clutch fork spring rivet
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,245
Likes: 114
From: Watkins Glen NY
clutch fork spring rivet
I just finished up putting a new spring in my clutch fork, and was unable to get the rivet very tight against the fork. The spring will wiggle a bit by hand. The spring will not come off, the backside of the rivet is peened over pretty well.
I did this by hand, with a hammer and a couple of punches. Can't get the end to mushroom any more.
Will this be OK? I am tempted to grind the new rivet off and put a pop rivet in its' place.
This is the spring:
I did this by hand, with a hammer and a couple of punches. Can't get the end to mushroom any more.
Will this be OK? I am tempted to grind the new rivet off and put a pop rivet in its' place.
This is the spring:
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 58,061
Likes: 7,144
Army
That thing gets exercised 4 times every time you leave a stop light...hundreds of times a week probably if you have a driver....rocking back and forth on the ball stud.... If it goes South on you its a transmission R&R.
I'm not sure of the best attachment method but I wouldn't be happy unless it was rock solid.
Personally I bought a new clutch fork and the spring was already installed.
I'm not sure of the best attachment method but I wouldn't be happy unless it was rock solid.
Personally I bought a new clutch fork and the spring was already installed.
Safety Car
Joined: Feb 2003
Posts: 4,068
Likes: 26
From: St. Joseph Mo
Been a good spell since I had one in front of me but: Check and see if you could use a hex socket button head cap screw (grade 8), nut and lock washer in place of the rivit. Locktite on the threads.
Or: Heat the end of the rivit red hot before you start beating on it. (I know, it would take six hands to manage that.)
Or: Heat the end of the rivit red hot before you start beating on it. (I know, it would take six hands to manage that.)
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,245
Likes: 114
From: Watkins Glen NY
Been a good spell since I had one in front of me but: Check and see if you could use a hex socket button head cap screw (grade 8), nut and lock washer in place of the rivit. Locktite on the threads.
Or: Heat the end of the rivit red hot before you start beating on it. (I know, it would take six hands to manage that.)
Or: Heat the end of the rivit red hot before you start beating on it. (I know, it would take six hands to manage that.)
Tried the heat. Couldn't keep it cherry hot by itself and then move it to the fork and line everything up in time, and got too nevous about applying that much heat to the rivet while it was in the fork with the spring right there too.I suppose if I use a GR 8 screw, I could tighten it up and then touch the threads past the nut with a weld, then grind it down as well.
Thread Starter
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2006
Posts: 8,245
Likes: 114
From: Watkins Glen NY
Thanks guys, I never even thought of something so obvious.
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8th Gear
Joined: Aug 2016
Posts: 8
Likes: 3
From: Winston Salem, NC
Do not use a pop rivet. I would use a 10-32 x 3/8 SST. button head screw with a grip nut (not a nylon inset nut, but a grip nut with the threads that are crimped on the outside threads. I would also use red loc-tite on the threads.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2015
Posts: 7,386
Likes: 2,569
From: Really Central IL Illinois
You might be able to save the rivet. Put a socket around the tail of the rivet and smack the head with a hammer to see if it will tighten up. If it tightens up on the spring, then buck the tail of the rivet and smack the head. If it won't tighten up, you can drill it out and try again with a new rivet.
When setting a rivet, you always hit the head with a hammer and buck the tail. The force on the head from the hammer will keep the rivet head to the spring joint tight. Your 'buck' is a steel bar or such that you hold in your hand so there is some movement. You can't buck against a solid surface. If you have an air'-hammer, they make a bit to fit the rounded head on the rivet and it makes it easier.
I was a Supervisor at a dry freight semi-van manufacturer. Drilled out thousands just for the 'smiles'.
Ron
When setting a rivet, you always hit the head with a hammer and buck the tail. The force on the head from the hammer will keep the rivet head to the spring joint tight. Your 'buck' is a steel bar or such that you hold in your hand so there is some movement. You can't buck against a solid surface. If you have an air'-hammer, they make a bit to fit the rounded head on the rivet and it makes it easier.
I was a Supervisor at a dry freight semi-van manufacturer. Drilled out thousands just for the 'smiles'.
Ron
