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pulling the engine

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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 11:14 PM
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Default pulling the engine

everything but the motor mounts is disconnected but now I'm wondering ...... do I need to remove the radiator ?
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 11:21 PM
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I would pull the fan shroud and the radiator to be on the safe side, these things NEVER go quite as planned. You did'nt say if you were pulling the trans. along with the engine, could make a big difference. Good luck!!
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Old Feb 3, 2010 | 11:32 PM
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SBC or BBC? If SBC, you can get it out without pulling the engine but it give you extra room. The BBC you need the extra room. You need to pull the shroud and on some, it is easier to pull shroud and radiator together. You could easily slip and get a water pump into it, so make it safer and easier on yourself.

BTW, a good trick on pulling the radiator is to slide a piece of cardboard between it and the engine, and then slide the radiator up the cardboard. This keeps the radiator from banging into something and it lets you slide the the weight rather than lift the weight at arms length.
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 07:37 AM
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I did on mine. I would rather be safe than sorry and it didn't take a huge amount of time to get it out.
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 08:26 AM
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Default Take the time and remove it

Originally Posted by jkuzzy
I did on mine. I would rather be safe than sorry and it didn't take a huge amount of time to get it out.
It will make your job so much easier. I tend to leave the bell housing and tranny in place. engine comes right out. you can then work on bellhousing and tranny without problems. I put tranny and bell housing in first.

I have taken the engine out and in 3 times this summer alone, and it is the best way I have found.

Jack
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 08:40 AM
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Originally Posted by jkuzzy
I did on mine. I would rather be safe than sorry and it didn't take a huge amount of time to get it out.

I removed mine. Small amount of effort, easier to remove the engine and you won't be buying a new radiator as part of your project
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 05:11 PM
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Default engine pull

Guesss I should have said what engine it is . 327/300 .
I was debating whether to pull the tranny along with it . I dont really want to take the console and shifter linkage apart (might not get them together right again !) . But I also didnt replace the heater core when I pulled the dash and had to do it all again when I sprung a leak .ARRRG
I'm sure I'll pull the radiator now .
I'm also going to replace the exhaust . I had headers on the other engine and going back to stock on this one . Any hints for that job ?
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 05:42 PM
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Use a load leveler for the engine pull, I pulled mine (engine) this winter and am lucky I decided to use one (trans. came out with it), not sure how I was going to get the tilt w/o the leveler.

I pulled my radiator and housing out and it made for an easy job too...

DS
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 05:44 PM
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Default Don't do it unless

Originally Posted by 1Redctoo
Guesss I should have said what engine it is . 327/300 .
I was debating whether to pull the tranny along with it . I dont really want to take the console and shifter linkage apart (might not get them together right again !) . But I also didnt replace the heater core when I pulled the dash and had to do it all again when I sprung a leak .ARRRG
I'm sure I'll pull the radiator now .
I'm also going to replace the exhaust . I had headers on the other engine and going back to stock on this one . Any hints for that job ?
I would pull just the engine. Just unbolt the bell housing , support it and tranny from below with jack. It will come right out with lift. See photos of area. You can work on tranny or bell-housing .

Just use guide pins in bottom holes of block , I used studs for guides when installing engine

Just make sure on exhaust that you get the right configuration for alternator bracket or a/c . for your car.

Jack Ps if you look at my other post photos, you can see the guide pin on bottom of block
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Last edited by Jackfit; Feb 4, 2010 at 05:56 PM. Reason: Photo
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 07:21 PM
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jack, thanks for providing the pics, helps me visualize it alot better . looks like you removed your motor mounts completely ?
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 07:39 PM
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Default Yes they go with motor

Originally Posted by 1Redctoo
jack, thanks for providing the pics, helps me visualize it alot better . looks like you removed your motor mounts completely ?

Just undo motor mounts to frame. Take engine out and put in with front mounts on motor. It is a good time also to put on oil pan spark plugs clips and block mount spark wire clips front pistons. Real pain to put on later. Put oil canister on also.

