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2025 c3 ('68-'73) of the Year Finalist - Unmodified
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Temp Sending Unit
I have been fighting a temperature sending switch problem on my '57 for a long time. I have a 160 thermostat. It will first go up to about 190 and drop back a little, but then slowly climbs to 200 or more at idle. It is not hot though. Does not boil, no excess pressure. I used an IR gun when it shows that high but the radiator, neck and manifold at the unit read from 130 to 145 or so. Most of the 6 or 7 that I've tried all read hot, except two originals which read too cold. They may have been for a dash light. The lastest one was from Corvette Central which claims it's calibrated but it also shows hot. I have another coming from DeWitts, but it may do the same. Any ideas?
I've gone through exactly the same thing. Tried a couple different Wells units. They read too hot. My original read too cold. Tried one from Lectric Limited (that's where DeWitt's gets theirs) it read too hot as well. It was fine for about the first 25 miles, right on 180, and then it crept up to 220, dropped back to 180 and now it's all over the place. I got tired of messing with it and put the original back in. It may read cold but at least it doesn't startle me when I glance at.
A really aggravating problem...especially when idling at long Orlando stoplights on a hot summer's day...your eye can't quit rolling over to look at the temp gauge and gritting your teeth. My sending unit is spot on and I'm grateful for that (verified across a range of temps with I/R gun).
I have no personal knowledge of how accurate or useful the information is in the attachment but maybe it can be used to 'match up' a temp sending unit that is at least close to correct...
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Nov 6, 2010 at 04:03 PM.
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Thanks Frankie. I have tried everyone of those in the pdf file. All too hot. The picture of the guage is from a mid year. I wonder if my gauge should have a resistor on it too? You know the 57 guage has only two terminals. The 12V side and the sending unit wire side. It's very aggrevating. Hard to drive with one eye on the guage all the time.
Folks will argue with this but I'll tell you what the Sea Ray manufacturer did to fix their recall on the temp sending unit in my 2001 boat reading too high. They install a resistor in the circuit until the gauge read correctly at normal running temperature. True...its a non-linear fix and the accuracy will vary around the resistor's targeted temperature but any inaccuracy hasn't been too dramatic in the boat. I'm quite satisfied with it.
Can't say if it worth trying the same thing on a classic vette tho.
I had the same problem with my 66 and I tried about a dozen different new and used sending units and almost gave up. Then I was at CarQuest and asked them to look one up . They gave me 53-7719 TS6
and to my surprise it is pretty close to my IR gun.
Give it a try and if it works for you pass on the info to others.
Bill Purdy
Folks will argue with this but I'll tell you what the Sea Ray manufacturer did to fix their recall on the temp sending unit in my 2001 boat reading too high. They install a resistor in the circuit until the gauge read correctly at normal running temperature. True...its a non-linear fix and the accuracy will vary around the resistor's targeted temperature but any inaccuracy hasn't been too dramatic in the boat. I'm quite satisfied with it.
Can't say if it worth trying the same thing on a classic vette tho.
Corvette Central sells a kit specifically for this.
I have another coming from DeWitts, but it may do the same. Any ideas?
The first thing I would check is the resistance through the wire from the sending unit to the guage. A lot of cars have resistors buried in the wire harness somewhere to make a bad sending unit read correctly. The problem with the resistor concept is that the resistor is linear and the sending unit is not, so this will make a bad sending unit read correct at only one setting and any where else it reads wrong.
Then when you add a correct sending unit, and you have a resistor in the line, it will change it's output and provide bad readings.
If the line reading shows little to no resistance, install the new sender with anti-seaze only. Do not use pipe dope or teflon tape, as that can change the grounding of the switch body. Our switch is not made by Lectric limited and we rarely get any back.
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Originally Posted by Tom DeWitt
The first thing I would check is the resistance through the wire from the sending unit to the guage. A lot of cars have resistors buried in the wire harness somewhere to make a bad sending unit read correctly. The problem with the resistor concept is that the resistor is linear and the sending unit is not, so this will make a bad sending unit read correct at only one setting and any where else it reads wrong.
Then when you add a correct sending unit, and you have a resistor in the line, it will change it's output and provide bad readings.
If the line reading shows little to no resistance, install the new sender with anti-seaze only. Do not use pipe dope or teflon tape, as that can change the grounding of the switch body. Our switch is not made by Lectric limited and we rarely get any back.
Thanks Tom. I did what you said as far as not using any dope or teflon on the Corvette Central unit. I'm not sure how to check for resistance. It has an aluminum intake, and I wondered how the aluminum would get a good ground. All the wiring has already been replaced, so I'm sure there's no resistor in line. Your switch should be here in the next day or two and I hope it's the last one I have to buy. I'm cornering the market on them right now.
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Originally Posted by 63split63
I had the same problem with my 66 and I tried about a dozen different new and used sending units and almost gave up. Then I was at CarQuest and asked them to look one up . They gave me 53-7719 TS6
and to my surprise it is pretty close to my IR gun.
Give it a try and if it works for you pass on the info to others.
Bill Purdy
I already have the TS6. It was one of the first one's I tried. Thanks
I wrote you twice in an attempt to discuss returning mine I believe I've since thrown it away.
John Dingman and Christyn are running DeWitts, as I have been developing our new aluminum brazing operation for about two years now. I forward all mail I get to them. If you wanted to return the switch you could have just sent it back, we would have credited you for it. No discussion required
. If you wanted to return the switch you could have just sent it back, we would have credited you for it. No discussion required
It was more than 2 years ago.
Typically most places do not allow return of electrical components. Thus I wanted to discuss my issues since this correctly calibrated electrical component read 40 degrees off.
It's my mistake for not realizing I could ship it back unannounced.
I still bought another radiator from the company after that anyway, so it's not like it kept me from continued support of DeWitts.
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OK, I recieved the DeWitts unit today and installed it. I did not drive the car, but ran it in the driveway for 15-20mins. The temp came up very, very slowly and stopped just above the second mark on the gauge. I'm not sure what that temp would be. Maybe 120-130? The IR gun showed 160 on the radiator at the outlet hose, 148 on the thermostat neck and 143 at the new unit reading off the intake. Two of the originals do about the same thing. I don't think it would come up anymore if I was driving it, but maybe I'm wrong. What do you guys think?
Folks will argue with this but I'll tell you what the Sea Ray manufacturer did to fix their recall on the temp sending unit in my 2001 boat reading too high. They install a resistor in the circuit until the gauge read correctly at normal running temperature. True...its a non-linear fix and the accuracy will vary around the resistor's targeted temperature but any inaccuracy hasn't been too dramatic in the boat. I'm quite satisfied with it.
Can't say if it worth trying the same thing on a classic vette tho.