JMHO.
CAM Selection
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 10
From: Dallas TX
CAM Selection
I've read several archives about cam selection and was looking at COMP Cams website for their 30-30 cam. There is also a 327/350hp cam under their muscle car line. The 30-30 seems to be what is talked about on CF but does anyone have any info on the other:
30-30
PN: 12-672-4
Duration: .239/.246
Lift: .483/.477
RPM Range: 2300 - 6500
327/350HP
PN: 12-106-3
Duration: .222/.222
Lift: .447/.447
RPM Range: 1800 - 5800
I'm doing a ground up build for my 63 on a 327 block I came across. Stock crank and rods, block bored to .040. This is going to be a street motor. I would like a nice lope at idle but nothing too radical. I plan to use double hump heads because I want it to look stock under the hood (read all the arguments about new alum).
+Debating on speed pro hyper or forged pistons.
+hydraulic lifters—don’t see the need to spend big on a roller setup.
+camshaft—this is where I need some help (open to other suggestions).
+intake—stock aluminum.
+exhaust—2.5inch rams horns
30-30
PN: 12-672-4
Duration: .239/.246
Lift: .483/.477
RPM Range: 2300 - 6500
327/350HP
PN: 12-106-3
Duration: .222/.222
Lift: .447/.447
RPM Range: 1800 - 5800
I'm doing a ground up build for my 63 on a 327 block I came across. Stock crank and rods, block bored to .040. This is going to be a street motor. I would like a nice lope at idle but nothing too radical. I plan to use double hump heads because I want it to look stock under the hood (read all the arguments about new alum).
+Debating on speed pro hyper or forged pistons.
+hydraulic lifters—don’t see the need to spend big on a roller setup.
+camshaft—this is where I need some help (open to other suggestions).
+intake—stock aluminum.
+exhaust—2.5inch rams horns
Pro
Joined: Jan 2007
Posts: 524
Likes: 12
From: Auckland New Zealand
The 2 videos I posted on this thread will give you an idea of one of the Comp Cams for the 327. This is cam is the N+L79H - PNo12-671-4 from the Nostalgia Plus range
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...led-video.html
There are 3 cams in that range
N+300HP - PNo 12-670-4 if you want to keep things fairly stock
N+L79H - PNo12-671-4 for a bit more aggression and nice lopey idle
N+30-30H - PNo 12-672-4 this looks to be a bit wilder again
For my money, the N+L79H is about as cammey as I would want to go
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/c1-a...led-video.html
There are 3 cams in that range
N+300HP - PNo 12-670-4 if you want to keep things fairly stock
N+L79H - PNo12-671-4 for a bit more aggression and nice lopey idle
N+30-30H - PNo 12-672-4 this looks to be a bit wilder again
For my money, the N+L79H is about as cammey as I would want to go
Le Mans Master
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 6,350
Likes: 423
From: Seattle Area WA
If you want hydraulic lifters you are looking at the 327/350 cam, the 30-30 is a solid lifter cam. The 350hp cam has a very nice lope to it when used with the correct compression ratio. Stock, the 350 hp engine used forged pistons however you can use the hyper pistons unless you plan on hammering on it.
Make sure you have the later style '65 and later rods, they have a stronger large end, have the machine shop magnaflux them for cracks and install ARP rod bolts while you are at it.
Make sure you have the later style '65 and later rods, they have a stronger large end, have the machine shop magnaflux them for cracks and install ARP rod bolts while you are at it.
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 10
From: Dallas TX
If you want hydraulic lifters you are looking at the 327/350 cam, the 30-30 is a solid lifter cam. The 350hp cam has a very nice lope to it when used with the correct compression ratio. Stock, the 350 hp engine used forged pistons however you can use the hyper pistons unless you plan on hammering on it.
[/QUOTE]Make sure you have the later style '65 and later rods, they have a stronger large end, have the machine shop magnaflux them for cracks and install ARP rod bolts while you are at it.[/QUOTE]
Will do.
Safety Car
Joined: Mar 2009
Posts: 4,191
Likes: 951
From: Corpus Christi, TX
Comp makes hydraulic substitutes for most of the solid lifter cams in their Nostalgia + product line.
I can't say whether you'll have any issues with an hydraulic cam in a small block, but I will NEVER run another one in a rat motor. I ran their XE274H in my 427 and it completely shut down at 5500 RPM under load - as if someone shut off the key! Revving under no load you could hear it struggle to get to 6000. When I had the motor rebuilt in 2003, I used their N+ LS6 replacement. The thing blasted through 6300 RPM without even a grumble.