Jack
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Old Feb 4, 2010 | 08:14 PM
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Originally Posted by 1Redctoo
Guesss I should have said what engine it is . 327/300 .
I was debating whether to pull the tranny along with it . I dont really want to take the console and shifter linkage apart (might not get them together right again !) . But I also didnt replace the heater core when I pulled the dash and had to do it all again when I sprung a leak .ARRRG
I'm sure I'll pull the radiator now .
I'm also going to replace the exhaust . I had headers on the other engine and going back to stock on this one . Any hints for that job ?
I left the tranny in. A little rocking and it came right out. Putting things back together wasn't bad either. I did jack up the tranny to help align things, but it was remarkably easy. The hardest part was watching it go over the fender....
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Old Feb 5, 2010 | 10:37 PM
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I've had the motor out of the red thing FIVE times (big block) in the last 10 years and have not removed the radiator or fan shroud for any R/R. It is neccessary to remove the exhaust manifolds and turn the motor a bit to clear the frame, but you definitely can leave the radiator and shroud in.
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 10:10 PM
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Well I pulled the radiator and shroud and the engine yesterday . All come out fine but having the engine swinging over the fenders is sort of hairy . Anyway , now its time to start cleaning the compartment and I need to know what the paint color is . And is it different for the firewall . my inside fenders seem to be a bit shinier than the firewall.
Guess I'll replace any firewall grommets while I'm at it too .
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Old Feb 7, 2010 | 10:31 PM
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Default It all depends

Originally Posted by 1Redctoo
Well I pulled the radiator and shroud and the engine yesterday . All come out fine but having the engine swinging over the fenders is sort of hairy . Anyway , now its time to start cleaning the compartment and I need to know what the paint color is . And is it different for the firewall . my inside fenders seem to be a bit shinier than the firewall.
Guess I'll replace any firewall grommets while I'm at it too .
Good idea to replace the grommets , Clean all the areas , use brake cleaner to get some of the oil and dirt off the area around the windshield washer motor etc. If you are not going for NCRS judging, just paint it semi gloss black. Otherwise the shroud and other areas are kept fiberglass bare gray. Looks terrible, so paint it , if you use a semi gloss it will help to clean it when dirt builds up. I was able to power wash it before taking out the engine. Good time to get all the areas that will not be acessable later when engine is put back in.

Good time to make sure speedometer cable is clear of exhaust pipes and you can wrap it with some heat shielding.

Jack
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 11:41 AM
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Originally Posted by 1Redctoo
I need to know what the paint color is . And is it different for the firewall . my inside fenders seem to be a bit shinier than the firewall.
The firewall, inner fenders, and underside of the hood were blacked-out at the same time with flattened black lacquer (semi-flat, "eggshell" sheen).
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 03:03 PM
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ok ....semi-flat black,hmmmmm where am I gonna find that . Didnt Krylon make that at one time ?
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Old Feb 8, 2010 | 03:09 PM
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Default Semi Gloss black

Originally Posted by 1Redctoo
ok ....semi-flat black,hmmmmm where am I gonna find that . Didnt Krylon make that at one time ?
Semi gloss black is very similar to egg shell sheen. You hear "egg shell" mostly for house paint colors now. You can find it at any of the corvette vendors , Zip, Corvette Central etc.

Jack
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 12:32 AM
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Default engine pull

great thread great info - I am working up the courage to swap out the passenger 283 dropped in ?? with a correct cast 67 L79 soon.

Jack - any particular reason you didn't lift from the intake manifold lift plate in your pictures? I bought the lift plate and load leveler based on past experiences
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Old Feb 9, 2010 | 07:04 AM
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Default You don't need it with a leveler

Originally Posted by dn69427
great thread great info - I am working up the courage to swap out the passenger 283 dropped in ?? with a correct cast 67 L79 soon.

Jack - any particular reason you didn't lift from the intake manifold lift plate in your pictures? I bought the lift plate and load leveler based on past experiences
The engine rebuilder used the lift plate to bring the engine to my house in his truck. I just left it on to protect the opening of the intake. You can't control the angle if you use the lift plate.

Jack
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