Engine Pull C-1
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Engine Pull C-1
I am about to pull the 350 in my early 61 and put in the 283.
Three questions:
-Does the radiator need to be removed?
-Can I leave the 4 spd. on with the Hurst shifter, handle removed?
-Any easy way to remove and install the heavy override spring on the clutch shaft?
Thanks.
Three questions:
-Does the radiator need to be removed?
-Can I leave the 4 spd. on with the Hurst shifter, handle removed?
-Any easy way to remove and install the heavy override spring on the clutch shaft?
Thanks.
Instructor
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Fairfield IL
Re: Engine Pull C-1 (plaidside)
Plaidside,
About a year ago, I took my engine out of the '62. Yes remove the radiator and leave transmission hooked up to bellhousing. To do the job right, you will need a engine tilter attached to your hoist, cherry picker, etc. You can get one from Summit $30 to $60. It is invaluable. You will need to undo your shifter from tranny. It is very tight, but doable. You may need to drop tranny support and lower tranny a bit to do this. Remove distributor cap and any shrouding. Undo the two bolts on block that retains the swivel ball on clutch linkage. After attaching and taking weight off the frame, you need to remove the two front engine mounts for clearance. Using your tilter you will be able to lower tranny down and front of engine up. Have some help there to guide and keep an eye out for any obstruction. With the tilter your engine will come right out at a very steep angle but very easily. As far as installing clutch spring when going back in...A big screwdriver and strong hands worked best for me. It took me a couple of tries, but eventually I got it right. My worst problem was due to a year between R & R. Just take your time and you will be okay.
Richard
About a year ago, I took my engine out of the '62. Yes remove the radiator and leave transmission hooked up to bellhousing. To do the job right, you will need a engine tilter attached to your hoist, cherry picker, etc. You can get one from Summit $30 to $60. It is invaluable. You will need to undo your shifter from tranny. It is very tight, but doable. You may need to drop tranny support and lower tranny a bit to do this. Remove distributor cap and any shrouding. Undo the two bolts on block that retains the swivel ball on clutch linkage. After attaching and taking weight off the frame, you need to remove the two front engine mounts for clearance. Using your tilter you will be able to lower tranny down and front of engine up. Have some help there to guide and keep an eye out for any obstruction. With the tilter your engine will come right out at a very steep angle but very easily. As far as installing clutch spring when going back in...A big screwdriver and strong hands worked best for me. It took me a couple of tries, but eventually I got it right. My worst problem was due to a year between R & R. Just take your time and you will be okay.
Richard
Burning Brakes
Joined: Nov 2001
Posts: 1,176
Likes: 311
From: St. Petersburg FL
Re: Engine Pull C-1 (plaidside)
Plaidside:
I don't know how long your Hurst handle is, but I managed to pull my engine and tranny as a unit with the shifter still installed. The car was on jackstands, set, I think, on the second notch. If you have access to a shop manual, I think it tells you how high the car needs to be jacked. The shop manual also has a procedure for removing and reinstalling the clutch linkage and spring, which might save some of the manual effort. (Unfortunately, I don't seem to have my manual handy here in England, or I'd try to quote this stuff more accurately...). In addition to 76Rich's list of things to remove (good call on taking the lower motor mounts off the frame!), I'd also add the starter, and if at all possible, the exhaust manifolds.
I don't know how long your Hurst handle is, but I managed to pull my engine and tranny as a unit with the shifter still installed. The car was on jackstands, set, I think, on the second notch. If you have access to a shop manual, I think it tells you how high the car needs to be jacked. The shop manual also has a procedure for removing and reinstalling the clutch linkage and spring, which might save some of the manual effort. (Unfortunately, I don't seem to have my manual handy here in England, or I'd try to quote this stuff more accurately...). In addition to 76Rich's list of things to remove (good call on taking the lower motor mounts off the frame!), I'd also add the starter, and if at all possible, the exhaust manifolds.
Advanced
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 66
Likes: 6
From: South Carolina
Re: Engine Pull C-1 (plaidside)
The quick way to remove the clutch spring, is to remove the pedal stop under the dashboard. That releases the pressure on the spring, and it will come off real easily.
Bill
Bill
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Re: Engine Pull C-1 (Bill T)
Thanks everyone for the suggestions.
I got a tilter, removed the shifter and radiator, and it is now out of the car.
76Rich, you were right, without the tilter it would have been near impossible.
Now all I have to do is finish assembling the 283, clean and paint all the parts, and install.
I got a tilter, removed the shifter and radiator, and it is now out of the car.
76Rich, you were right, without the tilter it would have been near impossible.
Now all I have to do is finish assembling the 283, clean and paint all the parts, and install.
Instructor
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 140
Likes: 0
From: Fairfield IL
Re: Engine Pull C-1 (plaidside)
Congrats Plaidside,
You are quick. Just a couple of hints. Leave the motor mounts (frame mounts), fuel pump, distributor cap, and any shrouding off the engine when putting back in. I installed the fuel pump and motor mounts and had to remove them in the middle of reinstalling. Have plenty of hands in there helping you. Some to keep you lined up and some to fit exhaust pipes as it goes in. I just left tranny support unbolted and in place until I was ready to install shifter. Then blocked up engine and removed tranny support then lowered tranny a bit to install shifter. The main idea is to not get in a hurry. You sure don't want to scratch that pretty new paint. I had my engine out for a year. After I went through engine, I powder coated everything I could fit in a home oven. I was smart enough to take about 150 pictures with digital camera. When I would get to some area, I would go into the house and print out everything I had on it. This being over fifty clouds your brain.
Good luck,
Richard
You are quick. Just a couple of hints. Leave the motor mounts (frame mounts), fuel pump, distributor cap, and any shrouding off the engine when putting back in. I installed the fuel pump and motor mounts and had to remove them in the middle of reinstalling. Have plenty of hands in there helping you. Some to keep you lined up and some to fit exhaust pipes as it goes in. I just left tranny support unbolted and in place until I was ready to install shifter. Then blocked up engine and removed tranny support then lowered tranny a bit to install shifter. The main idea is to not get in a hurry. You sure don't want to scratch that pretty new paint. I had my engine out for a year. After I went through engine, I powder coated everything I could fit in a home oven. I was smart enough to take about 150 pictures with digital camera. When I would get to some area, I would go into the house and print out everything I had on it. This being over fifty clouds your brain.
Good luck,
Richard
