More ?'s On my rear end problems.
04-28-2010, 10:41 AM
#21
Drifting
Thread Starter
Not correct. The rear suspension geometry ensures that the yoke is pushed INWARDS at all times with at least 300lbs load. This load increases during cornering up to a lateral load of 1.3G, or if the car is lifted off the ground. You can take the clips off and throw them away and it will make NO difference to the handling. Many have in fact. Many more have driven their cars for years without knowing about the missing clips with no negative effects, including you.
I see many people have tried to offer advice steering you back to the original problem of the rotor hitting the caliper. How about focusing on that?
I see many people have tried to offer advice steering you back to the original problem of the rotor hitting the caliper. How about focusing on that?
04-28-2010, 11:23 AM
#22
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You have stated previously that: "I told him that stuff was pressed together and I would just about promise the clearances were right."
The GM spindle bearing "clearance" spec is .001" to .008" end play (and note that end play is not wobble, etc. - it is the in/out movement of the spindle in relation to the housing).
Now I don't know too many guys who would ever assemble the spindle bearings on the high end of that spec, since it can lead to the type of rotor / caliper contact (depending on the stack up of tolerances), that you are seeing. I always set the end play to .001" period. No larger, no smaller.
Either your bearing end play is not set correctly, or you have something else wrong in the spindle to housing (or caliper / rotor) assembly. Recommend that you start there (to correct your rotor / caliper noise issue).
Plasticman
The GM spindle bearing "clearance" spec is .001" to .008" end play (and note that end play is not wobble, etc. - it is the in/out movement of the spindle in relation to the housing).
Now I don't know too many guys who would ever assemble the spindle bearings on the high end of that spec, since it can lead to the type of rotor / caliper contact (depending on the stack up of tolerances), that you are seeing. I always set the end play to .001" period. No larger, no smaller.
Either your bearing end play is not set correctly, or you have something else wrong in the spindle to housing (or caliper / rotor) assembly. Recommend that you start there (to correct your rotor / caliper noise issue).
Plasticman
04-28-2010, 03:18 PM
#23
Team Owner
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Either the caliper mounting bracket is bent, you have the wrong rotor, or the spindle bearings aren't fully seated; the diff yoke clips have nothing to do with the problem.
04-28-2010, 05:51 PM
#24
Drifting
Thread Starter
And I believe we have a winner. Got my car back to the shop (my shop) and my guys decided to help me look at it. Pulled the trailing arm, Noticed that the axle with the broken clip would not pull all the way out of the diff. so I doubt if the clip is missing like suspected. It does go in and out but no more than a regular c-clip GM Axle. Glad I didn't spend $1500.00 to replace that piece.
We got it all set up on the table vice and noticed that the caliper wasn't parallel to the rotor. After taking several "I'll guess, I'll check it here" measurements it seems the caliper mounting bracket is bent.
I check the run out off the spindle and it has .003 at a measurement inside the studs and .004 on the outside of the flange. With the rotor bolted on the spindle the run out at the outer edge is .010 . Is that to much?
Pictures.....
Last edited by SledgeHammer 2.0; 04-28-2010 at 05:53 PM.
04-28-2010, 06:02 PM
#25
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1573833984-post13.html
04-28-2010, 06:31 PM
#26
Drifting
Thread Starter
Bent caliper bracket? You mean exactly like MikeM suggested in this post?
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1573833984-post13.html
http://forums.corvetteforum.com/1573833984-post13.html
It looks right now that's what I need to replace first. Now what about the run out? Is it within specs?
04-28-2010, 07:10 PM
#27
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You may have a poorly seated rotor (rust, etc.,) at the spindle flange, or a bent spindle. The fact that you measured .003" TIR at the spindle tells me the spindle (flange) is bent/warped. Probably at the same time the caliper bracket was bent.
Note that while you are checking, verify end play on the spindle.............
Plasticman
Last edited by Plasticman; 04-28-2010 at 07:14 PM.
04-28-2010, 10:00 PM
#28
Drifting
Thread Starter
The TIR of .010" of the rotor is excessive and will lead to caliper "piston" pumping air into the brakes (spongy brakes).
You may have a poorly seated rotor (rust, etc.,) at the spindle flange, or a bent spindle. The fact that you measured .003" TIR at the spindle tells me the spindle (flange) is bent/warped. Probably at the same time the caliper bracket was bent.
Note that while you are checking, verify end play on the spindle.............
Plasticman
You may have a poorly seated rotor (rust, etc.,) at the spindle flange, or a bent spindle. The fact that you measured .003" TIR at the spindle tells me the spindle (flange) is bent/warped. Probably at the same time the caliper bracket was bent.
Note that while you are checking, verify end play on the spindle.............
Plasticman
05-06-2010, 08:03 PM
#30
Drifting
Thread Starter
Wow, What a nightmare, but I thought I would give an Update on what has been going on.
To make it a real short story, the bracket was bent got another one and fixed that problem. The Second problem turned out to be that the half shaft yoke at the rear end side was hitting the saddle of the rear end yoke as it spun around.
Who knows what is causing that. I took a die grinder and cut the casting slag off of the rear end yoke and that problem is now gone. I have no idea why, how or what all of a sudden was making the yoke rub on the saddle of the rear end yoke. The u-joints were all good.
To make it a real short story, the bracket was bent got another one and fixed that problem. The Second problem turned out to be that the half shaft yoke at the rear end side was hitting the saddle of the rear end yoke as it spun around.
Who knows what is causing that. I took a die grinder and cut the casting slag off of the rear end yoke and that problem is now gone. I have no idea why, how or what all of a sudden was making the yoke rub on the saddle of the rear end yoke. The u-joints were all good.
05-07-2010, 01:15 PM
#31
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The Second problem turned out to be that the half shaft yoke at the rear end side was hitting the saddle of the rear end yoke as it spun around.
Who knows what is causing that. I took a die grinder and cut the casting slag off of the rear end yoke and that problem is now gone. I have no idea why, how or what all of a sudden was making the yoke rub on the saddle of the rear end yoke. The u-joints were all good.
Who knows what is causing that. I took a die grinder and cut the casting slag off of the rear end yoke and that problem is now gone. I have no idea why, how or what all of a sudden was making the yoke rub on the saddle of the rear end yoke. The u-joints were all good.
07-11-2010, 07:51 AM
#32
Burning Brakes
Sound's real high to me, and I bet the final bill will be even higher than that. I would contact Gary Ramadei about a rebuild......gary.ramadei@radiall.com