A/C Question
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,345
Likes: 87
From: Northern MN
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15-'16-'17
A/C Question
Maybe someone will know on this forum. I can't seem to find an answer on the internet.
If I replace the A/C compressor without hooking it up to the system (just so the belt can be adjusted and turning) along with the accumulator and the orifice tube, would I be able to drive the unit to the repair shop the have the system evacuated/purged prior to the necessary recharge???? Any help or advice would be appreciated.
If I replace the A/C compressor without hooking it up to the system (just so the belt can be adjusted and turning) along with the accumulator and the orifice tube, would I be able to drive the unit to the repair shop the have the system evacuated/purged prior to the necessary recharge???? Any help or advice would be appreciated.
Tech Contributor
Joined: May 2005
Posts: 15,576
Likes: 118
From: Conroe Texas
You should be able to as long as you don't turn the A/C on. Remember the A/C compressor is not turning when the A/C is off, even if the car is running. Energizing A/C clutch engages the compressor with the belt pulley.
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,345
Likes: 87
From: Northern MN
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15-'16-'17
Thanks Jeff. That's what I needed to know. I thought that was the case but wasn't sure and wanted to check.
Steve
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,345
Likes: 87
From: Northern MN
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15-'16-'17
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 11,274
Likes: 2,136
From: Bowling Green, Kentucky
Maybe someone will know on this forum. I can't seem to find an answer on the internet.
If I replace the A/C compressor without hooking it up to the system (just so the belt can be adjusted and turning) along with the accumulator and the orifice tube, would I be able to drive the unit to the repair shop the have the system evacuated/purged prior to the necessary recharge???? Any help or advice would be appreciated.
If I replace the A/C compressor without hooking it up to the system (just so the belt can be adjusted and turning) along with the accumulator and the orifice tube, would I be able to drive the unit to the repair shop the have the system evacuated/purged prior to the necessary recharge???? Any help or advice would be appreciated.
You mention an orifice tube and an accumulator? These were not originally installed, so I take it you are installing an aftermarket system?? Are you also converting to another refrigerant (ie 134a)??
The original system had a RECEIVER/DRIER just downstream of the condenser. This contained a dessicant to remove moisture. Maybe this is what you called an "accumulator". Any dessicant should be changed/replaced just before evacuating and charging with refrigerant. Since the dessicant will quickly pickup moisture, get to the AC shop soon after installing.....don't wait a few weeks......or have them install prior to evacuation and charging. Also, somewhere in your commissioning/startup process, you need to do a leak check and fix any leaks. The dessicant is best changed after the leak checking process is complete, and you know you have a tight system.
Larry
Thread Starter
Melting Slicks
Joined: Oct 2004
Posts: 3,345
Likes: 87
From: Northern MN
St. Jude Donor '13-'14-'15-'16-'17
Jeff and the others are right on....just don't turn on the compressor.....or just remove the compressor clutch wire.
You mention an orifice tube and an accumulator? These were not originally installed, so I take it you are installing an aftermarket system?? Are you also converting to another refrigerant (ie 134a)??
The original system had a RECEIVER/DRIER just downstream of the condenser. This contained a dessicant to remove moisture. Maybe this is what you called an "accumulator". Any dessicant should be changed/replaced just before evacuating and charging with refrigerant. Since the dessicant will quickly pickup moisture, get to the AC shop soon after installing.....don't wait a few weeks......or have them install prior to evacuation and charging. Also, somewhere in your commissioning/startup process, you need to do a leak check and fix any leaks. The dessicant is best changed after the leak checking process is complete, and you know you have a tight system.
Larry
You mention an orifice tube and an accumulator? These were not originally installed, so I take it you are installing an aftermarket system?? Are you also converting to another refrigerant (ie 134a)??
The original system had a RECEIVER/DRIER just downstream of the condenser. This contained a dessicant to remove moisture. Maybe this is what you called an "accumulator". Any dessicant should be changed/replaced just before evacuating and charging with refrigerant. Since the dessicant will quickly pickup moisture, get to the AC shop soon after installing.....don't wait a few weeks......or have them install prior to evacuation and charging. Also, somewhere in your commissioning/startup process, you need to do a leak check and fix any leaks. The dessicant is best changed after the leak checking process is complete, and you know you have a tight system.
Larry
Larry,
You are correct, they are calling the accumulator what is actually the receiver/dryer. I am not sure what the orifice is but in everything I have read it says to replace that item also. So, I will do so. I have already had the system checked for leaks. The compressor was where it was leaking. I had it done at the Chevrolet dealer here. They wanted over $800.00 to replace the compressor, reciever/dryer and the orifice. Of course that was with new GM parts. They only provide a 1 year warranty on the compressor. I can buy re-man parts for a lot less, install them and have a reputable shop do the evacuation and charging. This will keep the 2 year warranty on the re-man compressor. So I will go that way.
Steve
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2008
Posts: 859
Likes: 53
From: Magnolia Texas
Steve,
Unless you just want a new (or reman) compressor, the seal is easily replaceable by an AC shop. The early GM compressor is one of the easiest to replace and the last one I did, used a ceramic seal for longer life. That would cost a lot less than a new (or reman) compressor.
I'm Steve too
Unless you just want a new (or reman) compressor, the seal is easily replaceable by an AC shop. The early GM compressor is one of the easiest to replace and the last one I did, used a ceramic seal for longer life. That would cost a lot less than a new (or reman) compressor.
I'm Steve too
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Verdad Gallardo
Race Director
Joined: Apr 2005
Posts: 11,274
Likes: 2,136
From: Bowling Green, Kentucky
Steve:
The closest thing to an "orifice" for the older systems is the EXPANSION VALVE. Note that expansion valves should have a small inlet screen installed to catch any debris/dessicant from the receiver/drier.
GM went to a CCOT (cycling compressor orifice tube) system in the mid-1970's.....and this is what most systems are today. So that is how most AC repairman/mechanics talk nowadays.
Let us knw if additional help is needed.
Larry
The closest thing to an "orifice" for the older systems is the EXPANSION VALVE. Note that expansion valves should have a small inlet screen installed to catch any debris/dessicant from the receiver/drier.
GM went to a CCOT (cycling compressor orifice tube) system in the mid-1970's.....and this is what most systems are today. So that is how most AC repairman/mechanics talk nowadays.
Let us knw if additional help is needed.
Larry