anyone else besides me having problems with header exhaust leaks??

seems like i cant stop the header exhaust leaks for more than a couple of month and they start leaking again?? sometime i think headers are more problems than they are worth?? i have hedman elite headers and when they work they are great but sure have a lot of problems keeping them sealed up?? i have even used the expensive copper gaskets??
runs me about $40 for the copper gaskets? only lasts a few months?

whats a poor boy to do???? any opinions or suggestions to permantly
seal these headers up?? thanks

 

Hello
I have cheap crappy *** headers on my Corvette I bought it that way and had leaks all the time. So, I bought two set of gaskets and double up and it has seemed to stop the leaks (headers probably warped). I bought some ram horn exhaust manifolds just havent had anytime to change the exhaust system over.

 

I ran the car through 2 or 3 heat cycles. Retorqued as needed after each cool down. Then safety wired the bolts. No exhaust leaks.

 

I've been told that the header bolts loosen up in use, and to check them occassionally for tightness. I bought the type of bolt that has an Allen head because it was always tough to get a socket or even a wrench to be able to tighten those tight enough. Never had a leak problem, but they ALWAYS seemed to tighten some more whenever I would do so. I wonder if vibration or gasket thickness has something to do with it.

 

They need to be retorqued especially after the gasket is first installed. Check often at first and after a while it will be better. It is still a good idea to after they seem to be OK to check on occasion. They also make special bolts that are supposed to stay tight but I have never used them. If you still have problems then you probably need them surfaced.

 

OK, time for "Header Bolts 101" .

Regular 3/8"-16 bolts for stock iron exhaust manifolds (usually 1-1/2" to 2-1/2" long) are torqued to 20-25 ft-lbs., and stretch slightly at that torque to establish and maintain clamping force in the joint, and don't loosen due to the maintenance of continuous clamping force created by the bolt stretch.

3/8"-16 header bolts, on the other hand, are usually only 3/4" or 7/8" long, and due to that, don't stretch at all at 20-30 ft-lbs. of torque. They'll seal the joint when freshly torqued, but loosen with repeated thermal cycling as they rapidly lose clamping force, and can actually back all the way out and disappear; gaskets in the joint just make it worse. Header bolts will ALWAYS work loose.

The only way to avoid it is to use bolts that are mechanically retained in position, to make up for the fact that they don't stretch. This means either using Stage 8 header bolts with the retainer clips you install after torquing that prevent them from rotating, or safety wire. On my Grand Sport, I used ARP NASCAR pre-drilled small-hex header bolts, and safety-wired them with .032" stainless wire; ZERO leaks in two years of pounding on it. Always use anti-seize with stainless bolts.

The alternative is to tighten them all every week and learn to enjoy replacing header gaskets.

 

cut your flanges with a hacksaw...it will make a world of difference.

 

RemFlex gaskets.

First gaskets I have had that don't leak.

Just be careful installing them as they are soft,and you can damage them trying to force them into a tight spot.

Doug

 

Bill

 

Hedman Elites on my '62 (Dart Heads). Used ARP bolts and felpro gasket. Cranked the crap out of the bolts, not one leak in over 3 years.

 

I have a 383 stroker with aluminum Dart Platinum PRO 1 heads. I am using the stock but ported 2 1/2" ramshorns. I have torqued and re-torqued the bolts 3 or 4 times. Not sure they will ever keep from moving, stretching, or whatever but it's just real easy to check them every so often.

 

I have the copper fel pro header gaskets on my motor with aluminum heads. The original paper gaskets were KRAP and leaked almost immediately. When I installed the copper gaskets I also ran a bead of the Permatex Ultra Copper gasket maker on each side of the gasket around the ports prior to installation. No leaks yet.

Rich

 

I used those same gaskets and gasket sealer on my 32 Ford 3 window with a 350 chebby and headers. You are right, never leaked but I also used the locking 3/4 washers/bolts that would not back out.

 

When my block was in the machine shop being bored, etc. before re-build, they re-surfaced where the exhaust manifolds (Ramshorns) and the heads exhaust ports mate and eliminated the need of a gasket. That has been appprox. 8K mi. and 2.5 years w/out any leaks. Just a thought if someone is pulling an engine that has exhaust leaks for repair.

 

I have always used headers. Not much problems with leaks. I use the cheap old style White acrylic bound paper. I use an old racers trick of soaking them in water 24 hours before installation.( Re torque them about 5-6 times after each heat cycle until they no longer tighten. Probably not necessary, but I finally lock them down with Breslin split locs.( I believe someone has bought the rights to them and they sell under another name). The front two bolts on each side that hold the generator/alt and expansion tank use longer bolts and are standard bolts do not loosen after this procedure.

 

we have been using the stock exhaust gaskets tha you get in the standard head set gasket set for years now[the little single flange type] and have had very good success ,the header gaskets don;t seem to hold up lately

 

Check the flatness of the header flanges. Run a straight edge along the length of the flanges and see if each individual flange is flat, and that all the flanges line up. If the header flanges are not sitting flat against the heads then it will be very difficult for them seal regardless of the gaskets or bolts you use.

 

.....that's the way i did header installs at the dismay of the car owner......some say BUBBA, but it sure works making each pipe or pair separate from the common flange......jmo.....

 

i used the copper gaskets on my hooker headers and they worked better than the ones from hooker. i had to retorque them several times after the engine went through the heat, cool cycle. good luck, tjs

 

The copper or dead soft aluminum gaskets are overpriced garbage. Never had anything but problems with them. I always used plain paper Fel-Pro's with a light coating of orange high temp RTV. Combined with cranking the snot outta the bolts, they've never leaked at the head. I'm also a fan of cutting the flange. Don't be scared to double up on the collector gasket with some RTV either. I've had cars run for years without leaks like this. The headers I have on the 67 now, don't use gaskets at all