Shifter problems........ still
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 798
Likes: 30
From: Alberta/Missouri....... depending when.
Before you get to this adjustment, are you pretty sure you don't have any issues with the trans or clutch linkage and also, was the shifter working fine for a while before this shifting issue started up? When you put this 'kit' into the shifter, were you satisfied that it all went together correctly and no question marks?
If everything else checks out, go for the shifter rod adjustment.
Mike T.
If everything else checks out, go for the shifter rod adjustment.
Mike T.
Fortunately the carb is still in being rebuilt so I couldn't be driving it right now anyway.
Last edited by Al T; Apr 12, 2010 at 05:01 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 798
Likes: 30
From: Alberta/Missouri....... depending when.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 6,003
Likes: 1,509
From: Prescott Arizona
Al T - If the clutch linkage was not fully disengaging the clutch, there would still be tension against the gears as you're trying to shift them. As long as you have adequate freeplay, you should be okay.
If any doubt, check against the Service Manual.
So, besides the shifter rebuild, no one has ever tried to adjust the shifter when in place on the car? If so, then there's a good chance this adjustment will help your situation.
Mike T.
If any doubt, check against the Service Manual.
So, besides the shifter rebuild, no one has ever tried to adjust the shifter when in place on the car? If so, then there's a good chance this adjustment will help your situation.
Mike T.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,660
Likes: 7
From: DFW
99 times out of 100, "can't shift into..." problems are linkage adjustment, clutch adjustment or location of the reverse lockout pin (too high/low).
Good luck,
Harry
Last edited by 66since71; Apr 12, 2010 at 04:57 PM.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2009
Posts: 798
Likes: 30
From: Alberta/Missouri....... depending when.
If it was the clutch rod adjustment, wouldn't I have this problem all the time rather than sporadically? I did replace the clutch rod last winter (08-09) because the rod in the car had been broken and then welded together with a piece of ready-rod as reinforcing. I pulled the old clutch rod out, and installed the new one adjusted to the old length. I'm trying to remember when this issue showed up...... so it is possible when I replaced the rod, the clutch isn't fully engaging?? If the clutch isn't fully engaging, do I need to make the clutch rod longer or shorter (my guess would be shorter?)? Is there an easy way of checking?
I guess I wasn't done with the dumb questions a few posts ago:o
Last edited by Al T; Apr 12, 2010 at 05:30 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Jun 2006
Posts: 2,660
Likes: 7
From: DFW
Al, the clutch problem would be that it doesn't DIS-engage completely. That could result from too much pedal free play. The manual calls for 1.25 to 2". If you have a lot more than that, then...
I still think its linkage adjustment. Make the gage (its easy) and make the adjustment (also easy).
Harry
I still think its linkage adjustment. Make the gage (its easy) and make the adjustment (also easy).
Harry
Melting Slicks
Joined: Feb 2007
Posts: 2,937
Likes: 163
From: OP Kansas
C2 of Year Finalist (appearance mods) 2019
This is the most likely culprit. I had this problem in my '55 and it was also intermittent, but once adjusted it went away for good.
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Burning Brakes
Joined: Jan 2005
Posts: 768
Likes: 0
From: Leavenworth Washington
Why the long throw? Seems like the short is so much better when it's set up right (but that's certainly a personal opinion). Long seems, well - long.
Al
I looked in the Nolan Adams book (page 362) and for a 66, it appears that the shift levers in your original picture are installed correctly but I also agree that it appears that the 3/4 lever is in gear and not neutral (think your car is in 3rd gear the way it's set in the pic). Get them both in neutral and use the gage to set up the shifter. As for short or long throw? Think it's your preference. My $.02
G
Drifting
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,640
Likes: 0
From: DeBary Fl. Amateur Radio Operator K3CQR
Gary, I was not advocating the long throw position, it was just for info to the OP. Me, personally, I like the sound of the click/chunk/click of the long throw. Now, mine is in the short throw holes, why, I don't know. Bill
Instructor
Joined: May 2008
Posts: 108
Likes: 1
From: Holton Kansas
make or buy a gage for the shifter. You will find that the reverse linkage is not adjusted correctly or that the tab on the end of your shifter is worn down. So when you bring it from reverse to neutral it is not totally kicking out of the reverse in the transmission. and the tab on the end of the shifter is sliding into the first gear slot and locking up.
