimes it comes out "right", and sometimes "not so right". Measurement tecnique and fabric stretch can vary by 1/2" or more from side to side, so you may end up with a wrinkle, or a not so good fit on one side. I use wd40 to lube the rubber/cord. It evaporates, and is fairly easy to clean up. If you use a can with the little plastic nozzle, you can be fairly direct with the application.
This is not the "right" way, but just the way that I do it. I just thought I'd pass this on as "another" idea. Good luck with the install!!!
Mike Coletta
BTW, DON'T USE A SCREEN ROLLER!!!! IF THAT SUCKER SLIPS, YOU MAY CUT THE TOP
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Safety Car
Joined: Jan 2004
Posts: 4,270
Likes: 561
From: Macedonia Ohio
Mikes Idea of gluing the side flaps first is one that I had not thought of. It will work well for centering the top. However, I like to have the top on the bench. That is just my personal preference. It is easier to tuck the material in the grove that way. I use a modified flat blade screw driver to push the cord and w/s into the groove. I filed a radius across the end to fit the plastic. WD-40 works sell for a lubricant. By the way, I gave some wrong information on the top measurement. You measure from the center of the slotted pivot screw to the vertical edge of the window frame. Not to the edge of the latch bow. Sorry for the error.
