Generator not charging
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 404
Likes: 0
From: Sitka Alaska
Generator not charging
Nice day so I fired up the 61 to take my daughter out for a ride. Noticed right away that the amp guage did not swing over to the + side after starting and while the engine was warming up on the auto choke at about 1500rpm, strange.
Have never had a problem with the charging system. Did add the solid state VR earlier this spring and it has been working like a charm.
Had the battery disconnected recently while adding safety items like a circuit breaker and fuses and a new CD player.
Just checked the battery voltage with my volt meter with the engine running at 1500rpm, 12.47volts and losing! Me thinks the generator has lost its polarity but how do I polarize without screwing up the ss VR?
Also, did a continuity check on all wires from the gernerator to the VR and the ground, all good.
Thanks in advance for any help,
Jerry
Have never had a problem with the charging system. Did add the solid state VR earlier this spring and it has been working like a charm.
Had the battery disconnected recently while adding safety items like a circuit breaker and fuses and a new CD player.
Just checked the battery voltage with my volt meter with the engine running at 1500rpm, 12.47volts and losing! Me thinks the generator has lost its polarity but how do I polarize without screwing up the ss VR?
Also, did a continuity check on all wires from the gernerator to the VR and the ground, all good.
Thanks in advance for any help,
Jerry
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,000
Likes: 659
From: Puget Sound
There is no way that disconnecting the battery will cause a de-polarize problem.
If you have a charging problem the easiest and best way to check output AND rule out the volt. reg. is to disconnect all the wires from the generator, hook a volt meter to the arm. terminal and start the car. You should have between 2-6 volts. Now ground the field terminal and you should get over 15 volts when you rev. the engine. If you do, you have a bad regulator. If you don't, you have a bad generator. Simple as that.
Jim
If you have a charging problem the easiest and best way to check output AND rule out the volt. reg. is to disconnect all the wires from the generator, hook a volt meter to the arm. terminal and start the car. You should have between 2-6 volts. Now ground the field terminal and you should get over 15 volts when you rev. the engine. If you do, you have a bad regulator. If you don't, you have a bad generator. Simple as that.
Jim
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 404
Likes: 0
From: Sitka Alaska
There is no way that disconnecting the battery will cause a de-polarize problem.
If you have a charging problem the easiest and best way to check output AND rule out the volt. reg. is to disconnect all the wires from the generator, hook a volt meter to the arm. terminal and start the car. You should have between 2-6 volts. Now ground the field terminal and you should get over 15 volts when you rev. the engine. If you do, you have a bad regulator. If you don't, you have a bad generator. Simple as that.
Jim
If you have a charging problem the easiest and best way to check output AND rule out the volt. reg. is to disconnect all the wires from the generator, hook a volt meter to the arm. terminal and start the car. You should have between 2-6 volts. Now ground the field terminal and you should get over 15 volts when you rev. the engine. If you do, you have a bad regulator. If you don't, you have a bad generator. Simple as that.
Jim
Thanks for the info,
Jerry
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,000
Likes: 659
From: Puget Sound
Now that is somewhat confusing (to me), if I disconnect all the wires, does that include the ground? Ok so now I connect the volt meter to the arm terminal and look for 2-6 volts. Then I ground the field terminal and look for 15+volts. Hey that does sound easy.......seems I have the solid state mentality and always scared to arc, spark, or run items without a load.
Thanks for the info,
Jerry
Thanks for the info,
Jerry
It doesn't matter about the ground wire, it's purpose is to supply a ground for the V/R. The generator is grounded through its mounting to the engine. Be sure to rev the engine to about 2000 RPM when checking for the 15 volts.
Jim
Race Director
Joined: Mar 2009
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From: Canada's capital
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Is your generator rebuilt or a high miler? As the brushes get to the end of their life they will fail altogether at some point. They are pretty easy to check visually and replace if worn out. Just an idea. good luck.
