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C1 big block?

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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 10:16 AM
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Default C1 big block?

Can a big block (572) fit in to a 1961 without cutting anything? Are there any limitations to the bellhousing clearance for the transmission? If anyone has experience with this I would appreciate the advice. Also if anyone has a positraction yoke for sale, I have two that are not so I need one.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 10:19 AM
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Originally Posted by geworthomd
Can a big block (572) fit in to a 1961 without cutting anything? Are there any limitations to the bellhousing clearance for the transmission? If anyone has experience with this I would appreciate the advice. Also if anyone has a positraction yoke for sale, I have two that are not so I need one.
I have seen a 572 in a mid-year car using a BB hood that was done by AntiVenom here in Florida. Seemed to fit perfectly.

I don't see how it would go in a C1 without major mods including a tear-drop or other scoop on the hood among other changes... I think the bellhousing clearance is less of an issue than the transmission/driveshaft clearance in general...the '61 tranny tunnel is TIGHT...I just put a Tremec in and its a really close fit.

Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Feb 25, 2010 at 10:22 AM.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 10:35 AM
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I have a 572 in a '59 with a (huge) 4L80E transmission. I was surprised by the amount of space between the transmission and the body, probably 3"-4" at the closest point, but I do have an aftermarket frame, C4 suspension and lots of other non stock stuff and I did lower the engine some. As Frankie said, you will need a hood bulge/scoop to make it fit, assuming you are using the stock high rise intake manifold and carb.

Are you planning on using the stock frame?
What about motor mounts and steering shaft?

Charles
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 11:33 AM
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Period-correct swap is a 409. The Impala/Bel Air/ Biscayne resto/racers support suppliers of new performance parts for this engine.

Lots more whistles than a late-model big-block when you raise the hood!
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 11:49 AM
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Default 396 oops 427

I think if was back in 65 if I remember correctly. My buddy had a 57 Vett and had ordered a 396 which he had possession of but before he installed it they released a 427. He immediately returned the 396 and ordered the 427. It stalled his project but he finally installed the motor. He had to modify his hood for clearance. His only other mod was two small fans that sat in front of the radiator for additional cooling. His name was Ken and he lived in Los Altos Calif. That was one incredibly fast car. Greg
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 12:19 PM
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My '61 had a 427 in it back in the day. As far as I can see there were no mod's to fit it in.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 12:22 PM
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I put an L-88 in my red car (when it was blue). It was installed with the scatter shield, transmission, steering, brakes and crank center line all in the stock locations. The frame was totally unaltered. I made front mounts to mimic the original front mount, except that it did not involve the water pump. The mounts used the stock rubbers and the fabricated mounts bolted to the "55 chevy" holes in the block and holes in the front of the heads. The only tight clearance is #1 exhaust to the steering colume. If I was to do it again, I would offset the engine to the right. Of course, it will need a hood scoop.

I sold all the stuff to put a BBC in the early vette to Jim Dillon several years ago when I decided to put a blown 532" motor in the car. This time I used stock main rails. But the engine is moved back 3" and lowered 3". Lots of modifications.

The first picture was taken as I was dismantling the car to build the as it is today.

If you are thinking of using the stock rear end with anything with some decent HP or torque, Don"t.

Stock frame


Modified frame
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 02:33 PM
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This is a 57 owned by Rick Osborne of Coastal Corvettes, and it's got a 427/435 setup in it.



He tore the car up years ago last time he drove it, but said it was a blast doing it.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 03:44 PM
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I owned a '57 with a 427 and the only mod that I could see (I purchased it after the installation) was that the trans crossmember had a small modification to accept the Muncie. If memory serves, the Muncie tail mount was a couple of inches shorter than the Warner or it might have been how the BB was mounted (non water pump) in the chassis. I never had any problems with overheating.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 04:11 PM
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Here's a Hot Rod article from the good old days:



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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 05:21 PM
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Originally Posted by cbernhardt
I have a 572 in a '59 with a (huge) 4L80E transmission. I was surprised by the amount of space between the transmission and the body, probably 3"-4" at the closest point, but I do have an aftermarket frame, C4 suspension and lots of other non stock stuff and I did lower the engine some. As Frankie said, you will need a hood bulge/scoop to make it fit, assuming you are using the stock high rise intake manifold and carb.

Are you planning on using the stock frame?
What about motor mounts and steering shaft?

Charles
Stock frame yes, hadn't got that far as to think about the steering shaft. I guess I might have to fabricate one from some parts available from somewhere. I guess I will pick up some BB motor mounts and try and rework them. Any more thoughts would be appreciated.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 05:27 PM
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Default BBin C1

Originally Posted by geworthomd
Stock frame yes, hadn't got that far as to think about the steering shaft. I guess I might have to fabricate one from some parts available from somewhere. I guess I will pick up some BB motor mounts and try and rework them. Any more thoughts would be appreciated.
Thank you for the excellent input guys.
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 08:57 PM
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Geworthomd, big blocks in 56-62 is not as uncommon as some may think. In the sixties there was one on my street and one on the next street over. My red 62 project is kind of a tribute to an old Vette we ran with a big block. We made our own mount but there were several mounting systems and you can occasionally find them on ebay etc.

The pictures below (red horseshoe) show a Hurst mount that I saw on ebay. I have one similar to this that is original to my 61 drag car that was originally built in the late sixties with a big block with a tube chassis. It has been altered a bit to fit right on the tube chassis but if you want I can make a pattern and send it to you and you can use that as a starting point for fabricating your own.

