6T5RUSH

Hi All,

I've done a search and found quite a bit of info on adjusting doors, windows and vent windows.

I hate tackling this but I've got to remove the driver's door to do 2 out of 3 things:

1. Fix 3 loose rivets on the front outer jam of the driver's door (ordered the McMaster-Carr #93865A230...Projection Weld Studs [THANK YOU JOHNZ!]). (See 2nd pic below)

2. Replace the lower hinge pin and bushings.

Doing this should cure the door's tendency to "climb" onto the striker.

3. Adjust the driver's vent window so that I can bring the top part in by a 1/8".

Here's a pic of my driver's vent window currently installed. I believe the bolt I need to turn for this adjustment is the lower front window channel nut, right? I need to loosen the 2 above near the sill when I do this, right? I just want to make sure I do this right the first time. Just curious to know what that threaded stud with a slot in it is for?

Sure enough, I now can see why the door sounded like loose change. Looks like I'll be ordering the mechanism that the ball is attached to which allows the door to open from the inside. All kinds of play there. As well as replace the window channel sash.

I'm hoping I can avoid having to repaint the car 'cause of this project

I looked at the innards of the door after removing the door panel and I think I need to remove the side glass to get at installing those studs when I remove those rivets. Anybody offer any tricks to installing these?

Realize I'm throwing a lot out here but man I'm intimidated a little by this project...can just see me scratching/chipping the paint...UGH!

Thanks in advance!

Jim
In God We Trust!

Frankie the Fink

I'm a C1 guy but I can tell you that I keep several rolls of the blue 'quick release' painter's tape around. If you even think there is a shadow of a chance of a paint chip anywhere...put a double layer of this product over the potential 'hit' spot and many, many times it will save your backside...

6T5RUSH

Frankie the Fink,

Thanks for the cautionary with the painter's tape. I DO plan on covering the leading edge of both the fender and both ends of the door as well as the quarter edge.

So, am I correct that I need to loosen the 2 top big bolts holding the vent window as well as the nut at near the bottom which holds the front window channel in order to make the top part of the vent window lean in more???

The glass has to come out right? in order for me to replace those 3 rivets on the leading door jamb in the pic above? I apologize if I'm sounding like a clutz here but I DO need some reassurance on approaching this task.

THANKS!

Jim
In God We Trust!

Mike Geary

Jim:

The tilt is adjusted by the threaded stud which moves the frame inboard/outboard. The top 2 bolts need to be loose to allow the frame assy to pivot.

Also, don't forget the adjuster at the bottom of the vertical channel. I loosen this up first, and then adjust the frame tilt per above. Last, I snug up that lower track adjustment so there's no strain on the channel.

Mike

6T5RUSH

Thanks Mike! Appreciate the step by step approach!

Regards,

Jim
In God We Trust

Ron Miller

The two top bolts are in oversized openings, as well as the bottom "tilt" bolt. This allows for some up/down and fore and aft adjustment, as well as being able to tilt the frame toward or away from the car as the bottom "tilt" bolt allows.

As mentioned, be sure the bottom track bolt is loose to allow free movement of the vent window frame when adjusting.

You may be able to get to the rivets for replacement without removing the side window glass, I don't remember for sure. I'd check by rolling the window up/down before I went to the trouble of removing the glass just to be sure.

6T5RUSH

Thanks Ron! At least I now have a "plan of attack"

Jim
In God We Trust!

bigal883

question what do the 2 top bolts/ screws tighten to on the large hole or deeper in to door? lost mine cant remember how to get back in. manual no help see them for sale but no one list size or info. help 1963 coupe. PS Frankie has been very helpful many times. bigal883

firstgear

if I am really worried, I will put the painters tape down and then I put duct tape down on top of that....belts and suspenders, but much better than having the paint marred.....when I was doing the bumpers on my 60 and the grill teeth I was really worried about those teeth getting into areas I didnt want them to....