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
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Army
Now that is somewhat confusing (to me), if I disconnect all the wires, does that include the ground? Ok so now I connect the volt meter to the arm terminal and look for 2-6 volts. Then I ground the field terminal and look for 15+volts. Hey that does sound easy.......seems I have the solid state mentality and always scared to arc, spark, or run items without a load.
Thanks for the info,
Jerry
Thanks for the info,
Jerry
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 404
Likes: 0
From: Sitka Alaska
Ok, I ran 1snake's trouble shooting and found 2.4 volts on the Arm and when I grounded the Field.........whoa, 48+volts until I kicked off the auto choke and got down to 750rpm where I found 16+ volts.....whew, hope I didn't screw up anything
So the generator is good and since I bought a new VR to send to the solid state guy I still had the old VR to put back in, just finished and after polarizing I now have my charging system back..13.87volts at the battery with a fast (1500rpm) idle
Interesting that I can sniff the solid state VR and note a smell I remember from my TV repair days, something fried in there.
Kerrmudgeon, its a rebuilt generator, 043 model. I put the solid state VR in 4/18, 63 miles ago, the fellow that does the circuit board install said he will fix it for free (minus shipping).
Thanks again for the help, 1snake and Frankie the Fink.
Jerry
So the generator is good and since I bought a new VR to send to the solid state guy I still had the old VR to put back in, just finished and after polarizing I now have my charging system back..13.87volts at the battery with a fast (1500rpm) idle
Interesting that I can sniff the solid state VR and note a smell I remember from my TV repair days, something fried in there.
Kerrmudgeon, its a rebuilt generator, 043 model. I put the solid state VR in 4/18, 63 miles ago, the fellow that does the circuit board install said he will fix it for free (minus shipping).
Thanks again for the help, 1snake and Frankie the Fink.
Jerry
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Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 404
Likes: 0
From: Sitka Alaska
Recently installed some safety items, 30amp circuit breaker on the wire from the starter solenoid to the amp guage, 2 amp fuse in the clock circuit, and 20 amp fuse in the cigar lighter circuit........and a CD player (draws 800ma). Before I started these installations the battery was totally disconnected.
The fellow that makes the solid state conversion e-mailed me and said he thinks the CD player may be the reason the ssVR failed.......I don't think so!
Jerry
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 58,061
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Army
That's a good test to spot bad charging components...when a generator 'runs away' due to lack of voltage regulation it can float up to dangerous levels.
My solid state V/R conversion is still running perfectly 20 months after I installed it and I've added a reproduction radio, satellite radio, relays for the headlights, etc. since then.
My solid state V/R conversion is still running perfectly 20 months after I installed it and I've added a reproduction radio, satellite radio, relays for the headlights, etc. since then.
Le Mans Master
Joined: Dec 2007
Posts: 8,000
Likes: 659
From: Puget Sound
Ok, I ran 1snake's trouble shooting and found 2.4 volts on the Arm and when I grounded the Field.........whoa, 48+volts until I kicked off the auto choke and got down to 750rpm where I found 16+ volts.....whew, hope I didn't screw up anything
So the generator is good and since I bought a new VR to send to the solid state guy I still had the old VR to put back in, just finished and after polarizing I now have my charging system back..13.87volts at the battery with a fast (1500rpm) idle
Interesting that I can sniff the solid state VR and note a smell I remember from my TV repair days, something fried in there.
Kerrmudgeon, its a rebuilt generator, 043 model. I put the solid state VR in 4/18, 63 miles ago, the fellow that does the circuit board install said he will fix it for free (minus shipping).
Thanks again for the help, 1snake and Frankie the Fink.
Jerry
So the generator is good and since I bought a new VR to send to the solid state guy I still had the old VR to put back in, just finished and after polarizing I now have my charging system back..13.87volts at the battery with a fast (1500rpm) idle
Interesting that I can sniff the solid state VR and note a smell I remember from my TV repair days, something fried in there.