My one real complaint with Comp is they design their cams for small lobe separation angles (typically 110 degrees). You can get some wider spreads (112) on some specialty cams like the N+ series, but for the most part they idle kinda rough, and the power curve is very peaky in the mid range. They do make great power, but starting and idling is an unavoidable aspect of driving a car on the street. It's worth the few HP to make the car more well street mannered: my current cam is a Crane solid with 114 degrees LSA.
I can't say whether you'll have any issues with an hydraulic cam in a small block, but I will NEVER run another one in a rat motor. I ran their XE274H in my 427 and it completely shut down at 5500 RPM under load - as if someone shut off the key! Revving under no load you could hear it struggle to get to 6000. When I had the motor rebuilt in 2003, I used their N+ LS6 replacement. The thing blasted through 6300 RPM without even a grumble.
My one real complaint with Comp is they design their cams for small lobe separation angles (typically 110 degrees). You can get some wider spreads (112) on some specialty cams like the N+ series, but for the most part they idle kinda rough, and the power curve is very peaky in the mid range. They do make great power, but starting and idling is an unavoidable aspect of driving a car on the street. It's worth the few HP to make the car more well street mannered: my current cam is a Crane solid with 114 degrees LSA.
Drifting
Joined: Apr 2004
Posts: 1,302
Likes: 36
From: Allen Park Mi
need to know trans and gearing as well...
the 30-30 is a great choice for a street car with at least 3.70 gears (and preferably the wide ratio muncie gear set)
thats what i've run in a 327 and love it.
th L79 cam is also a great alternative if you want to go with a hydraulic setup.
i'd go 30-30 personally.. but you need to make sure you have the compression, and gearing to support it
A
the 30-30 is a great choice for a street car with at least 3.70 gears (and preferably the wide ratio muncie gear set)
thats what i've run in a 327 and love it.
th L79 cam is also a great alternative if you want to go with a hydraulic setup.
i'd go 30-30 personally.. but you need to make sure you have the compression, and gearing to support it
A
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Racer
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 292
Likes: 1
From: West Los Angeles California
can you add a little more information about the compression ratio requirement.......would the 350 need less compression than the 30-30... any idea of the vaccum they pull at idle?
regards, xiaoman
Thread Starter
Burning Brakes
Joined: Jun 2007
Posts: 1,062
Likes: 10
From: Dallas TX
I had a crane cam in my last build and it sounded great. It was their version of the corvette 350hp. I dont remember the PN. Can you still find those?
I am running the original t10 (which will get a rebuild) and 3.70 gears.
I 'm not sure what my compression ratio will be since I havent made a final decision on the heads but I am guessing I will be >9.5 running 64cc heads
I am running the original t10 (which will get a rebuild) and 3.70 gears.
I 'm not sure what my compression ratio will be since I havent made a final decision on the heads but I am guessing I will be >9.5 running 64cc heads
Last edited by TX63CONV; Apr 21, 2010 at 09:32 PM.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Nov 2008
Posts: 5,691
Likes: 12
From: columbus oh
unless you are running at least 10-5 to one on the 350 or 11-11-5 to one on a 327 i would not run the 30-30- unless you have at least a 370 with a wide box.....even then something with less duration would be desirable for all around street running....for a juice roller i really like the comp thumper series and 6500 and higher is not out of the question for a small block, juice rollers in a bb are a different story due to the weight of valve train components but with the right springs 6000-6500 is doable....i would not be afraid of a solid setup if you dont mind setting lash periodically and i would go roller if the budget allows....there are a myriad of great solid flat tappet cams available and my opinion is you want something no more radical than 230-240 range 50 off and 480-520 lift....heck, an 098 set at 4 deg. retarded with a 327 at 9-9.5-1 would work......good luck
Bow-Tie Guy
Joined: Dec 2004
Posts: 1,057
Likes: 30
From: Chesapeake VA
Thinking of using the Thumper 12-600-4 in my friend's 66 C2 with stock 327/300, 4-speed, ram-horn manifolds & stock gears. Anybody tried anything similar to this combo? His priority is awesome sound at local shows but want to make sure it doesn't kill driveability. I was initially steering him toward the '151' but after talking to a couple different Cam Tech-Lines, consensus was the 151 wouldn't give us that drive-in lope.
Racer
Joined: Feb 2010
Posts: 292
Likes: 1
From: West Los Angeles California
Advanced
Joined: Nov 2009
Posts: 78
Likes: 1
You should know that the 30-30 does not really come alive until about 4500rpm on my stock 65FI engine so I concur that it is not a good choice without low gearing. There is a a guy that is somewhat of an expert on this subject on the NCRS forum and he recommends the LT-1 cam saying it makes more low end power and about the same high end with a street exhaust system. BTW these cams are availible from Federal Mogul probably cheaper than Comp Cams.
