Radiator replacement
Safety Car
Joined: Dec 1999
Posts: 4,389
Likes: 1,185
From: Lexington,NC,USA
C1 of Year Finalist (track prepared) 2019
Re: Radiator replacement (66 SC'ED VETTE)
66 SC'ED VETTE:
Do you know the name of the dealer in NC and where he is located? Just curious because I called Griffin in Piedmont, SC and was told that they had no dealers in NC. I ended up buying a 6561AF-BXX for a '62 from Summit for about $536.
Do you know the name of the dealer in NC and where he is located? Just curious because I called Griffin in Piedmont, SC and was told that they had no dealers in NC. I ended up buying a 6561AF-BXX for a '62 from Summit for about $536.
Racer
Joined: Nov 2000
Posts: 454
Likes: 7
From: Louisville Kentucky
Re: Radiator replacement (cbernhardt)
I called Griffin themselves and told them where I was located, and they gave me the number. I Spoke with Ron at Griffin and he is the one that gave me the number. Hope this helps.
William
William
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,593
Likes: 631
From: Brighton
Re: Radiator replacement (66 SC'ED VETTE)
When you're ready to buy, call me. I will beat anyones price, period. But If price is such an issue you guys should really consider the least expensive model instead of trying to find the lowest price on the largest tubes. Bigger tubes do cool better but here me out for a minute. The big jump is the upgrade from copper to aluminum. Picture a ladder with ten rungs. Changing from copper to aluminum moves you up seven rungs. Going to the larger (1.25") tube moves you up one more rung, the 1.5" tube moves you up two rungs. These increases in cooling capcity are small compared to the copper/alum upgrade. There are about 4-5 aluminum radiator manufacturers in the U.S. from Visteon, Delphi, Fluidyne, thermal systems, C & R, none of these companies even make anything bigger than a two row, one inch tube radiator. If that is good enough for nascar, it's good enough for your corvette. 6266 rads go for under $500
Thread Starter
Advanced
Joined: May 2001
Posts: 75
Likes: 0
From: Mount Pleasant SC
Re: Radiator replacement (Tom DeWitt)
Tom,
I am ready to buy, so lets talk. I am building a small block that should produce 425 HP, I may put AC on the car and I may put a automatic trans it one day but not soon. I need a radiator that will bolt in with no mods and will handle the maybes above. Give me a good price (delivered to my house) and I will support this forum.
Mike
I am ready to buy, so lets talk. I am building a small block that should produce 425 HP, I may put AC on the car and I may put a automatic trans it one day but not soon. I need a radiator that will bolt in with no mods and will handle the maybes above. Give me a good price (delivered to my house) and I will support this forum.
Mike
Racer
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 352
Likes: 0
From: Highlands Ranch Colorado
Re: Radiator replacement (Tom DeWitt)
i'm looking for an aluminum rad for my 454 big block crate engine, currently residing in my 67 convertible. do you have a straight replacement and if so, what are the specs and how much? thanks,
Tom
Tom
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,593
Likes: 631
From: Brighton
Re: Radiator replacement (thorin)
Thorin, what core support is in the car now? If it's a 66-67 bb (22.5") core, use a Griffin. If it's still the stock small block (19") core support, I'd stay with the factory aluminum Harrison/deWitt rad. As pricing goes, email me direct with the answer and I'll quote you pricing on a few options.
Many people, almost everyone, asks me "do you have a direct fit model for my car". Both Dewitt and griffin rads are designed to fit the factory core support, mounting bracket location, hose connection size and location for all years. Nothing we sell, requires modifications of any kind.
Many people, almost everyone, asks me "do you have a direct fit model for my car". Both Dewitt and griffin rads are designed to fit the factory core support, mounting bracket location, hose connection size and location for all years. Nothing we sell, requires modifications of any kind.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 5,407
Likes: 2,202
Re: Radiator replacement (Tom DeWitt)
Well, took the '65 cruising today with the new DeWitt radiator in it....looks like success in keeping the temp down at 65-70 mph highway cruising. It used to hit 210 or above if I drove over 65 for very long....even in moderate weather like today (74 here in Knoxville). Today cruised at 70, even some 80 and it never broke 180. The real test will be when it hits 95, but this is progress!
:seeya
:seeya
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Brett Foote
Intermediate
Joined: Feb 2002
Posts: 48
Likes: 0
From: Palestine TX
Re: Radiator replacement (Tom DeWitt)
I have Harrison aluminum radiator on my 65 big block. Just bought car recently and it had new radiator. What originally came on car? Is there a difference in the cooling between the Harrison and the other brand radiators?
Car idles warm (225) and continues to heat past 225 while idling but cools down on highway to 190. This is on 70 degree days so I am wondering about summer? I am putting seals on tomorrow to cover gap (1/2 inch) between radiator and shroud as suggested. Would appreciate any other suggestions!
Car idles warm (225) and continues to heat past 225 while idling but cools down on highway to 190. This is on 70 degree days so I am wondering about summer? I am putting seals on tomorrow to cover gap (1/2 inch) between radiator and shroud as suggested. Would appreciate any other suggestions!
Burning Brakes
Joined: Mar 2001
Posts: 995
Likes: 0
From: Alhambra CA
Re: Radiator replacement (gilbybarr)
Trust me,
You won't have any problems when the weather heats up..
I have the same setup as you..
With the AC on and 90+ she runs 180 to 190 all day..
I used to run 210 to 220 under the same conditions..
Long lights were a real drag, was forced to shut off the AC or fear overheating...
I don't even worry about the gauge anymore
Even long lights will rarely bring it even close to 200.. :)
Well worth the time and $
Not to mention the peace of mind
Tony
You won't have any problems when the weather heats up..
I have the same setup as you..
With the AC on and 90+ she runs 180 to 190 all day..
I used to run 210 to 220 under the same conditions..
Long lights were a real drag, was forced to shut off the AC or fear overheating...
I don't even worry about the gauge anymore
Even long lights will rarely bring it even close to 200.. :)
Well worth the time and $
Not to mention the peace of mind
Tony
Former Vendor
Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 5,593
Likes: 631
From: Brighton
Re: Radiator replacement (NBlue396)
Most people don't pay very much attention to radiator, unless there is a problem. My guess is that your existing radiator is a copper/brass replacement and yes there is a big difference in materials and brands. The original Harrison aluminum radiator would have no end tanks and resembles an AC evaporator. The copper rad would have end tanks, which look like valve covers. If you have a c/b model you can drop the temps by 30 degress or more by switching to aluminum. Use either the correct repro $695 or the Griffin replacement $495. I have both in stock. It's funny that most people agree with me that changing a C/B car to aluminum is an upgrade but don't agree when I suggest changing an aluminum equipt car to c/b is a downgrade. It has to work both ways. td
I just realized you said 65 BB or 396. That's a classic car and I wouldn't think of putting anything in there but the factory Harrison model. It's more money that the small block but that car should be preversed, I think. Here's the real macoy
www.dewitts.com/pages/productdetail.asp?prodID=7
[Modified by Tom DeWitt, 1:04 PM 3/27/2002]
I just realized you said 65 BB or 396. That's a classic car and I wouldn't think of putting anything in there but the factory Harrison model. It's more money that the small block but that car should be preversed, I think. Here's the real macoy
www.dewitts.com/pages/productdetail.asp?prodID=7
[Modified by Tom DeWitt, 1:04 PM 3/27/2002]