Kerrmudgeon, its a rebuilt generator, 043 model. I put the solid state VR in 4/18, 63 miles ago, the fellow that does the circuit board install said he will fix it for free (minus shipping).
Thanks again for the help, 1snake and Frankie the Fink.
Jerry
Jim
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
Posts: 58,061
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Army
Glad you got it figured out. Now that it's working correctly, why not leave it alone. My stock V/R has worked flawlessly for 30 years. I see no advantage to change to solid state V/R, especially if they don't last very long. You probably figured this out already but "If it ain't broke, don't fix it".
Jim
Jim
Racer
Joined: Nov 2006
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solid state voltage regulator superior to mechanical
About 15 years ago, after problems with my original regulator (63swc). I bought a cheap solid state from JC whitney (imported) about 15 dollars. Has worked well since. You never can tell in advance. Regards, Abe G
Race Director
Joined: Feb 2004
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From: CT
"I put the solid state VR in 4/18, 63 miles ago"
Jerry, that's at least a couple of trips all around the island, right?
No political corrects around, so why not just go to an alternator, better charging for the type of driving you do.
Jerry, that's at least a couple of trips all around the island, right?
No political corrects around, so why not just go to an alternator, better charging for the type of driving you do.
Thread Starter
Racer
Joined: Aug 2003
Posts: 404
Likes: 0
From: Sitka Alaska
Good advice 1snake, trouble is I'm into this broken solid state VR $168! However even after its repaired I'm thinking of donating it to Frankie the Fink
Hey GCD1962 you are about correct on the mileage thing. Hope you're going to get here this year on a day when its not raining so I can show you around the island in the Corvette
Later..Jerry
Hey GCD1962 you are about correct on the mileage thing. Hope you're going to get here this year on a day when its not raining so I can show you around the island in the Corvette
Later..Jerry
Drifting
Joined: Mar 2002
Posts: 1,478
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From: Bakersfield CA
Team Owner
Joined: Aug 2007
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Army
The voltage regulator has nothing to do with polarization...manufacturer's just like to have you polarize from there because its convenient. Polarization aligns the residual magnetism in the generator itself. Think about it..you temporarily short the BAT terminal (the + side of the battery) to the GEN terminal at the regulator with a jumper...just because its convenient.
By disconnecting the V/R leads and applying battery voltage to wherever the V/R GEN lead was connected to the generator you are doing exactly the same thing....just a little more troublesome but without the V/R in the circuit BUT you eliminate the wiring between the V/R and generator in case there is a wiring problem.
EVERGREEN: Yes pls send me your S/S V/R conversion. I like them so much I ordered a second to have a hot spare and a third won't hurt my feelings either. One of my better mods on the car. I've added a 600W stereo amp since the V/R conversion and everything still works perfectly (two years now). Four other forum members are running the conversion with no problems.
Jim is an exception...when I was a mechanic in the '60s on my Dad's car lot I didn't just work on my own car, I worked on dozens from all manufacturers and mechanical V/R failures and mis-adjustments were common problems.
By disconnecting the V/R leads and applying battery voltage to wherever the V/R GEN lead was connected to the generator you are doing exactly the same thing....just a little more troublesome but without the V/R in the circuit BUT you eliminate the wiring between the V/R and generator in case there is a wiring problem.
EVERGREEN: Yes pls send me your S/S V/R conversion. I like them so much I ordered a second to have a hot spare and a third won't hurt my feelings either. One of my better mods on the car. I've added a 600W stereo amp since the V/R conversion and everything still works perfectly (two years now). Four other forum members are running the conversion with no problems.
Jim is an exception...when I was a mechanic in the '60s on my Dad's car lot I didn't just work on my own car, I worked on dozens from all manufacturers and mechanical V/R failures and mis-adjustments were common problems.
Last edited by Frankie the Fink; Sep 3, 2010 at 11:32 AM.