The other pics are for my red 62 and were from Vetrod when he sold me the mounts he fabricated. They are very well made and would be easy to fabricate. The stainless pieces bolt right up to the block and the painted pieces bolt in the stock location on the frame. These pieces are very similar to the Bill Thomas mounts in the article, only I believe better than the Thomas pieces. I have seen at least two different mounts designed by Thomas and you may find some of those around on ebay. I am sure they would work well if you find a set. If you want I can make patterns of the mounts I have (as they are at present off the car) which I feel is the best way to go. Vetrod did all of the work, copying them is easy.

As to the fit, the tunnel should be OK, depending on the trans you may have to play with the rear mount. The steering shaft is tight but everything fits pretty well except for exhaust/headers. You can see in Vetrod's pic that the headers are kind of a fenderwell design that end near the body mounts (I moved my battery location to the trunk as the right side goes right thru that location). In the pic below you can see the #1 tube is a press fit that you install separately to go around the steering. These headers are the nicest you will find (thin wall actual dimension of 2.125). I believe these are Tubular Automotive (Vetrod will know for sure) but I have talked to them at Tubular (781-878-9875 in Rockland Ma.) and they emailed me some pics just before I bought this set and they looked very similar if not identical. These headers are not that bad in price (compared to other custom made headers) but you will be happy with them-the guy that coated mine told me they were the nicest headers he has seen.

If I can help let me know-Jim




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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 09:18 PM
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Welcome to the forum. If you decide to do the swap in that 61 you inherited from your dad, try to keep the original engine and other original pieces if you can. The next owner may want them.

Jeff
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Old Feb 25, 2010 | 11:24 PM
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Originally Posted by Jim Dillon
Geworthomd, big blocks in 56-62 is not as uncommon as some may think. In the sixties there was one on my street and one on the next street over. My red 62 project is kind of a tribute to an old Vette we ran with a big block. We made our own mount but there were several mounting systems and you can occasionally find them on ebay etc.

The pictures below (red horseshoe) show a Hurst mount that I saw on ebay. I have one similar to this that is original to my 61 drag car that was originally built in the late sixties with a big block with a tube chassis. It has been altered a bit to fit right on the tube chassis but if you want I can make a pattern and send it to you and you can use that as a starting point for fabricating your own.

The other pics are for my red 62 and were from Vetrod when he sold me the mounts he fabricated. They are very well made and would be easy to fabricate. The stainless pieces bolt right up to the block and the painted pieces bolt in the stock location on the frame. These pieces are very similar to the Bill Thomas mounts in the article, only I believe better than the Thomas pieces. I have seen at least two different mounts designed by Thomas and you may find some of those around on ebay. I am sure they would work well if you find a set. If you want I can make patterns of the mounts I have (as they are at present off the car) which I feel is the best way to go. Vetrod did all of the work, copying them is easy.

As to the fit, the tunnel should be OK, depending on the trans you may have to play with the rear mount. The steering shaft is tight but everything fits pretty well except for exhaust/headers. You can see in Vetrod's pic that the headers are kind of a fenderwell design that end near the body mounts (I moved my battery location to the trunk as the right side goes right thru that location). In the pic below you can see the #1 tube is a press fit that you install separately to go around the steering. These headers are the nicest you will find (thin wall actual dimension of 2.125). I believe these are Tubular Automotive (Vetrod will know for sure) but I have talked to them at Tubular (781-878-9875 in Rockland Ma.) and they emailed me some pics just before I bought this set and they looked very similar if not identical. These headers are not that bad in price (compared to other custom made headers) but you will be happy with them-the guy that coated mine told me they were the nicest headers he has seen.

If I can help let me know-Jim




Hey Jim, thanks for the high marks. The plan was to polish the stainless pieces. I should have the original temp plates for the mounts. On the headers, the #1 tube hit the steering box. So I made a jig that resembled the steering box and #1 exhaust port. Sent it to Tubular and they made up a new #1 pipe. No charge. How about that!!

They also made the custom headers for the blown 532" motor. Dropped the car off at 9:00 am and they had it done by 4:00 pm. Amazing to watch. They eyeballed it, cut many pipes with turns, no misses, tacked them all together, and then took each cylinder pipe and made a one piece mandrill pipe copy of it. No computers, just eyeball. This was 1995. I wonder if they are still around. They heated the building with cord wood. So much for the "green life", and only a few miles out of Boston. I think the price was about $700.

This the third time trying to post this. The power has gone out twice before and GD UPS quit yesterday.
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 05:21 AM
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Originally Posted by sub006
Period-correct swap is a 409. The Impala/Bel Air/ Biscayne resto/racers support suppliers of new performance parts for this engine.

Lots more whistles than a late-model big-block when you raise the hood!
a 409 might be 'period' correct, but IMHO it would be a waste of $$$ when there are far better 'modern' engines available.
Bill
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 08:20 AM
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There are no-brainer ZZ4 motors that are nearly plug-n-play in these cars and make life simple and have enough HP to nail you in the seat. I wouldn't get all twisted around trying to engineer something that is not a straightforward fit and may evolve into a major engineering/fabrication effort. That's just me though and an admission of my personal technical limitations...
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Old Feb 26, 2010 | 08:28 AM
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I went through the Big Block versus small block decision when I wanted more horsepower in my 61. I opted for the 383 stroker small block. To me it's the best of both worlds. Big block like torque without the weight gain and other headaches. I love big blocks but still feel I made the right decision. Good luck with your project, whatever you decide
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 05:27 PM
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i've seen 348/409's in c1 vettes in teh old days,,,,

when they put teh "rat" motors in original frames, are the frames completely welded,, or just skip welded like original? i thought about completely welding my frame, but don't think its necessary for a 283.........
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Old Jul 4, 2012 | 08:34 PM
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Check this car out with a 427. http://www.coffeescorvettes.com/vehd...tock=197_D2W40
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