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2008
Posts: 1,194
Likes: 13
From: Seattle area, WA (On the Eastside)
Al,
To make sure that the shifter is working properly, why don't you disconnect the linkage rods/arms from the levers and throw some shifts in there. If it moves freely, then your rebuild was good and it's most likely the linkage adjustment. If I remember correctly, the 3 studs on the tranny should all sit perpendicular to the floor...straight up. That's neutral. And if you got the gauge, lock that baby into the shifter slot and passively bolt on the levers while adjusting the rods/arms. Mechron helped me with mine, and I think you may need someone to shift for you while you're under there. Mine got stuck a few times because the adjustment was off, so it was a little trial and error.
Also, just go ahead and jack up the rear...it makes doing this a lot easier.
To make sure that the shifter is working properly, why don't you disconnect the linkage rods/arms from the levers and throw some shifts in there. If it moves freely, then your rebuild was good and it's most likely the linkage adjustment. If I remember correctly, the 3 studs on the tranny should all sit perpendicular to the floor...straight up. That's neutral. And if you got the gauge, lock that baby into the shifter slot and passively bolt on the levers while adjusting the rods/arms. Mechron helped me with mine, and I think you may need someone to shift for you while you're under there. Mine got stuck a few times because the adjustment was off, so it was a little trial and error.
Also, just go ahead and jack up the rear...it makes doing this a lot easier.
Pro
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 524
Likes: 12
From: Auckland New Zealand
Here is a pic of my gearbox just before installation. Shifts real well.
It's an AGE Supercase trans but everything external is the same. Hope this helps.
This Image shows the offset on arms a bit better.
It's an AGE Supercase trans but everything external is the same. Hope this helps.
This Image shows the offset on arms a bit better.
Last edited by Nev Williams; Apr 13, 2010 at 05:28 AM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,777
Likes: 105
The transmission and clutch seemed to work fine...... when the shifter wasn't binding. If the clutch linkage was not adjusted correctly, how would this cause the issue? This has always been a "sporadic" problem, so I assumed it was an issue with the shifter, not the tranny/clutch. Sometimes the shifter would work fine and then out of the blue jam. It's been really frustrating. I think I rebuilt the shifter correctly, it's pretty straight forward. Disassembled the shifter. Parts washed the grunge off the plates, cleaned them up nice, used the thicker interlock plate so has no sideslop in the plates, new pin and shaft, lubed everything as instructed, reassmebled it.... realized I had the plates in wrong, disassembled, reassembled. When I had it on the bench, it shifted fine. Once I had it installed in the car..... stuck.
Fortunately the carb is still in being rebuilt so I couldn't be driving it right now anyway.
Fortunately the carb is still in being rebuilt so I couldn't be driving it right now anyway.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,345
Likes: 87
From: Northern MN
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15-'16-'17
When I did mine I pulled the shifter and the rods out the top. There is enough room. I haven't tried to pull it out the bottom but that may be possible. The shifter is easier to get at from the top side. JMO
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 7,246
Likes: 21
From: Going too fast over the hill. Iowa
attached to the shifter. I always do it that way.
PS: I rebuilt 2 factory shifters that I had trouble with using 2 GM
rebuild kits, and I still had rattles and problems with the trans
being left in 2 gears at the same time. When I got tired of getting
under the hot car at the side of the road to burn my arms on the
exhausts while I put the trans in neutral, I bought a Hurst.
Problems solved.
Last edited by magicv8; Aug 24, 2010 at 12:32 PM.
Melting Slicks
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 2,777
Likes: 105
Thanks Guys!! Ive been "under the hot car" many times as well.....Im going back to long throws............On the Hurst shifter can you adjust the stops from the bottom or do you adjust them from the top?.....
For those who have them in a C2 - What do you think of the Hurst ishifter overall? Ive heard similar horror stories about them as well - go figure?
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 7,246
Likes: 21
From: Going too fast over the hill. Iowa
all the GM shifter doesn't have any. They are for drag racers who power shift (and I
occasionally do, even without them)
For those who have them in a C2 - What do you think of the Hurst ishifter overall?
Ive heard similar horror stories about them as well - go figure?
Corvette I drive now. No problems with the Hurst. A welcome change after noisy
GM shifters that hang the Muncie in 2 gears all the time
Heel & Toe
Joined: Oct 2008
Posts: 23
Likes: 0
From: Winston-Salem NC
I am researching the linkage issues and have a couple of questions:
I have a 64 but the linkage is on the other side with respect to pictures shown. Mine faces the driver side where these pics show the linkage on the driver side. Do not understand why?
My linkage is locked up, wheels locked, clutch in neutral position.
